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97 GSX LIMITED GREY GHOST FUEL ISSUE

ape1972

ape1972

Active Member
Hello Everyone,
Once again I’m looking for you wisdom…
I have a 97.5 GSX limited (grey ghost) that I’m restoring. I have rebuilt the carbs and brought them up to 98 GSX limited specs. New jets, needle and seat, Etc. All parts used were Mikuni OEM only.
I fired it up and it ran well. Restarted (warm) and continued to run well. Next day i tried to start it up (cold) and it took forever to get it running. After about 5 to 10 minutes of sputtering out it finally started up but was a bit boggy. Eventually it ran normal but the following day, again cold start, would struggle to start. I opened the gas tank (before cold start) and no hiss. Any help and direction would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
Adrian
 
When you were rebuilding the carbs and cleaning them did you spray carb cleaner in the pilot jet orfice? And when you sprayed it in there did you get good flow to the small holes in the carb throat? I’m not sure but I think this is were it gets fuel from at startup,
 
burtshaver2021 said:
When you were rebuilding the carbs and cleaning them did you spray carb cleaner in the pilot jet orfice? And when you sprayed it in there did you get good flow to the small holes in the carb throat? I’m not sure but I think this is were it gets fuel from at startup,
Click to expand...
Yes the carbs were thoroughly cleaned
 
I’m using the green hose (shown in the attached photo) but I just noticed on the car side of the pulse line the hose clamp dangling at the bend. Apparently I never tightened it. Would it be safe to assume this the issue? Lol!
 

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ape1972 said:
I’m using the green hose (shown in the attached photo) but I just noticed on the car side of the pulse line the hose clamp dangling at the bend. Apparently I never tightened it. Would it be safe to assume this the issue? Lol!
Click to expand...
Very well could be, and I would change out that clear line for a good quality black fuel line rated hose for the pulse line. The clear line is usually softer than the black fuel line and it absorbs some of the pulse
 
Hello and thank you for your reply…

It bogs no matter what I try. I typically have to feather the throttle for it not to die out. It won’t run if I gradually throttle it. Seems to come back to normal once I Rev at higher RPM’s. But like I mentioned when cold does the process all over again
 
Sounds like it’s loading up on fuel. Haven’t read through your thread but if you haven’t already rebuild the carbs, set the carbs to factory, test after rebuilding. If you’ve already done all of the above, try turning your low speed screw in 1/8” turn in and see if that makes a difference
 
Hello and thank you for your input. I rebuilt with OEM mikuni kit. New OEM needle and seat. Pop off pressure good!
 
We know pop-off is good but did you pressure test them after final assembly to make sure the needle and seats are not leaking?

Alos have you checked to see if your reeds are damaged or not sealing?
 
Hello and thank and thank you… I have not tested the needles and seats after assembly. How do I test after assembly?

I have not checked the reeds either.
 
Steps are shown here...
mikidymac

Thread 'The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread'

So, I know we keep talking about making a How-To thread on rebuilding carbs and never get around to it so last night I decided to finally get-r-done. This will be a work in progress as there are a lot of pictures and text to upload for this so give me a little time. I also welcome any tips and hints that others might have so we can make this as easy as possible for the first timers.

This will work for any of the Seadoo carbs except for the old round body carbs found on the early models and even the Yamaha's.

First off I am going to assume you have removed the carbs and it might not hurt...
  • Like
 
mikidymac said:
Steps are shown here...
mikidymac

Thread 'The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread'

So, I know we keep talking about making a How-To thread on rebuilding carbs and never get around to it so last night I decided to finally get-r-done. This will be a work in progress as there are a lot of pictures and text to upload for this so give me a little time. I also welcome any tips and hints that others might have so we can make this as easy as possible for the first timers.

This will work for any of the Seadoo carbs except for the old round body carbs found on the early models and even the Yamaha's.

First off I am going to assume you have removed the carbs and it might not hurt...
  • Like
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thank you and i will let you know
 
Could be the accelerator pump tubes in the carb that are clogged. The 99 has them, not sure your model any goo in them will give you a bog on the lower end when you blurp the throttle. You might think they are clean but they could be still clogged.
 
Okay everyone a quick update!
I did the carb pressure test and all was good. I bypassed selector switch and still the same. I have not got to the fuel tank check valve yet.

Something else had came up while I was going through everything. When I purchased this ski it the air intake box was off but I did notice there is a solenoid for the air intake as well as the rav valves. On the air intake solenoid the hoses attach to the air intake box and carbs. However no hoses were attached. Could be causing the hard cold startup issues? Also can I remove the solenoid all together? Thank you all again
 

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You need the solenoid for the raves you don’t need the parts for the airbox from what I have seen.
 
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