96 xp runs rough and wont accelerate until warmed up

[mikemike99578]

Hello! I have a 96 seadoo xp I bought near the end of the season last year, got a good deal but it has been nothing but problems. The first time I took it out it seemed to work ok, the second time it would not accelerate at all, ran very rough, died on the way to the dock and fried a starter trying to restart it. I checked the fuel filter and it was pretty clogged, so I replaced that. The carbs were also gummed up so I rebuilt both of them, and replaced all of the old gray lines with new black. I also pulled the fuel tank and cleaned it out, there was alot of gunk in the bottom. I replaced the oil filter, drained all of the old oil and replaced with new. Installed new plugs also. After doing all of this it would start and run, but runs very rough and will not accelerate at all until it has been running for about 10-15 minutes. After that time you can instantly hear a difference in the engine sound and it will accelerate and run perfect. Its almost like somthing "clicks" over, theres a instant difference in the engine sound from rough to smooth. Sometimes as im using it it will start to act up but it usually only lasts a minute or so. I have heard it could possibly be a rectifier or thermostat? I have also replaced the starter motor, starter solenoid, and vts motor. Its winterized right now but since the season is near I would like to get all of its issues figured out so repairs dont cut in to my ride time lol. This is my first ski so im kind of new to the whole thing. Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Bills86e]

First sign of an engine difficulty is to change the *plugs (BR8ES) and if you still have a
sign, DO NOT ride it. Fix it before a catatrophic event occurs! Do a compression test
clean the raves and check water regulator and retest compression. I have Never seen an older Seadoo that did not need carb work when the engine fatigues. Your factory service manual has all the answers to any questions and pictorals for easy DYI maintenance. Your visual observations and history can help us guide you to get your ski back to a crisp throttle response. Read the Manual, do the cleaning, take out the start & battery then take those to an auto part store and have them Load Test them, usually they do that for free! Bills86e

 

[mikemike99578]

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add that I also replaced the battery and starter motor with new. Both plugs are brand new also, BR8ES. ill have to dig it out of the garage and do a compression test. I figured that the carbs would need fine tuned after being rebuilt, im not sure if thats somthing I should attempt to tackle myself or take it to a mechanic, ive tuned a single carb on a old lawn tractor, but never duals like this has. Im kind of weary about taking it somwhere after I took it when the starter motor burned up, the place was supposed to have replaced it with a new motor, instead got a "rebuilt" one that burned up within two weeks of being used no more than two times, then the place refused to fix the problem. I ended up just ordering a brand new starter motor online and installed it myself. I also removed the two black things on top of the motor and cleaned them and replaced all of the gaskets, I think they were the exhaust valves? cant remember for sure, they had the red rubber piece and a spring inside connected to a flat piece of steel? Not to sound dumb but where/what are the raves and water regulator? lol This thing has deffinately been a learning experience, just wish I could spend half of the time I do fixing it riding it lol.

 

[voodoo]

Well you are on the right track with the black things - those are the rave valves, they open slightly at around 4500 and produce that zing to 65-6800 when all the other fuel/oiling stuff is ready for that, go thu the fuel system and if the lines are grey replace one at a time until those sagging lines are out, you are not done with fuel yet but close - look for the tiny filter screens at the carb inlet and get those out where you are clean them out, any fuel line trash from steel gas cans or other swarf will end up there and block the fuel flow, these must be cleaned every season for peak speed and reliability - while you are in the fuel circuit look at the reserve control and if there is any binding when turning you should remove and open or if you do not feel comfy with this internal repair get a new one for 25bux. Next idea is go to the dock and dip the machine but leave it on the trailer, run it there and observe any fuel/oil/water leaks, many times you can go to the parking lot and fix them - dip again and check it out, you can also check the charging by lifting the throttle just a little to get all the juices flowing - do this test each year and your breakdown time will be down near zero.

 

[mikemike99578]

Thanks voodoo for the reply. I remember those tiny filters when rebuilding the carbs, ill pull those out again and clean them. I started replacing the grey lines but havent done all of them yet. All of the lines going to the carbs are new, but the vent lines are still the old ones. I plan to work on it this weekend. I also was going to pull off the fuel selector and clean that out. I dont think the previous owners did much maintainence on it, the fuel filters and carbs were pretty gummed up, I think it sat for a while before I got it. It did have some water leaks in the cooling lines when I got it, but new stainless hose clamps fixed that. Im hoping that once I get all of its issues ironed out and do regular maintainence it will stay running good.