96 xp bog

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, I think the Canadian dollar is about .90 recently, don't quote me. I think the OP is getting ripped off on those prices, looking in all the wrong places. Go elsewhere, you're bound to find MUCH better prices but will need mail delivery and even so will be considerably less. so agree with 96spxpos on that.

At least check ebay, I know there are places up in Canada that are reasonable as well.

If your fuel float is the type thst soaks up fuel like a sponge, the secret fix for that type is dry it out good then dunk it in hot paraffin wax to seal it. My friend, there are a million ways to skin any rodent.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

You mean like candle wax? Won't the wax get dissolved by the gasoline? Also, when it flakes off, won't it clog the fuel system?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

My idea was the coating would be applied hot, to a porous surface so flaking should not occur. Not sure how porous this float might be so difficult to say how well it might work.

Since an upgraded float version is available, perhaps the OP should purchase a new float. My experience has been satisfactory as a quick fix for old cork fuel tank floats.

 

[dannyual767]

$25 for a carb internal filter ? $10 for a carb base gasket ? Those are ridiculously overpriced!

 

[Mekanix]

Just late update, Im waiting for my local dealer to get the Carb base gaskets at the moment and is there something wrong with my local dealer? they are charging $25.00 a piece for one internal carb filter lol, seems a bit much for a tiny filter. And $10.00 each for a gasket, which is a reasonable price I think. So I read around and to clean the filter just spray carb cleaner in it but immediately wash it off Ill try that first but if anyone has a better way please let me know

Thanks everyone.

If you want parts, cheaper and faster within Canada that compare to the prices the guys in the states can get
Try http://www.winnerscirclecanada.com

Best I've found so far and 2 day shipping


You can download their marine PDF and find just about any parts pretty easy. WSM makes quite a bit of equivalent parts.
Top end gasket kit cost's something like $30 I think which includes the gaskets you need.


But for that price. Jeez get some good gasket material the same thickness and cut your own out. I usually just use two stroke oil and coat the gasket. That way I can remove and reuse it without it sticking to the carb.


The only thing I've noticed about the OEM gaskets is that when you torque the carbs properly, (which feels really high) it tends to cut the loops around the bolt holes which is one reason I don't reuse them. But when troubleshooting I don't torque them down that hard. Just enough to seal properly but not enough that I'm not intending to take them off again. But if they are coming on and off for tuning or troubleshooting I Just set them hand tight. Torquing them gets at least another 3/4 turn.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, and I notice the carb base gaskets I need from SBT are $1.00, great price but the shipping they quote me at $29.25 doh! I typed in my postal code and province and country and the site estimated my shipping at that, but I agree SBT prices are awesome so If I have to make a considerably large parts order the savings would be worth it. when I finish this carb project which im more worried about ill order a new updated float I assume ebay has something. and wow winnercircle catalog is just awesome so many parts its bewildering. ill try tommorow and go over to Napa to see if they sell gasket material that would work. Thanks

Shipping from winnerscircle couldnt be much I imagine since im only 200kms away, but do they really stock a wide variety of parts for 18 year old skis? just curious

 

[Mekanix]

I'm in Nova Scotia. It's 2 day shipping with purolator and cost's $16 but they go by weight.

I just get the part numbers out of the catalog and copy them down and when the price hit's over 100 I call them, give them the numbers and they ship right to my door.
The cost per weight is on the purolator site.

And yeah they stock alot. I can call Monday and have it on Wednesday. So far they've had everything except for Rotary valves and Rave valves. But that's a WSM supply problem not that they wouldn't have it in stock normally.

Just call them and they can tell you right away what's in stock.

The prices are slightly more expensive than you would find on Ebay but the shipping time and cost makes up for it.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Call those SBT guys and give 'em a hard time about charging $25 for putting a couple gaskets in an envelope, that's just insane.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

Yea I thought about calling up SBT about that but I don't want to wait for shipping now and I dont like to give anyone a hard time even though its an outrageous price lol,my local dealer as the parts even though they want $20 for two gaskets I had already put in the order last week so I feel a little obligated to go pick them up, off topic but my local dealer seems nice though I had a question about pressurizing my jet pump after I had changed the cone oil and they let me talk directly to their BRP tech and he said only if the oil was milky, next time ill get some gaskets from winnerscircle motorsports their prices are great as well only want $2 a gasket plus shipping which I should have asked about. got this info from greenhulk forum, did a quick Google search and this post was highlighted first. I think ill follow this advice except ill use a toothbrush as well.

Thanks

"Mikuni Super BN internal filter screen housings can be cleaned with a Q-tip rolled smaller than normal diameter dipped in Acetone. once the bulk of the gunk is out, shoot them or shake them with alcohol to finish. No need to buy new ones at $8 each or whateveer. i've cleaned at least 100 of them in my life."


"if you want a quicker method, take two pill bottles, fill one with acetone, the other with alcohol. shake the filters in the acetone one for about 30 seconds. remove and shake them for 10 seconds in the alcohol. they will come out spic and span. you can only clean at most 4 to 6 filters with this method before the solvents are fully tainted, so i stick with the Q tips cuz you use less solvent and can toss them out. take sabout 3 qtip per filter, give or take, depending on how crapped up they are. i like the kind with the wood stick and cotton on the end. they fit right in there and you can twist them to aggitate the gunk. don't worry, the screen is very robust and will take a beating."

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

A couple things on the jet pump... Pressure check just before filling with oil and don't exceed 10psi if possible, don't want to blow the seals out. Pressurize empty so it's easier to discover a leak.

So if there's no milk does that mean you don't remove the cone? I think it's best to pressure check if the cone was removed else no way of knowing if it leaks.

And, the primary reason for changing the oil is b/c it gets milky, nearly guaranteed milky unless the pump was rebuilt recently, new bearings and seals don't leak much for the first few years.

I find at least some water in mine every time, despite passing empty pressure check. The danger is if all the oil leaks out there's no lubrication for the bearings, a slight bit of water doesn't cause immediate damage, loss of oil can.

To see if the oil is milky, just remove the fill plug and stick a dipstick in there for a sample. If not, no need to change oil IMO.

I've heard acetone will eat the filter, but haven't tried to see for myself. There are a bunch of old ones lying around in my drawer here so I will test this myself and get back to you.

Result: You're good to go with acetone if those are original Mikuni filters, my 2 minute acetone dunk test shows no visible damage on some used Mikuni OEM filters.

So now I know myself, I always avoid exposing plastics to acetone but in this case I can say no damage occurred.

Edit: And avoid exposing the rubber metering diaphragm to acetone, I've accidentally spilled acetone on them before and watched the coating melt off so on these I'm 99.99999% certain acetone will damage them.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

ok great thanks for the tips and test Sportster I cleaned the filters spotless and reassembled carb, been going slow on this project, I have been really busy cleaning hull and replacing lines on the 95 xp. Now, finally time to go pick up get some base gaskets tommorow and see how she runs when I get some time to take here out on the water. I didnt touch the needle and seat, as I think it should be ok since I nevr had any low rpm bogging it would go from idle to full throttle flawlessly so I think its ok. Maybe my jet pump was recently rebuilt My wear ring I measured with feeler gauge I couldnt fit a 0.5mm thickness plate so it is really tight

Thanks everyone

 

[Austrian Rotax]

strange, I think I figured out why I had hard starting, I just realized while I was pondering how could the throttle butterfly on my pto carb be sealed totally closed, yet my mag carb had a milimeter air gap in the plate, and I know that every carb should not have a sealing throttle plate, then as I looked around the carb I finally noticed the idle speed screw is mising! I never even touched the idle speed screw ever since I owned it the ski. so now ill have to see if I can find a substitute and my missing idle screw or order another one, I dont really want to wait on that part any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks


EDIT: nvm im still thinking along the lines of single carb machines like my bikes lol. 2 mins later it occurs to me that only one idle speed screw is needed since carbs are synced by cable lol

 

[Mickirig1]

Home depot has Metric bolts and screws in the drawers in the fastener section. Lowes should too. They will not have the wings on them like the OEM screw. Bet if you search around the area below the carbs the screw is there somewhere. Long enough arms you could search below the engine.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, you need that idle speed adjuster screw and the spring that goes around it so idle speed stays where you set it. Before installing that screw both butterflies should reach closed position simultaneously and I'm sure yours has the turnbuckle linkage for adjusting this butterfly synchronization as they all do.

I guess someone adjusted the turnbuckle to open the one butterfly slightly b/c the idle speed screw had been lost.

An air flow meter can be used while the engine is idling to get them both dead nuts synchronized but I consider that optional.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, only one idle speed screw is used, not 2 of them. Still, if you back the idle speed screw out completely both butterflies should reach full closed position simultaneously. So adjust the turnbuckle to synchronize them.

Pay attention to the normal slight bit of play in the turnbuckle linkage between the butterfly bell cranks while making the turnbuckle adjustment, operate that carbs from the throttle cable bellcrank to get the synchonization correct. If you operate the linkage from the slave carb then the linkage play will throw you off. ie: The spring on the butterfly shaft of the slave carb eliminates the linkage play.

I hope that explanation isn't confusing.....

 

[Austrian Rotax]

Hi guys, been waiting on my parents tow vehicle, parents always extremely busy with work, Im going out Sunday, water a little cool up here in Canada, all boats and skis at the marina were pulled from water two weeks ago. but who cares, ive seen people dive in artic water for a thrill . thanks sportster I think I got it close enough I adjusted the linkagage of the cabs until using a miror eyeballed the butterfly positions until they looked almost identical, it was surprising how when I at first put the linkage on the butterflies were out of sync by a few milimeters. Im not sure I understood everything you said sportster but I did recheck all my adjustments I made until both butterfies moved in sequence and at WOT they looked identicale too with a mirror, I hope thats sufficient, or ill find out when my engine vibrates itself apart lol.


One question is I also installed an inline fuel filter, I got an identical filter to the fram G2, according to the guy over counter it was made to reaplce the G2, paid $4 and its same size and its also transparent. Since its for fuel injected cars, will a little bit of oil premix prevent flow through it? im still going to mix at 100:1 since I believe a little bit of extra lube could never hurt for a 2-stroke unlike a 4-stroke, I did test my oil injectors and they are not clogged or anything and the oil lines are OEM painted line, not good I know but I inspected it throungly and no cracks, ill replace it this winter.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The Fram G2 will stop large particles, some really, really tiny stuff can make it through. So, depending on how much junk and how small it is, you might have good results.

No problem passing pre-mix, the G2 is made to flow a large amount of fuel. You can add more oil if you want to be on the safe side, start with half a fuel tank and if it's fouling plugs from too much oil you can add more fuel for dilution.

I like to see some smoke at low speeds, if you see smoke then there's plenty of oil.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

thanks everyone the ski runs great for the time being, ran 10 mins then I felt too numb to go any longer, water so cold. since compression is only at about (just a $20 comp guage) 136-140 I don't trust this two stroke for any long distances, since I have no idea the history of my motor from the PO, afterall the PO used tc-w3 oil in it, that's enough said I would say for engine maintenance.

Thanks