RESTO 96 Sportster Project

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The guy who has that boat rocks lol
I have change the vinyl white to black this winter and paint my front hood black
But you have done a great job the front hood looks great i found it hard to get it like i want it

Haha you've done an awesome job on that boat. I knew I wanted to go with my current color scheme from the get go and I saw yours and it was a very similar vision. That black vinyl is gonna get hot in the sun! You don't like the white?
 
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The guy who has that boat rocks lol
I have change the vinyl white to black this winter and paint my front hood black
But you have done a great job the front hood looks great i found it hard to get it like i want it

Also, where did you get the red rails? I looked and looked and ended up just going with the black insert. It was only $88. The track is spray painted black, none of the paint came off of it last summer cause it never touched any boats or docks.
 
Decided to make a facebook page for the boat. Going to make a decal of that link for the back of the boat.

facebook.com/warpaintboat

Give it a like!

Here's a screen capture of my decal design thus far. I have an entire 54" x 60" sheet of vinyl to work with so I'm trying to strategically place the decals on it so I can get as many on the sheet as possible. Don't want decal overkill on the boat though. Might design a few decals for the camper, maybe one for the truck. So far got the name of the boat on the trailer decals and designed for sides of the hull. Got links to the tailgate's facebook twitter and instagram pages, as well as a memorial list of some of my favorite Chiefs. If you've ever been to arrowhead stadium there is KC Chief hall of fame members on display inside the stadium. Kind of bringing an element of the stadium design and tying it in to the boat. Those decals will go on the back. I used just the right amount of heat with the heat gun that fortunately some of the old decals on the boat would start to come up in one piece. I tried taking the seadoo stickers off of the trailer... It's a no go. It comes off about 1/16th of an inch at a time. I decided screw it, I'm putting new trailer stickers right over the top of the old ones. If anyone wants to design new trailer decals the size of them on my seadoo trailer is 5ft long by 2.5" tall.

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The white discolors and gets dirty quick and I am a nut cleaning the boat it just never stayed clean and discolored quick. The rub rail I painted with eastwood auto paint and hard clear coat it takes alot to chip or scratch. I also used it to paint the front hood black this winter
 
The white discolors and gets dirty quick and I am a nut cleaning the boat it just never stayed clean and discolored quick. The rub rail I painted with eastwood auto paint and hard clear coat it takes alot to chip or scratch. I also used it to paint the front hood black this winter

Ya thats true white will require regular cleaning thats for sure. I may have to try that eastwood auto paint in the future for sure. If my hood chips or anything I'll try that. I would like to think I prepped it properly and things that it wont but I have my fingers crossed.
 
Just gave the boat a good polish yesterday because it was gorgeous outside. I used 3m finesse it II with a machine polisher. It worked unbelievably well. I know that 3m finesse it II is really expensive. Fortunately my buddy let me use some of his. At the beginning of the day I had a corse, off white, flat boat. By the end of the day I could see myself in the gloss. I added some more decals and I have a few other custom ones I am going to add as soon as I get my vinyl sheet printed. Fortunately a couple of the decals came up and could be moved cause I placed a couple terribly the first try. Once I get those custom decals on I am going to wax it, put the new solas impeller in, send the wiring through the hull for my GPS and it will be ready for the water. It needs a new battery too :(

3M Finesse It II
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...a=X&ei=1KUZVca9CJC4ogTYloGICA&ved=0CG4Q8wIwAQ

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Got my decal sheet back from the printer and put all the decals on. I'm extremely happy with how this boat turned out. Now the excitement is lingering for my performance upgrades. My impeller and wear ring are sitting in the garage ready to be installed. My buddy/mechanic is almost done working on a Nissan Z then I'm next in line. Im anxious to see the difference in planing with weight and hoping for no cavitation. Still have to buy a new battery and wire my GPS. I am started on my camper project too. My flooring is in and my day bed/storage area is built. I am only about a quarter of the way done if that. I have to install my entertainment center, put the window unit in, finish the kitchen/ backsplash, paint everything, there is lots to do. I did just clear my lot and mow it yesterday. Waiting on gravel to come. Going to be a great summer. Here's some boat pics:


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I realized that I was uploading pictures during the thread that you could only see if you were a member. If you want to see the progress pics check out facebook.com/warpaintboat. I really don't feel like resharing all of them. I need to add some to the facebook too there is some missing.
 
Here's some pictures of the "before and after". The stock 90's colors is how it looked when my buddy Brad bought it. He was going with that orange and black theme when I bought it from him. Then as it sits today.









 
Update: So, if you've been following the thread, you know that I bought this boat at the beginning of last summer from my buddy who is a mechanic. He had rebuilt the top end and put a ton of brand new parts in it. It ran and ran all last summer, and I got it to the point I was very happy with how it ran. I just wanted to change the way it looked. I spent probably 100 hours redoing the aesthetics this winter.

My intention ever since getting all that done was to get the new solas impeller and new wear ring installed before I got it back out on the water. Welllllll lets just say I learned a lot about this boat this spring. The fact that I did not winterize properly came back to bite me in the ass. When my buddy and I went to fire the boat up a few weeks ago before we intended to take it to the lake it sounded locked up bad. It sounded like a signal was being sent through the electrical but nothing would turn.

Rewind a couple months back during the end of the winter, the boat was turning just fine. I could turn it by hand, everything was good. I know for a fact that the battery did not have much juice (I don't own a battery charger, big problem), we had it tested the battery later on and it was shot. The problem was, one day late winter, early spring, it was 70 out and we were going to take it to a local lake to run it around since it had not seen the light of day since the end of summer. We tried starting the boat many times without a battery that had enough juice to turn it over, even though I fogged the cylinders at the beginning of the winter, put gas stabilizer in the gas tank, I never ran the boat dry at the end of the summer and got the water out of the lines. The water was pulled through the lines into the cylinders and we never got the boat running. (HUGE problem, I just didn't know it yet)

So recently, we started to troubleshoot since something was definitely wrong. We replaced the solenoid thinking it was an electrical probelm, and those have been known to go bad on these seadoos, was not solenoid. We pulled the plugs and tried to turn it by hand but nothing. We wondered that since we had tried to start it so many times with a battery that didn't have full juice that the starter might have engaged and never disengaged, so we pulled exhaust and pulled starter. Was not starter. Thats when we knew we had a bad problem, could be either something stuck in the jet, or engine was locked up, took apart the top end, and sure enough, water had gotten in the top end and there was surface rust on the pistons and on the cylinder walls. Son of a bitch. On a rust scale of 1-10, 1 being none, 10 being all the way rusted up, the front was probably a 2 and the back was a 4. We shot fogging oil all over the pistons and a lot of it got eaten away pretty quick, we let it set overnight and tried to turn it by hand the next day and still nothing.

After all this mess, yesterday we finally pulled the motor, got it out on the ground, stuck the impeller tool in the back of the crank and shot more fogging oil on the pistons and turned and turned until we finally got it broken free. We fogged the shit out of it and turned and turned by hand until the pistons had scraped the cylinder walls free and it looked like I had a brand new machined top end. The thing turns as easy as a ball bearing now. We got it all put back together, reconnected all the lines and electrical, starter, exhaust, air box, everything else, and battery was dead when we tried to start it. LOL. What a mess, good news is, we got it unlocked.

I'm still praying to the lord in heaven that water did not get in the bottom end. Like I said it turns real easy now, and the largest amount of water that could have gotten in the bottom end was just some of what was in the lines. Hopefully it will run. Moral of the story is I guess pay the money to get your boat winterized by someone who knows what they are doing. I did not do near enough investigation of how to winterize this boat. The beginning of last summer I had a brand new top end and many brand new parts and now I'm crossing my fingers that my bottom end is not shot and I have to break down and get a new $750 motor.

Even though water came through the lines into the motor during the winter when we tried to start it, water still should not have gotten in the cylinders. So I replaced all the rings in the top end, while I was at it I got a new gasket for the exhaust as well.

Like I said, all I did to winterize this boat this season is, the last time I was out with it I pulled the plugs and drove it all the way around the lake. Put the plugs back in, put gas stabilizer in the tank and sprayed some fogging oil in the holes where the spark plugs were. I know for a fact I should have ran it dry for 10-15 seconds to pull the water through the lines, but if you take it to a powersports shop or something what else is done? There is not much to this 2-stroke engine... Is it worth paying $115 to have a shop winterize it? Other than running it dry for a short bit what else did I miss? I'd appreciate the feedback. This is the first time I've ever owned a boat and I'm at the point where I'm hoping I don't have to break down and get a new motor. Ah the horror stories.
 
Damn brother tough luck. Many on here will say replace it anyway, but I say to hell with it, run it till she blows and hope it doesn't throw a rod lol bad advice I know. That rust will lead to needing a new top end soon though more than likely

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Damn brother tough luck. Many on here will say replace it anyway, but I say to hell with it, run it till she blows and hope it doesn't throw a rod lol bad advice I know. That rust will lead to needing a new top end soon though more than likely

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Ya that's what my mechanic buddy said. He said he can't imagine too much water got in it if it was just pulling a small amount from the lines but you never know.

I've read through a ton of your posts looks like you have some nice lake whips :). Do you winterize your own or pay a shop? What did I miss on winterizing? Just running it dry for 10-15 seconds? What else would a shop do besides fogging cylinders and gas stabilizer?
 
I live in Florida so I just run it dry, fog it, and run it every few weeks. But it doesn't get to cold there so

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Ya, sounds like not running it dry was my problem for sure. I'm in KC it gets below freezing but it stays garaged and never got below 55. Hopefully it wont blow up. Fingers are crossed.
 
Last time I updated the thread the state of the boat was in limbo. Had done about 100 hours worth of work redoing the aesthetics this winter and we could not get it started at the beginning of summer. The good news is, the boat was never in freezing conditions this winter. It was in a heated garage the entire time so there was never any block cracks or anything critical like that. The issue I had with it came from trying to start it at the beginning of spring without enough battery juice and water pulled from the lines into the motor (cause I never ran it dry at the end of last summer). The water sat on top of the heads and a small amount of surface rust collected on the pistons and cylinder walls. We had to pull the motor to fog it and free it but by the time we were done we fogged and turned by hand so many times that it looked like it was just machined.

We freed the motor, installed the new impeller and wear ring, changed the plugs, and we've had it out on the lake a TON. This thing is running like a bat out of hell with the new impeller. I never had a speedo on it last summer when I got it, but I bet its 8-10 MPH faster than it ever was before. There is no cavitation at all! This thing planes FAST. It has to be so much easier on the motor. You can just hear and feel the difference. We had 640 lbs in the boat and we planed quick as hell and got up to 38 mph in some choppy water. I am a happy guy. If you want to improve the performance of your seadoo boat, get a new impeller.

Moral of the story is, run it dry for a few seconds to drain the water if not every time you get it out, definitely at the end of the summer.

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