freeman068
New Member
I've checked those 2 wires and my values are good according to manual
96 Sea-Doo XP not getting spark
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freeman068
New Member
Ive been at camp all week but will be home later today. Fedex lost my ignition coil so I'll have to order another. I'll mess around with it though
Saludadoo
Active Member
I check out the signal on the white wire to the coil and looks like it's working.
My Fluke meter does HZ and AC mA so I saw something when cranking on both settings.
I am leaning heavily toward the electrical connections, my ground wire doesn't look that great so I'm making some extra ground cables and fixing and might put a capacitor inline with the battery to help with voltage drop when cranking.
My Fluke meter does HZ and AC mA so I saw something when cranking on both settings.
I am leaning heavily toward the electrical connections, my ground wire doesn't look that great so I'm making some extra ground cables and fixing and might put a capacitor inline with the battery to help with voltage drop when cranking.
artr
Well-Known Member
I also don't understand how you can get the inline spark tester to work when the white wire is disconnected from the coil. The only other thing you say that does not seem right is that you connect the white wire back to the negative terminal of the coil. My ski is remote from my home location and I am recalling from memory and looking at the schematic for your ski. The bottom of the coil has 3 connections, the main post and 2 fastons. The main post is case ground (negative) and has a lot of black wires connected on a bolt through it. One of those black wires goes to one faston at the bottom of the coil which is coil negative. The other faston at the bottom of the coil would be where the white wire goes and that would be coil positive (not coil negative as you state above). Is that how yours is wired?
The only other thing I can tell you is what I observed on my ski while diagnosing no spark problems. I never tried to measure the voltage at the CDI while cranking (except when I found out it dropped completely when I determined the holder relay was faulty). I would usually test it connected directly to the battery while cranking if I suspected a marginal battery. I would notice if the voltage dipped to around 10 volts the ski would crank but not fire. A good battery, or even a marginal one freshly off a charger, will not dip that far while cranking.
The only other thing I can tell you is what I observed on my ski while diagnosing no spark problems. I never tried to measure the voltage at the CDI while cranking (except when I found out it dropped completely when I determined the holder relay was faulty). I would usually test it connected directly to the battery while cranking if I suspected a marginal battery. I would notice if the voltage dipped to around 10 volts the ski would crank but not fire. A good battery, or even a marginal one freshly off a charger, will not dip that far while cranking.
freeman068
New Member
So I have read and been told that 6v coils are opposite. Power goes to negative. I also posted this question in another forum and my answer was to put ground on positive spade. My old coil was set up this way so that's what I did. It will still work the opposite way if my reading is correct. The spark will just flow in reverse and won't run as well
freeman068
New Member
I agree it doesn't make sense for my spark tester to work. I'm not arguing that. But it does work, and I don't know why. I can only imagine I swapped a wire somewhere or I'm getting power running up the ground wire to coil somehow.
freeman068
New Member
Ok so I'm back home. Only the plug towards the rear of the ski lights up, and it's actually when the white wire is disconnected from the coil in general, not just grounded to battery. Getting .24 volts on white wire while cranking. Battery checks out. Still waiting on new coil
artr
Well-Known Member
I don't remember if the fastons on the coil are marked positive and negative, but if they are I would definitely connect the white wire to positive and the black wire to negative (which also connects to the case ground). The coil is the same part number as mine and is a 12 volt coil. The coil takes the pulse from the CDI module and steps it up to a large voltage to cause a spark across the plugs.
If you followed the video, then you already cleaned up all the connecting wires and posts to the coil and tested you have continuity from the coil negative to the battery negative. Pick a large unpainted bolt into the engine or unpainted surface of the engine and check resistance from that to the negative connections at the bottom of the coil. If you have any resistance that is significantly more than the reading you get by just shorting your ohmmeter leads together, then there may be an issue. Also check the resistance from the battery negative to the engine block.
If you followed the video, then you already cleaned up all the connecting wires and posts to the coil and tested you have continuity from the coil negative to the battery negative. Pick a large unpainted bolt into the engine or unpainted surface of the engine and check resistance from that to the negative connections at the bottom of the coil. If you have any resistance that is significantly more than the reading you get by just shorting your ohmmeter leads together, then there may be an issue. Also check the resistance from the battery negative to the engine block.
freeman068
New Member
Swapped it around as you said,l. I have cleaned everything but just to be safe I replaced all the ground wires in the rear box and sanded down any connection that I couldn't replace. Turns over like butter now, super smooth and no hesitation. Rechecked power into and out of CDI and it looks good. About 0.34v at coil on white wire. Battery seems to drop to about 10.8 when cranking. Reconditioning it all night and charging it tomorrow. I'm convinced I got a junk coil so if FedEx ever finds where my new one went I'll update everyone
freeman068
New Member
Also did the other reading you suggested and those were good. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully we figure this out soon.
freeman068
New Member
Ok, update time. New used CDI, new OEM MPEM, new coil, all new wires, new battery, power into CDI, all grounds are good. Cranks great, still no spark. Now when I put the key on the post and wait for a click sound after a few seconds and then press the start button, I get a split second of spark with the first crank. Then I have to wait for that click again before getting another spark. Holder relay was replaced with a used one. Ideas? Bad CDI? Is someone able to test out their CDI and tell me what value they get between white wire and ground? Manual says about 2 mega ohms
Saludadoo
Active Member
Have you pulled the mag cover off to see if the trigger is broke or loose?
I redid grounds got great low to zero resistance, and still no spark also.
I wonder if the kid I bought the ski from hooked the battery up backwards and killed my box
where did you get your used parts?
also getting conflicting info on the 2 boxes in the front, smaller black box on back cover I have see it called and CDI amplifier and I guess the Mpem is the CDI box, because if you look at older units it just has the Mpem and a CDI coil pack
I redid grounds got great low to zero resistance, and still no spark also.
I wonder if the kid I bought the ski from hooked the battery up backwards and killed my box
where did you get your used parts?
also getting conflicting info on the 2 boxes in the front, smaller black box on back cover I have see it called and CDI amplifier and I guess the Mpem is the CDI box, because if you look at older units it just has the Mpem and a CDI coil pack
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freeman068
New Member
Ya I've pulled the cover but I'm gonna pull it again today and really get in there. I've been getting my parts from eBay and a local shop with a bunch of parts skis. Another CDI is on its way. If that doesn't do it then I'm changing the stator and trigger wire.
Saludadoo
Active Member
ordered a complete box with a matched key from ebay 279.00 vs just the CDI for 175.00 hope this fixes my problem.
Did a bit more digging and ohmed the white wire from the CDI to the coil it has high resistance 1.2 ohms.
so I jumpered the white wire around the plug which fixed the high resistance but still no spark, I think it overheated the CDI because I see a small burn color on the white wire at that plug.
what is your price on used CDIs?
Did a bit more digging and ohmed the white wire from the CDI to the coil it has high resistance 1.2 ohms.
so I jumpered the white wire around the plug which fixed the high resistance but still no spark, I think it overheated the CDI because I see a small burn color on the white wire at that plug.
what is your price on used CDIs?
freeman068
New Member
I think I paid 160 for the first one and closer to 200 on the second one. What do you get for resistance between white wire pin and black wire pin on your CDI? No one has been able to get that value to me
freeman068
New Member
Ya, I'm referring to white to black in the other plug. Says 2.2 mega ohms. Both of my CDIs tested at 0 between those 2 pins.
freeman068
New Member
Ok, installed another new CDI and now have spark. The white wire to black wire in the CDI indeed should not be 0. Thanks for the help everyone who commented
freeman068
New Member
Ya, those 2 wires were 2 mega ohms and climbing. I knew as soon as I hooked the battery up wrong that my CDI was probably toast. Didn't expect to buy a bad one as a replacement though. Lucky me the guys is cool with me sending it back.
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