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96 challenger vts problem
- Thread starter Charvet7
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continuing....
I unbolted the Vts from the hull and can't see any other part that will come apart. Is it possible to just thread the end of the metal rod that attaches to the rotule so I can screw the rotule back on and then make an adjustment to compensate? It seems too much to get a whole new cable for a 1/4" of rod broken off with the threads
I unbolted the Vts from the hull and can't see any other part that will come apart. Is it possible to just thread the end of the metal rod that attaches to the rotule so I can screw the rotule back on and then make an adjustment to compensate? It seems too much to get a whole new cable for a 1/4" of rod broken off with the threads
Got it rethreaded but....
So I got the end of the cable rethreaded, but the problem now is the trim is out of adjustment due to the 1" or so I lost. I can connect it, but it won't shoot the bow of the boat out of water nearly as much now on take off. There is no trim adjustment for the 96 challenger?
So I got the end of the cable rethreaded, but the problem now is the trim is out of adjustment due to the 1" or so I lost. I can connect it, but it won't shoot the bow of the boat out of water nearly as much now on take off. There is no trim adjustment for the 96 challenger?
Did you ever work the vts issue out?
I have the same problem. I thought it might be possible to cut a small amount off of the bar and thread it and then get a threaded coupler and small length of threaded bar to get it to the same length as it was. Just locktite it all together.
Any thoughts? I haven't had any luck finding a replacement cable for this....
I have the same problem. I thought it might be possible to cut a small amount off of the bar and thread it and then get a threaded coupler and small length of threaded bar to get it to the same length as it was. Just locktite it all together.
Any thoughts? I haven't had any luck finding a replacement cable for this....
Well I had to get the rod extended to make it work again. So I waffled between a weld job or a mechanical solution.
I went with a mechanical solution. The rotule is threaded with a M5 internal thread for the cable attachment. I used a srew extractor to remove the broken peice of the cable out of it.
Then I went to Mcamster Carr and found a male-female standoff with a 10-32 female thread and a M5 male thread. Stainless steel of course. After determining the length that I would need for the fitting, and grinding a small amount off of the cable rod, I threaded the rod on the cable end with a 10-32 die. Attached the fitting with a bit of locktite and it is now re-assembled and working.
Unfortunately I did not realize that someone had "fixed" this problem before. But what they did was to thread the broken rod with a m5 thread, leaving it short. Then where the cable goes through the transom, there are two notches where the split piece can be positioned. They extended it out using the second notch. Which pulls one of the seals out and can allow water to get into the cable. I will have to get a second standoff, this time a 10-32 male and female to extend the cable long enough to use the original notch again.
Oh well, I am waiting for my new reverse cable anyway.
Hope this helps anyone else trying to fix this.
Tim
I went with a mechanical solution. The rotule is threaded with a M5 internal thread for the cable attachment. I used a srew extractor to remove the broken peice of the cable out of it.
Then I went to Mcamster Carr and found a male-female standoff with a 10-32 female thread and a M5 male thread. Stainless steel of course. After determining the length that I would need for the fitting, and grinding a small amount off of the cable rod, I threaded the rod on the cable end with a 10-32 die. Attached the fitting with a bit of locktite and it is now re-assembled and working.
Unfortunately I did not realize that someone had "fixed" this problem before. But what they did was to thread the broken rod with a m5 thread, leaving it short. Then where the cable goes through the transom, there are two notches where the split piece can be positioned. They extended it out using the second notch. Which pulls one of the seals out and can allow water to get into the cable. I will have to get a second standoff, this time a 10-32 male and female to extend the cable long enough to use the original notch again.
Oh well, I am waiting for my new reverse cable anyway.
Hope this helps anyone else trying to fix this.
Tim
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