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951 Carb Question

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Seadooguy10

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Hey All,

So I know there is a diagram for the 951 carbs but it doesn't show the carb configuration for the carb closest to the PTO. I am wondering, on the side with the gas filter, what is the layout? Is it the rubber o-ring type thing, then the clear plastic piece, then does it go the black film type material or a gasket or neither? Can anyone clear this up for me?

Thanks guys.
 
The PTO Carb does not have the fuel pump so if I remember correctly it just gets the fuel filter and the o-ring to seal the cover. The MAG carb gets all the rubber diaphragm and clear plastic sheet on the fuel pump side.
 
Yep, just the pretzel o-ring is all you want on the fuel feed side of PTO carb, along with the little fuel filter to catch the occasional chunk of junk that should happen along.

Reuse the original 95gr metering springs if they're not goofed up by the guy before you, else make sure you've got the right replacement ones (silver 95gr are correct, wound backward from the other three available weights).

A proper carb rebuild should include new needle/seat minimum, IMO. Maybe new metering diaphragms if old ones are stiff or have holes burned in them from fuel and age. My original diaphragms seemed okay so I reused them.

Any issues in particular, lean hesitation maybe?
 
Thanks for the help guys. I just can't seem to get this ski started. I have literally gone through the whole ski. Took out and cleaned gas and oil tank, cleaned carbs, changed fuel lines, got a new computer for it, new solenoid, and yet I still can't get it to start. Only starts when I spray gas down the carbs. Any other time it just sits there and wears my battery out. Honestly about to give up on it lol it's an 01 GTX btw
 
If she fires with a shot of pre-mix to the carbs then it's not getting fuel to/through the carbs for whatever reason. And yes, there could be several reasons.

One not so obvious reason could be the impulse/pulse hose from the PTO crankcase to fuel pump isn't connected.
Or perhaps there's an air leak in a fuel line somewhere and it's sucking air... The water separator cup o-ring is a very common place for air leaks.

So, you could disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and try pumping fuel from there to confirm the fuel lines are connected and confirm they will actually flow fuel.
 
Yep, just the pretzel o-ring is all you want on the fuel feed side of PTO carb, along with the little fuel filter to catch the occasional chunk of junk that should happen along.

Reuse the original 95gr metering springs if they're not goofed up by the guy before you, else make sure you've got the right replacement ones (silver 95gr are correct, wound backward from the other three available weights).

A proper carb rebuild should include new needle/seat minimum, IMO. Maybe new metering diaphragms if old ones are stiff or have holes burned in them from fuel and age. My original diaphragms seemed okay so I reused them.

Any issues in particular, lean hesitation maybe?

Is this true for all Mikuni carbs on the PTO side? Just the o-ring and not the rubber gasket? I recently rebuilt a set and was puzzled when I pulled the end off the PTO carb and it only had the pretzel gasket.
 
Is this true for all Mikuni carbs on the PTO side? Just the o-ring and not the rubber gasket? I recently rebuilt a set and was puzzled when I pulled the end off the PTO carb and it only had the pretzel gasket.

Yes, that's correct in the case of no fuel pump fitted on the carb. If no pump, you're good as long as the perimeter of the cover is sealed so fuel can't leak out. Fuel coming in from the inlet nipple has an unfettered path to the filter and over to the return nipple as well.

You'll need the diaphragms for the fuel pump valve body and cover.

So for instance, on the boats with remoted fuel pump, only the o-ring or perimeter gasket is necessary.
 
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