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95 speedster takes on water

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Mine is a 96 and it has carbon seals. 1995 was the last year for seal assembles. A sleeve made of aluminum with seals and bearings.
When the bearings stick to the drive shaft. That causes the sleeve to spin with the shaft. The sleeve is attached to the boat with a three
inch piece of hose that fits over the sleeve and a plastic piece molded in the Hull. What happens is, the hose and sleeve spin.
The Plastic part of the boat is the weak link. You can find repair kits for this problem on this site. The parts tab at the top of the Page.
Its called a thru-hull kit. I had this happen to a GTS ski. Its not hard to do the repair Yourself. You will end up removing the Pump and
Shaft. A good time to check out the wear ring and impeller.
What part of Ohio do You live in? Maybe I can lend a hand.
Good luck and keep Us posted.
 
i live about a hour south of Columbus off 23. I just bought the boat and the only thing wrong with it was supposed to be the gas gauge but there is a little more to it than that i guess but i will get it all taken cair of thanks for the help guys. I am going to check the clearance of the prop and ware ring with a feeler gauge today i will keep you all posted and thank again
 
Sweet, someone made up some custom trim tabs for you, the metal things on the back...Nice score!

There's only the better old style bearing carrier on the 95's not the carbon seal type. I'd replace the wearings along with checking the impellor, or calling Dave @impros and get some better props, the stock one kinda suck....
 
IMPROS just redid my impellers and they look amazing! fit perfect in my new pump housings and wear rings.......016 clearance.

and i thought those metal pieces were stock.....mine has them too, same kind.
 
I am going to check the clearence between them and if they and just a hare to much i am going to just replace the wearings and the impellor's on both pumps. Where is the best and cheapest place to get them at?
 
you would save alot by getting the old impellers redone by IMPROS. as long as they are stock seadoo ones. aftermarket ones are usually over 150 easy for new ones. you can get the old ones redone anywhere from 59-89 depending on the work needed done to them. mine were 72 a piece and came out blueprinted and balanced and perfect.

and i have seen the white aftermarket wearrings vs the seadoo stock ones....the stock black wearring is far superior. just my opinion.
 
How long did it take for you to get them back from the time you sent them in? I try to replace everything with oem parts unless i am doing a performance upgrade or the oem part has been changed because of a flaw. but again thanks for the help
 
fyi..He's probably getting slammed now, everyone waiting till now to get stuff finished, better get them there ASAP or buy something new....
 
I got the jet pump out and the wearring has groves all through it but the clearance looks good. I have a new wearing coming for it but i am having problems getting the impeller out. Any hints or tricks to help me get it out. Also there is a video showing how to replace the pump oil well in it it shows that the top two holes should have little o rings or washers in there i want to no if i need them seing how they dont go to anything they just butt up against the back of the boat. Also the impeller dont look so great the edges (not where it goes against the wearring) looks a little bent up. has anyone used a impeller from sbt before. I am still not convinced that is my issue. There is no clearance between the wearring and the impeller but i do not no of anything else that would cause the cativation so bad. It is bad to not just wont plane the boat will not really move when i just use that motor. Is there anything else that could cause it so bad. I am going to replace the wearring and impeller i just still think i will have the issue looking at it now. Thanks for all the help and tips and if anyone can tell me of a video or something showing me how to get that old impeller out i would love you forever.....
 
one more thing if that seal between the pump and the back of the boat was bad would that cause the cavitation?
 
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There is some pics so you guys can tell me what you think of the wearring and impeller Really looking at the wearring there is a lot of grooves in it. Sorry about the pics i took them with the webcam i couldn't find the real camera. and the one of the back of the boat that is the seal i was talking about would that cause it if that leaked.
 
thats what i thought but it is still a pain i feel like something is going to break before it comes loose. Just thought maybe someone had a little trick to get it to come off easier. thanks for all the help though
 
how about anywhere i can get the tool with the shaft end on it. I may be able to get it off with the shaft but i would rather not if i can get the tool for a decent price.
 
When i put it in the lake today the drain in the floor under the drivers seat started leaking water into the floor not out? any ideas. I can add some pics if it will help you see what i am talking about. thanks for all the help

The drain hole directly beneath the driver's seat has a drain tube that leads straight back to the rear of the boat where it will drain water to the OUTSIDE of the boat. However, if the ONE WAY VALVE at the back of the boat is not functioning properly, then water will flow the wrong direction, (from the lake INTO the boat). The valve is called a SCUPPER VALVE and you can find an aftermarket replacement if your valve is bad or leaking. I have a '97 Speedster and it has the same problem.

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I have already got that fixed i am now working on a cavitation issue trying to get the impeller out to replace the wearring. Thanks for the help and great picture though
 
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