any input would be nice, i just boughta 95 speedster, got it for 900 bucks, redid the seats and it looks great. dropped it in the water, it started up, but it seemed to be spitting oil into the water like crazy, and it didnt seem to go past 40mph unless my gauge is wrong, i pulled out the plugs and there was somewhat of a lot of oil on them, and they definatley were not gapped right, i looked online it said to gap to 050 so i got new plugs and put them in. have not taken it to the lake at all yet but plan on it tomorrow. could this be why there was so much oil in the water? also my star board engine seemed to be smoking quite a bit, not sure if its because it hasnt ran much but it does seem to run alright. does anyone have a diagram on where to hook the garden hose up on these engines, i bought the manual for it and it looks very confusing as far as adjusting the oil injection, any pointers would be appreciated. Am i better off taking the oil injection right out of the boat and making it premix? thank you all
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95 speedster problems
- Thread starter bryan13
- Start date
- Status
kcr357
Active Member
My .02 is the seals in the case are bad, or the pump is not adjusted right if it still runs rough after gapping. Yes, most recommend eliminating the oil pump after 5-7 years. Either remove the driveshaft of the pump(you will have to remove the mag cover), or take the injector lines off where they meet the carb and let route em back to the tank. Also check the compression, might as well cut 1/4 off teh end of the spark plug wire where it meets teh boot as well. Start with the easy stuff, and work your way to the difficult stuff.
Gap plugs
Cut plug wires
Compression test
Eliminate oil pump
New seals
Dam 900 bucks, even if both motors need a top end kit, you stole that thing
Gap plugs
Cut plug wires
Compression test
Eliminate oil pump
New seals
Dam 900 bucks, even if both motors need a top end kit, you stole that thing
If I was you, I would do a compression test on the engine, to see what is going on inside.
Here is some information;
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.
Next, I would replace the fuel lines if they are the Gray ones, as they deteriorate from the inside out and clog up the carbs. Then I would clean the carbs paying special attention to the internal fine screen filters. If you careful you won't damage the diaphragms and have to replace them. The Low Speed screw is set at 1 1/2 turns out and the High Speed screw is set at "0". Be sure the carbs are in sync with each other. You shouldn't have to eliminate the oil pump as it the most economical way to use 2 stroke oil. It is a variable injector pump that pumps oil at different rates depending on the rpm. If your in doubt, in the service manual is a way to test it, that is if you have a authentic manual like we have available here on the seadoo forum Library. If you want to premix the ratio is 40:1. In the manual should be a section on how the oil pump is run by the engine. If you want to go this route let us know and I'm sure you'll get detailed info to remove it and run the engine safely. You will foul more spark plugs and use more oil. Let us know how you make out and keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
Here is some information;
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.
Next, I would replace the fuel lines if they are the Gray ones, as they deteriorate from the inside out and clog up the carbs. Then I would clean the carbs paying special attention to the internal fine screen filters. If you careful you won't damage the diaphragms and have to replace them. The Low Speed screw is set at 1 1/2 turns out and the High Speed screw is set at "0". Be sure the carbs are in sync with each other. You shouldn't have to eliminate the oil pump as it the most economical way to use 2 stroke oil. It is a variable injector pump that pumps oil at different rates depending on the rpm. If your in doubt, in the service manual is a way to test it, that is if you have a authentic manual like we have available here on the seadoo forum Library. If you want to premix the ratio is 40:1. In the manual should be a section on how the oil pump is run by the engine. If you want to go this route let us know and I'm sure you'll get detailed info to remove it and run the engine safely. You will foul more spark plugs and use more oil. Let us know how you make out and keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
yeah, so far out of one engine im getting 140 and 150, the other i havent tested yet it seems like the battery needs to be fully charged in order to get the driver side engine to go, or possibly the starter going bad? does anyone know any good ways to mod it so i can use a car battery? or does anyone have a step by step for adjusting the carbs and cleaning them? i really appreciate the help guys, also the ugly purple cover for the steering storage compartment behind the steering wheel, its all faded and ugly purple, anyone have any ideas where i can order a new one or if anyone covered theirs with vinyl and let me know how it turned out?
kcr357
Active Member
Join as a premium member for a month and download the manual, its worth the cash. ( I am a cheap sob and hate spending money, but again, well worth it.) A new console is gonna be $$$$$$$$$ if they are still available. I would consider paint. Take your time. Dont use a car battery, marine batts are deep cycle and made for sitting long periods without going bad. Advance auto can test yours for free and charge it as well.
south texas
New Member
I'm lazy so I took off the carbs and brought them to the dealer. Kits were about 35.00 each and 1 hour labor to rebuild (70.00).. Not too expensive, but after reading around the forum, I should've done them myself... Next time!
Make sure you do the compression test at WOT or you will get unacurate readings.- Status
