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95 speedster carb problem (pic)

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dpod14

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In a previous post I was advised to check my fuel system (one engine would not rev above 3000 rpm) so I pull the carbs and find the rear carb fuel chamber where the needle valve is, dry and also the fuel return line was dry. I get a rebuild kit and when putting it back together I try blowing through the nipple were the return fuel line connects and can't get air to go in either direction, I tried a piece of weed eater line then a piec of wire but still no go. what Is the deal ? shouldn't air move freely here ? see pic. I did have this cover completly off tha carb when I tried this, the only thing different with the pic is the fuel line connecting the two carbs is still connected.
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well, I ran an 1/8th bit through it and opened it, looked like metel shavings rather than goo shavings. Why didn't I find any of this hardened goo any where else in the carbs as the return line is the last place before going back to the fuel tank ? also, the previous owner must have replaced the fuel lines becuase they are black except for the short piece between carbs. I'll have to put it back together and give it a try.
 
Why? Cause you didn't look in the places where it accumulates. If you pulled the fuel bafel out and popped off the bottom it will be there. Black goo, in your Doo.
Carb filter = #22. Use your PO tester after re-assembly to leak test the carb(s)
needle/seat(s) before re-install. Bills86e
 
Thanks for the help Bill. I am confued a bit about the fuel baffle and I have seen other posts that mention a pop of tester, but I don't know what it is ? I had both covers off the carb to replace the diaphragms and spring assembly for needle valve and high speed needle out to replace o-ring and didn't see the goo. the previous owner said he rebuilt the carbs, but by the condition of the orings a diaphragms I could tell that he didn't, maybe he just ckeaned out the goo. what about that pop off tester and fuel baffle ?
 
re-use the stock springs. Then you SHOULD be good. A compression & PO tester is
needed for diagnosing engine health & atmospheric or fuel & air pressure problems. You
should get a shop manual specific to your machine, it answers 99% of questions.
Plenty of Talented folks here that love to discuss any problems to get you back on
the water! Plenty of literature in the how-to tech section also.
 
Because the return fuel line dumps into the top of the enclosed bafel, it has a screen
on the bottom (it unsnaps if you have that out of tank) any routeing debris gets trapped, in the "delivery" fuel route system. This often gets overlooked by amateur
& pro alike.
knowing your carbs and fuel system is clean and flowing easily & properly is very important on old motors. A clean fuel system and carbs will go along way to keep you from needing a new motor premateurly.
 
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