I have a 95 sp that seems to run out of fuel when you throttle it. i have replaced the fuel lines first day i bought it. i found the water fuel separator o ring in the front storage bin so i thought it was leaking air into it and causing fuel shortage. well i was at the lake when i found that so i sealed it with a fat bead of superglue around the cap and it seemed to work at least for a while it acted up again. if you pull the choke out a little it would seem to run ok but act up as soon as you let off the choke. i looked at the water fuel bowl and it is full of fuel, clean filter in it. it will idle good in or out of water but give it gas it dies. the plugs look good not wet or black good brown. i took the fuel line off at the carb and it has a free flow of fuel coming out. anyone have any idea where to look next? oh and i have a new water fuel separator on order. thanks in advance
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
95 sp fuel?
- Thread starter SRUSH
- Start date
- Status
If you changed the fuel lines, you still need to clean the carbs as the previous post says. The gunk form the lines clog the internal filters and it will run like it is. Change the spark plugs too. and gap them properly. Have you done a compression test yet? Here is some information on doing a compression test.
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
Karl
Karl
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
Karl
Karl
compression is good i skimped on cleaning the internal filter as i took it to the lake the very day after i bought it and only had time to change out the lines the night before. i guess i will pull that out tonight ans pull the baffle as well and see if its cruddy too thanks:cheers:
Last edited by a moderator:
The baffle shouldn't have gunk on it from the fuel lines...just anything down stream from the gray fuel lines.
Karl
Karl
You can, and it wouldn't be a bad idea. Remove the clamp and pull it out. If the hoses prevent it from coming out lable them so you don't mix them up. The top is labeled, but its hard to read. There's a strainer on the bottom of the fuel baffle.
Karl
Karl
well i cleaned the carb and internal filter last night and i dont really think it was the problem. it was sure alot harder to get it off than on my gsx 787. when i did those the filters were so cruddy but this was pretty clean so im going to try the baffle screen tonight. and just got my new water separator in today so if it didnt fix it anyone have any other ideas?
If you pulled the carbs apart I hope you used carb cleaner to spray out all the passages in the carb. I have seen members clean them but never blow out the clogged passages.
Karl
Karl
i sure did karl, i used a q tip to scrub she surfaces after i let it soak for an hour in some carb cleaner and i sprayed through all the little ports. now when i got it apart there was a little brown deposits in there on the metal surfaces mostly, no where near the amount of crud(none actually) in the filter that was in my gsx when i cleaned those out just a little brown build up. im thinking my problem lies elsewhere. this carb is such a pain to take off and put back on. but i have it back on just have to re hook the lines and put air box back on. so ill do that tonight and then check the baffle screen if i have the time. thank you.
It had to be in the carb. Sometimes the smallest piece of crap gets stuck and blocks fuel flow. Give us a shout if you still need direction...
Karl
Karl
Well i got bored at work and we were dead so i picked up the ski and brought it in the shop here and finished putting it back together and what ive found now is that it is draining the fuel out of the filter and starving its self out so it has to be the baffle or selector switch right? So if i bypass the selector and it still does it then it has to be the baffle screen right?
timmyboy76
New Member
i'd hit the auto store/motorcycle store, and dump the factory fuel filter/water seperator, and install basic 3 dollar fuel filter. and while at it, bypass the selector switch, and go with "res" line to filter, filter to carb, and cap leave the fuel selector to "res", so it blocks/plugs the "on" line.
OK I PUT A BASIC CLEAR FILTER ON IT AND TOOK THE RES LINE OUT OF THE BAFFLE TO IT AND IT DID FILL RIGHT UP WITH FUEL, BUT IT STILL STALLS AS SOON AS YOU GIVE IT ANY THROTTLE. I AM REALLY STUMPED NOW
IVE GOT FRESH FUEL, NEW FILTER, CLEANED CARB, NEW PLUGS. HIT THE STARTER AND IT FIRES RIGHT UP, TOUCH THE GAS AND IT DIES.
IVE GOT FRESH FUEL, NEW FILTER, CLEANED CARB, NEW PLUGS. HIT THE STARTER AND IT FIRES RIGHT UP, TOUCH THE GAS AND IT DIES.
Last edited by a moderator:
The real test is running it under load on the water... Let us know how it goes.
Karl
Karl
- Status
