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95 Seadoo Idles but won't rev up..... So Frustrated !!!!!!

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HayesGang

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Hello,
I have a 1995 seadoo gtx that i just bought, the old owner told me that last time he took it out on the lake that the engine would turn over but not start up. Since then i have drained the old fuel out of the gas tank, replaced all the old tempo line with new motion pro fuel lines, rebuilt the carbs, replaced the filters, removed and cleaned the fuel selector, cleaned the spark plugs, and now all it wants to do is idle but at soon as I press the throttle it wants to die........ Also thought I would note that the jet ski smokes badly when it idles (White Smoke) Is this normal ? and the plugs are wet (dark grey fluid) normal ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is my first Jet Ski ever.... and have turned to your website for It's vast Info, which is why I replaced the fuel lines, filters and rebuilt the Carbs.... but now I'm stumped
 
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Sounds like its possibly oil fouling or starving for fuel still. Are you still using the oil injection? Have you ran compression test? Also did you replace the internal soft parts? And cleared all passages in the carb while apart? May want to try new plugs to be safe if you've only been cleaning them.
 
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Sounds like its possibly oil fouling or starving for fuel still. Are you still using the oil injection? Have you ran compression test? Also did you replace the internal soft parts? And cleared all passages in the carb while apart? May want to try new plugs to be safe if you've only been cleaning them.

yes i am still using the oil injection, no i have not done a compression test yet, and yes i have replaced all internal soft parts on the carberators, the ski would not run until i rebuilt the carbs, i am going to pick up some new plugs tomorrow....
 
Update

Ok today I purchased new spark plugs, removed the pop off springs that came with the carb kits and reinstalled the old oem springs, and reset the low jet fuel/air mixture screws clockwise until resistance was met the backed them off 1 1/2 turns started it up after priming the fuel system (Hard Start btw) and got her to fire up, adjusted the idle screw until i got the best idle out of the old girl, but i'm still having the same problem she will not rev up, she only wants to die when the throttle is pressed. I did notice that when she is running the 2nd carb appears to be misting out fuel from the top of the carb while the 1st carb is running dry........(not misting fuel out of the top of the carb).

When i was adjusting the low jet air/fuel screw I couldn't help but notice that the hi jet adjustment screw caps were missing on both carbs and that both adjustments were not identical in their positions, thus letting me know that someone has been playing with them.....

:banghead:
 
You should definitely get compression readings, and consider checking RV clearence and timing. Set the carbs to factory specs and as long as your fuel system is clean and flowing correctly, then compression and timing and/or valve clearence would be the next thing to check.
Good luck
 
I have a 1996 XP and had a problem similar to yours. The seadoo would idle for a few seconds and then die. If we even touched the throttle, it would die. Checked everything and couldn't figure out the problem. We looked inside the cylinder only to discover that a rotary gear had broke off and shot up into the MAG cylinder. It completely destroyed the inside of the cylinder. We eventually had to rebuild the top end. So, like Jeffspx said, I would get compression readings and go from there.
 
Ok, well I did a compression test today and cylinder #1 is 133 and #2 is 140. Should I get new cylinder sleeves and rebuild the top end?
 
133 is a bit low but it should run I believe. Once you do get it running, you will need a rebuild eventually. The next thing would be to check RV timing and clearence and the condition I the RV itself. And just a thought but have you checked for spark? You must have it to run at least but is it bright blue? Or does it seem weak? Just for the hell of it since its easy, remove the spark plug boots from the wires by unscrewing the boots off of them and trim the plug wire off just a bit, maybe 1/8" and screw the boots back on and re zip tie. I don't think it'll do much, but it's easy to do so it's worth a shot. Hope you get it going soon. It's so discouraging problems like these.
 
133 is a bit low but it should run I believe. Once you do get it running, you will need a rebuild eventually. The next thing would be to check RV timing and clearence and the condition I the RV itself. And just a thought but have you checked for spark? You must have it to run at least but is it bright blue? Or does it seem weak? Just for the hell of it since its easy, remove the spark plug boots from the wires by unscrewing the boots off of them and trim the plug wire off just a bit, maybe 1/8" and screw the boots back on and re zip tie. I don't think it'll do much, but it's easy to do so it's worth a shot. Hope you get it going soon. It's so discouraging problems like these.


Thanks Jeff I will try that, as far as the RV what am i looking for if it dirty, or bent ? I guess if it's dirty i should remove and clean, and then buy new gaskets or will the old ones work for now till i do the top end rebuild, and should i buy new cylinder sleeves ?

I know that I just asked a ton of questions but please try to answer them all for me, as I will be ordering either a top end rebuild kit or a used or new motor ASAP.....

Thanks
 
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With the RV you will wana check valve clearence, that's done by using a feeler gauge and measuring through the manifold ports while the RV cover is still on. Then you want to check timing, that's done by using a degree wheel. This part a service manual will really help you with and you want to make sure the valve isn't gouged and the same for the engine case and RV cover. As for the gaskets, the carb gaskets are Paper, so if you've had the carbs off recently, and they looked good then, then they should be fine now. As for the intake manifold and RV cover, they using o-rings. As long as they don't look cut or too squished then they should be ok for now just to get it back together. But I woule consider replacing um if you get the motor running and plan to keep riding it for a while. Good luck
 
I was reading this to try n see if i can learn anything because my hx is acting funky as well. Anyways if ya do decide ya want a top end i have a oem cycliner, a like new cylinder n two new seadoo std bore pistons with rings. I been holding them for years so its time to let them go if ya interested
 
When you rebuilt the carbs did you check the 'pop-off' pressure? Put the pump back right? Fuel supply on the right nipple? Hose from one to the other is in the right place and return is on right? Turn all those set screws back to spec.
 
Your rotary valve has a problem. Pull the valve cover off, 4 bolts, and see how much free play you have.
 
I got It running !!!!!!..... It appears that the timing was way off, so I bought me a wheel and reset the timing to 147 TDC and it now idles absolutely perfect and runs like a banshee on the trailer, but when i put it in the water it will only idle, and will not rev up..... sounds like fuel mixture issues....... low jet mixture screw is set to 1 1/2 turns on both carbs, but someone has messed with the hi jet mixture screws as the caps are missing and both screws are set different on each carb.......

What does everyone think?
 
What's it bog when in the water? Or just completely stall? Its a possibility it's the high speed screws.
 
Yea definitely sounds like a fuel starvation issue. To recap you have cleaned/inspected carbs including fuel pump, new or at least clean, not grey tempo fuel lines, cleaned or bypass fuel selector, cleaned filter and o-ring is in place and not pinched, check valve flows to allow air into tank to keep from going into vacuum, tank is clean and pick up is too? After all that then the high speed screws are next to check/adjust.
 
Yea definitely sounds like a fuel starvation issue. To recap you have cleaned/inspected carbs including fuel pump, new or at least clean, not grey tempo fuel lines, cleaned or bypass fuel selector, cleaned filter and o-ring is in place and not pinched, check valve flows to allow air into tank to keep from going into vacuum, tank is clean and pick up is too? After all that then the high speed screws are next to check/adjust.

carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt, fuel tank was cleaned, fuel lines replaced, selector valve cleaned and working correctly, fuel filters replaced, fuel separator oring looks good and filter was cleaned, but i am not sure where the right setting is for the hi jet.......
 
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Looked up the carb specs: Main jet 132.5, pilot jet 75, low speed set to 1 1/4 +-1/4 turn and high speed set to 0 turns. Hope this helps
 
Thanks for the info Jeff, I will turn back the low speed jet to 1 1/4..... but my real question is with the high speed jet..... You say it is set to 0 turns to me that sounds like turn it in all the way until resistance is felt then leave it there...... Is this zero turns ?
 
Correct. That is 0. Like you said just go till resistance is felt. Don't over tighten. You could damage the needle or seat. Do you have any idea what theyre set at now?
 
I can tell you one thing for sure, their not at 0 ....... lol.... I will let you know later today, where they were at when i adjust them.....

Thanks Again
 
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