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95 HX questions

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spx800

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I just recently purchased a 95 HX and I have a few questions.

- There's no oil injection, and there doesn't appear to be an oil tank. What do I do to ensure I don't have any problems when pre-mixing? I know on the 787's when you remove the oil injection you have to create a loop for the rotary valve. What do I check to make sure the oil injection delete was done correctly?

- Is the output shaft in the rear of the ski supposed to slide out and make contact with the carbon seal once the ski is running? There's lots of play between the carbon seal and shaft at the moment.

- I'm in the process of trying to find a 95 manual (I have one for 97-01), are the 97 models the same as the 95's? Can I go by the specs on a 97 hx 720?

- Any special things I should look at when I start working on it? I have to change some grey fuel lines at the moment.

Thanks
 
Same here for the 720's, there has to be a loop. The probably removed the pump and put a block off and hopefully they removed the drive gear that runs off the rotary valve shaft--you;'d have to pull the intake off the RV cover. I'd assume they did it if the block off is on the intake.

Pull the pump, it should move a little, but not enough to create a gap. I just checked mine and all I get is about a 1/16" front to back (barely). You have a problem and need to rip it apart. Try rotating it and see how far it rotates before the shaft actually moves. The rubber coupling could be missing. #23 toward the front of the shock/drive mount. Meaning if you rotate the PTO and the rear drive shaft doesn't move at the same time the coupling is bad----you'll need to rock it back and forth to check for sure. You will catch the drive couplings if you always turn the same direction.If you don't have the alignment tool I'd suggest you get one. You want this drive system to be spot on. As far as the manual, the HX's are all the same, just 97 came with DESS and a fuel gauge I think.


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Number 37 in the diagram above is what I was asking about moving outward when the ski is running. I can pull it by hand. Is it not supposed to move?
 
Do you have a photo of what the oil line routing should look like on this ski without oil injection?

The clear/braided line is what I believe is correct.
 

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If the driveshaft stays stationary and JUST that piece can slide on the shaft then you have to replace the o-ring that is on the shaft. You need the updated C-clip. You will have a major leak and probably cavitation if you leave it like that.

Just to be clear, you should ONLY be able to slide that part towards the pump, not the engine.

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[video=youtube;97qJA8v1MZk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97qJA8v1MZk[/video]
 
Request for diagram X2:banghead:

A block off kit will come with a block off plate and 2 vacuum caps to block off the nipples on the intake manifold.

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If your ski still has the oil reservoir I would leave it, if you have a crank seal that goes south and the engine starts consuming that oil you low oil sensor will alert you. You should know if that light comes on you either have a leak or the engine is consuming the oil since you're pre-mixing. If not just get a line and loop them together. If going that route I would install an inline antifreeze flush kit, so you can make sure you have a way of filling it. Put that just above the MAG housing.

You only need the T that fits


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So I should put a coolant T in that clear braided line? How much oil do I fill it with? Got around to replacing the grey fuel lines tonight. Going to try taking the carbs off and checking them out in the next couple of days. It's kind of strange that the grey lines only deteriorate and turn green when they come in contact with brass.
 
Yes, I would just fill it so it it's close to the ends of the fitting but not all the way to the top. Look thru the tubing, I doesn't look like there is any there now. Keep a close eye on it the first couple of rides.
 
Yah it's empty. Ok, I'll do that tomorrow. Hopefully whoever did this installed the block off plate; I'd like to ride it this weekend and don't think I could get one in time. I guess I'll find out when I take the carbs off. I'll take a picture of the output shaft I was talking about earlier and see if we're talking about the same thing.

Thanks for the help.
 
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I guess its more of a collar that I'm talking about it. See how I can pull it back? Is that normal, or is it supposed to be out all the time?
 

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It should pull back. Keep pulling back until you see a groove cut in the shaft. That groove should have an o ring or preferably the updated c clip. If you have neither that won't work.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
To me it looks like you are either missing the o-ring or the c-clip. You should not be able to push the sleeve all the way forward and touch the carrier seal like your picture shows you doing.
 
I think you're right. I'm not pushing the collar, I'm pulling it. It returns to that position when I let go.
 
Here is the proper distance. Mine also has the heavy duty carbon seal set up from osdparts.com. I can almost guarantee that you still have the o-ring, my 95 had it. Switch over to the c-clip.


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Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
As far as grease, just be careful you can sometimes push the seals out. On my OSD carrier bearing kit they tell you to install the seals backwards so the grease will seep when you pump it. There is a seal on the inside too that you can't see, slow and easy.



Here is the groove you want to see, this is where the clip goes and that stainless steel piece you pull back on will slide over the c clip to hold it in place.

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Excellent! Thanks again. Your hull is much cleaner. This thing needs lots of detailing.

Is there something I could use in place of the C-clip until I can get one in? I'd like to put this in the water this weekend.
 
Excellent! Thanks again. Your hull is much cleaner. This thing needs lots of detailing.

Is there something I could use in place of the C-clip until I can get one in? I'd like to put this in the water this weekend.

Yep, the C-clip. I wouldn't half bake it, you'll sink. Go to your local dealer they should have it in stock.

If you're totally boned out on riding it, the thick plumbers solder would work. The clip is just about .125" (1/8"), plumbers solder is .118". Just cut a piece so it goes end to end and try it. DISCLAIMER: You're on your own, I accept NO responsibility if you sink.
 
Wow, I was thinking I need to do some detailing in there, getting too dirty. Check my HX thread out, see where mine started from.
 
Yep, the C-clip. I wouldn't half bake it, you'll sink. Go to your local dealer they should have it in stock.

If you're totally boned out on riding it, the thick plumbers solder would work. The clip is just about .125" (1/8"), plumbers solder is .118". Just cut a piece so it goes end to end and try it. DISCLAIMER: You're on your own, I accept NO responsibility if you sink.

We don't have a local dealer, which sucks right about now. I might try the solder, but i think it might be too soft... I have to put an order in for a bunch of chit.
 
Nah, the solder should be strong enough, they used a cheap rubber o-ring. It's an interference fit.
 
Well, I took the carbs off and inspected them. They were relatively clean; there wasn't any green gunk in them which is good. The internal filters were starting to get dirty, but they weren't completely plugged yet. Glad I took them off, there were no carb base gaskets, or even loctite 518 on the intake manifold. Does anyone know what jetting should be used for an R&D flame arrestor? It came on the ski, so there isn't a stock air box. The plugs looked O.K, it seems to be running a tad rich.
 
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This thing also has a brass pump and what looks like a skat swirl (won't be 100% sure until I pull the pump). Did the HX come with a brass or plastic pump?
 
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