• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

93 GTS Won't Shut Off

Status
Not open for further replies.
SteveStarr

SteveStarr

Member
Hi everyone - this is my first post but I'm sure it won't be my last. I bought two "vintage" Seadoos on the cheap. One is a '93 GTS and the other is a '94 XP. I am restoring both of them but today's question is about the GTS.

If I'm giving you TMI please tell me. Model: 1993 GTS 5813. No DESS. I got it running in the garage, put it in the lake, and after a little while of stuttering and trying to run on one cylinder it settled in and ran quite well. It has three problems that I can see at this point. 1) It won't shut off if you pull off the lanyard or press the stop button on the steering grip, 2) The fuel gauge doesn't work, and 3) The speedometer doesn't work.

My question today regards the lanyard/stop button issue. I have looked up this issue in the forum and found a couple threads and I also have tried to follow the trouble shooting process in the shop manual. I have wrestled the fuse box from its mooring, opened it, and done some trouble shooting. Here are a few more facts and a couple questions:
  1. The engine won't start unless the lanyard cap is installed. However, once it gets running it won't turn off.
  2. If I check the continuity of the black/yellow wire it has 6.4 ohms resistance when the lanyard switch is engaged and no continuity when the switch is off.
  3. I separated the connector coming from the handlebar stop switch and tested its continuity. It works as it should.
  4. The shop manual says to disconnect the black stop wire inside the electrical box so that I can check continuity between the black wire and the black/yellow wire. I think I see more than one black wire. What is this black wire connected to? Is it one of the wires connected to the solenoid?
  5. There is a dangling black wire in the box that is terminated in a round post connector - as if it were supposed to be connected to the solenoid or rectifier. It enters the box from the middle hole and is accompanied by a red wire that is hooked up. These wires come from the two-wire connector that goes to the speedometer. The two wires on the other side of the connector that go up to the speedo are not the same colors - one is a black/white wire and one is a red/purple wire. Should this black wire be connected to something?
  6. The wiring diagram for a 5813 in the shop manual does not show this model as having a fuel gauge or speedometer. Can you tell me which wiring diagram I should use?

Thanks.
 
That’s one of your grounds. It should be connected with the rest of your grounds in the box. There are 5 I believe.
 
There is a black/yellow wire coming off the MPEM After it comes off the MPEM, it goes to a connector that has another black/white wire that goes to the starter solenoid and a bk/YL wire that connects to one side of the lanyard switch. The other side of the lanyard switch goes to one side of the stop switch then the other side of that comes back into the electrical box an connects to the ground post. The way this works is as long as the MPEM sees a ground on that BK/YL wire, it will keep the ski running. If the lanyard come off or the stop switch is pressed the circuit opens and the MPEM shuts down the engine. The starter solenoid also goes to ground through this same path. So by what you are saying in that the starter does not engage when the lanyard is off but does engage with the lanyard on tells us that the circuit is working properly. I could be wrong, but the only things left would be, that the BK/YL wire coming off the MPEM is connected directly to a ground or unfortunately, the MPEM.
 
Last edited:
Oh, and that ground wire that is disconnected is most likely the cause for the fuel gauge/speedometer not working
 
OK, I hooked up the stray wire and carefully looked at the other wires and here's what happened.
  1. The motor started and ran which is somewhat of an accomplishment. At least I didn't completely screw it up.
  2. The motor still won't stop when pulling the lanyard or pressing the stop button.
  3. The fuel gauge still doesn't work. I don't know about the speedo because this was in the shop.
  4. The grounding post on the solenoid had six wires when I hooked up the black one. The wiring that jjsinaz describes seems to be what I see except that the grounding post had a yellow connector that had no wire going to it. I cannot find any yellow wire or any other wire in the box that is not connected to something. I don't know what was hooked up to this yellow connector.
  5. I noticed that the of the two little holes that are supposed to spit out water in the rear, the port (left) hole just dribbles water. Is this OK? I believe that hose comes from the muffler. The hose looks like it has water in it but it doesn't flow much.
  6. When I was trying to get the box back into position I tore off one of the spark plug connectors. I shoved the wire back into it and the motor seems to run fine. Should I do something more about this?

I hope it's not the MPEM but if so is that something I could tackle? I live in central Washington state (Moses Lake) and my local dealer won't work on Seadoos as that are this old. Does anyone know of a mechanic within a few hours that will work on old Seadoo PWCs?
 
find the black/yellow wire coming off the MPEM that connects to another black yellow wire (should be bullet connector) Start the engine and pull that connection apart. If the engine stops, then you've got a short to ground in the BK/YL wire somewhere. If is does not stop then bad MPEM. Minnetonka4me sells good used tested MPEMs for reasonable prices. PM him if you need one

The black/yellow wire is predominantly black with a yellow stripe on it

Fuel gauge could be either a sunk float or bad F1 fuse in the fuel baffle Do a search for F1 fuse or fuel gauge not working

There isn't always a whole lot of water comes out of those holes at idle running on the hose, but they do get debris caught in them and need cleaned out . Pull the hoses off and blow the holes out with air. pull the fitting off the manifold at the other end and clean it out. Main purpose of these is to show you that water is moving through the cooling system

No big deal on the spark plug boot, but I would suggest pulling both boots off and trimming about 1/4 inch off the wires then screw the boots back on and secure with a small zip tie.
 
Last edited:
OK. It will surely be easier to get that damn fuse box out this time now that I've done it once already. I'll let you know what happens with the BK/YL wire. It will be next week before I can get back to it.

Thanks again.
 
Hi. I'm resurrecting this thread because I got waylaid dealing with a "vintage" pontoon boat that definitely had priority with the wife vs. the PWCs. I'm back to the '93 GTS and I followed jjsinaz's instructions. When I start the motor and disconnect the BK/YL wire the engine keeps running. Sounds like the MPEM.

I'll PM Minnetonka4me about a new MPEM but I just wanted to do a final check with you guys to see if there is any other trouble shooting I should do regarding this problem.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
98 GTS no spark
Replies
0
Views
101
Dochalz
D
R
2003 Seadoo GTI LE No power
Replies
5
Views
430
artr
artr
L
Bad ground?
Replies
6
Views
369
MAL
M
P
1998 gts cdi wiring box help
Replies
6
Views
166
Pittieboss
P
L
No spark
Replies
0
Views
95
Lukerobzz
L
Back
Top