587 has hard time starting when warmed up

[Bills86e]

First note the direction it faces, remove and inspect, clean, or replace it. Air-chuck the lines to be sure they are clear. I use my pop-off tester to test in each direction.

 

[soccerdan90]

Alright. Sorry for Hijacking the thread. Thanks Bill

 

[mattry]

seems to make tons of sense considering my plugs were wet when removed as well as the pressure in the tank screwing with the n/s while sitting for. is there only one valve? also, how would I know if my rotatry valve is bad?

 

[Bills86e]

Mattry, this was discussed in post #7 of this thread.

 

[mattry]

I know how it looks and where it is, my question is how would I know without taking it off if it was good or not. the hard starting could possibly be the bad coil, if not then I would lean toward the r/v. if timing is right, runs and rides great when on and feeling suction where the arrestor is then would that indicate a functional r/v?

 

[Bills86e]

The RV cover is four bolts. But you need to read your Shop manual, I'm out of ink.

 

[mattry]

just installed the new coil,boots and plugs. but I'm not able to take it out today due to the weather... when I took the old plugs out the front plug with the weak spark was wet with oil/gas and the other was dry. does that indicate it wasn't being sparked correctly. also when I started it up for a few seconds a ton of white smoke came out from the exhaust, what does that indicate?

 

[Bills86e]

The smoke means the crankshaft center RV gear cavity seal (probly front) are leaking oil into the lower case.

 

[mattry]

smoking stopped after it ran for about a minute, had it on the trailer running with the new coil for about an hour at idle, I turned it off and on no problems what so ever, decided to take it out. it ran awesome, I was gonna shut it off out on the lake but decided it would be better if I was close to the dock, I shut it off then turned it on again no problem about 6 times, then to really test it i turned it off and basically shook the hell out of it, that's when it became harder to start . it eventual started after 10 seconds of cranking then I did the test ever harder and then it wouldn't start at all after that, just crank. took it to the dealer, within about 3 hours they told me everything around the rv and the place where the mag is are fine... they are stumped as well...

 

[mattry]

so today i figured out if I lift the back end out of the water it easily starts up no problem. would a starter cause something like this? not spinning fast enough to start the engine ? battery is brand new and fully charged..

 

[mattry]

any ideas???:bigear:

 

[Bills86e]

Either the fuel delivery system or carb(s) somewhere is clogged up. Common symptom of "too much air, not enough fuel".

 

[mattry]

called sbt yesterday to order some parts but instead of ordering the guy i was talking to told me to check the POP off once more before going further. I took the carb off, while inspecting I noticed that the lever for the variable oil was not connected to the cable that hooks to the carb, looked a little further and it looks like the spring that pulls back at idle is off the lever arm. is there a way of just putting the spring back on or is there something I have to do to get the issue corrected. probably explains all that smoke and hard starting ..

 

[Bills86e]

OIL PUMP LEVER SPRING
The spring has a curl catch on the mid of the lever. the lever turns from 9 o'clock
and you should feel more pressure as you turn it to 6, then 3 o'clock, even tho
without the spring it will 360*. The oil throttle cable alignment marks at carb idle
is lever at 5:30, just adjust the nut. At 3 o'clock is a lug with the alignment mark
to align the lever and that lug is what the springs lower curl catches under.
Picture link:
http://pwctoday.com/f15/put-my-carb...have-question-about-oil-injection-166490.html

All two strokes tend to collect oil in the bottom of the cases, in the little nooks and crannies that are not subject to the flow of the air/fuel mixture.

Bills86e

 

[mattry]

so basically I don't need to tighten it all the way, just as long as I get a little pull back after release of throttle?... I'm still trying to figure out where this air leak is coming from..

 

[Bills86e]

Yes. When the throttle is at the idle position, the marks should be aligned. There are threaded nuts you adjust
on the cable sheath at the bracket and secure it.

If you pull throttle, the lever moves counter clockwise.

 

[B_PWC]

not sure if this will help but something you will want to check. I had the exact same issue where it would run fine and then would not start again if in the water. I have no idea how this would be related but the ignition. n coil pickup behind the flywheel was really corroded. And another issue I had was the fuel pickup lines in the tank were sucking air and fuel. After cleaning the ignition sensor and the fuel lines it ran great. It would on occasion take about 10 seconds of cranking and a little throttle to start but it at least starts now. Good luck.