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4Tec rebuilding

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spacecwboy

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Bought an 04 RXP with 2 dropped valves and have been working on getting new parts and fixing the damage. Just picked up the block today (had it bored .5mm). Going to start to put it back together tonight, anything that I need to know when I start putting it together?

I got a new head, pistons, stretch bolts, gaskets and a supercharger rebuild. Everything else looked good. I have the shop manual to follow. This is my first time on a rebuild, is there anything I need to know as I am putting it back together? I know to offset the rings on the pistons and to torque everything. Surely it can't be this easy!! :facepalm:
 
spacecwboy said:
Bought an 04 RXP with 2 dropped valves and have been working on getting new parts and fixing the damage. Just picked up the block today (had it bored .5mm). Going to start to put it back together tonight, anything that I need to know when I start putting it together?

I got a new head, pistons, stretch bolts, gaskets and a supercharger rebuild. Everything else looked good. I have the shop manual to follow. This is my first time on a rebuild, is there anything I need to know as I am putting it back together? I know to offset the rings on the pistons and to torque everything. Surely it can't be this easy!! :facepalm:
Click to expand...

make sure you upgrade the valve system.. OEM is notorious for.. well as you know, failing.
 
There is a posting about engine upgrades on this site. I think that the exhaust value oem is hollow, but the 2006.5 are solid. The post comment states that there is a corrosion problem on the shaft. And you are ready mentioned the SC and flywheel bolts. Look it up on the little search window within the 4tec section. I have a 2004 rxp with 64hrs. I spray corrosion protect in the cylinder and through injector ports when I winterize. I also live in a dry climate - 18 to 30 percent humidity, so I have not had a problem yet.
Found the post under head rebuild:
1. SC
2. New Head Bolts etc
3. New Solid Exhaust valves
4. Depending on Engine Time, Timing chain
5. Newer flywheel bolts
That is all I think the post suggest
 
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Bmann is the person to talk too.

He has rebuilt 4tec's up and down.
I think SkiDoo has too.

Give thread some time I'm sure he'll see it and give his $.02.
 
The pistons have a tiny arrow on the top of them that must point at the exhaust port of the head (when installed), as I recall; check the manual to make sure, it's been a few years for me already. Pay attention and get it right the 1st time, I had my case bolted back together before it occurred to me to wonder if the piston's had an orientation to them and dag-nabit I had 1 backwards as luck would have it! Arghhhhhh! :mad:

If the head's exhaust valve stems have the #72 stamped on them then they're hollow sodium-filled.... if you have #75 stamped on them then they're solid and much better. I've read the change over was made sometime in the '06 model year, but '04 thru '05 all came standard with the #72 exhaust stems. Your intake stems can be #72 and still be ok they aren't subjected to nearly as much moisture as the exhaust stems are.

Otherwise sounds like you're on-track guy! Good luck!

- Michael
 
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Also when you get the engine case bolted back together and before turning it upright again, tie a line or wire to the timing chain and anchor it to the outside of the case somewhere.... so if it falls down into the engine case, you can pull it back up again without cracking the case back open. Then thread that same line or wire up thru the timing chain slot in the head and tie it off again somewhere when you're ready to set the head on... once you have this engine bolted together and until you get the timing chain on the timing gear and secured, if it falls down into the case you pretty much have to break it all down again to get it. Total PITA!

Did you buy the timing lock pins for the head and crank, or have you found some scrap steel rods that are the right size? Any round piece of rod will work to lock the cam and crank in the timed positions as long as the rod fits snugly down the hole. I had 2 steel rods from another hobby of mine that were the perfect size already in my tool box. :-)

- Michael
 
So far so good. Got it all back together minus the supercharger

Unfortunately I think it has to come back apart. I found 2 quarter sized washers that are concave like the ones on the supercharger shaft. I have no clue where they go..

Ideas?
 
They probably go on the starter Bendix shaft against the PTO housing

The timing chain guide and chain need to be put on prior to bolting the cases
 
That was it.

One more question... I rebuilt the superchargebut when I check the clutch on it I think it is too tight. The instructions say the clutch should slip around 60 inch lbs. Mine I closer to 80. Is that going to be a problem?
 
spacecwboy said:
That was it.

One more question... I rebuilt the superchargebut when I check the clutch on it I think it is too tight. The instructions say the clutch should slip around 60 inch lbs. Mine I closer to 80. Is that going to be a problem?
Click to expand...

New 64 to 104, two hrs and it should be between 44 to 88.
 
Thanks. Went ahead and finished the reinstall tonight. Think I caught all connections but evidently missed one. I am left holding a 6" pigtail. Two wires white with a blue strips and yellow with a lime green stripe. Cant find an empty plug and can't see anywhere obvious ..


The battery is also dead so I can't try to turn it over either so I don't know if I missed anything else. When I hook it up to a charger I get a seadoo screen with no warnings or anything. I can scroll through hours rpms time etc.. if I bump it to try to start it I get a series of 3 or 4 beeps until I pull the key. Maybe a low voltage alarm?
 
spacecwboy said:
Still no fire with a fresh battery. I get seadoo on the screen and some clicking but the starter never turns over
Click to expand...

Give the battery a stress test. Autoparts stores can do this. Look up starting problems, in this section.
A battery charger with starting boost would be needed to narrow down components.
 
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AircraftDoc said:
Give the battery a stress test. Autoparts stores can do this. Look up starting problems, in this section.
A battery charger with starting boost would be needed to narrow down components.
Click to expand...

Starter solenoid is bad. I can jump it with a screwdriver and get it to turn over but not fire off. Going to work on it again this morning to see what happens but definately need a new solenoid
 
spacecwboy said:
Starter solenoid is bad. I can jump it with a screwdriver and get it to turn over but not fire off. Going to work on it again this morning to see what happens but definately need a new solenoid
Click to expand...

Happened to me too. But it was the battery. When a load is put on a bad battery voltage drops below 10-to 12. Solenoids won't work. And the starter will turn when you jump it, but you will kill it with low amps. Don't recharge the battery, stress test it first.

Doc
 
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