2009 seadoo Speedster 150 high rpm when at idle
- Thread starter mada500
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My thoughts:
1..Your Throttle Body is mechanical, so I would first check there for the adjustments to make sure that it is 100% closed when at idle.
2.. At idle, air is controlled by the idle control valve, which is a passage opened by an electric servo. This servo varies the opening based on temp and other factors to maintain the appropriate idle. If this is seized or has issues, the idle can be affected.
3.. Lastly, the idle is defendant on temp calculations from the intake temp sensor. If this is off, so will the A/F mapping which can affect the idle as well as running performance.
Judging by the delayed start comment, I would expect that will be related here and possibly may point to the idle control valve.
1..Your Throttle Body is mechanical, so I would first check there for the adjustments to make sure that it is 100% closed when at idle.
2.. At idle, air is controlled by the idle control valve, which is a passage opened by an electric servo. This servo varies the opening based on temp and other factors to maintain the appropriate idle. If this is seized or has issues, the idle can be affected.
3.. Lastly, the idle is defendant on temp calculations from the intake temp sensor. If this is off, so will the A/F mapping which can affect the idle as well as running performance.
Judging by the delayed start comment, I would expect that will be related here and possibly may point to the idle control valve.
This is the Idle Control Valve #22
You can pull it out to inspect the metal end of it for corrosion as some have reported that it is all gummed up.
This is what it looks like out
The valve is a motor that basically moves the metal cup out of a socket which will allow air to pass by.
The only test they have in the manual is a resistance check.
Without software there is not a lot you can do other than a check to make sure it is not visibly damaged or corroded.
You can pull it out to inspect the metal end of it for corrosion as some have reported that it is all gummed up.
This is what it looks like out
The valve is a motor that basically moves the metal cup out of a socket which will allow air to pass by.
The only test they have in the manual is a resistance check.
Without software there is not a lot you can do other than a check to make sure it is not visibly damaged or corroded.
Checked ICV and was very clean.
After a few years of slower and slower starts, finally did not start at all this weekend at the end of the day. Just a single click. Put a screwdriver across solenoid and turnedover right away. Assuming this is one of my issues.
I did notice one of the wires fairly loose on the solenoid though.
Just an update and thanks to everyone for input.
After a few years of slower and slower starts, finally did not start at all this weekend at the end of the day. Just a single click. Put a screwdriver across solenoid and turnedover right away. Assuming this is one of my issues.
I did notice one of the wires fairly loose on the solenoid though.
Just an update and thanks to everyone for input.
The Speedster 150 I used to own had the same starting problem you describe. One of the cable connections on the back of the battery cutoff switch on the side wall at the driver's position was loose. All evidence was that it was loose from the factory. Cleaning up the nuts and lug and re-tightening gave perfect starts after that.
Just to follow up, replaced idle control valve. Initially thought it fixed the problem as had a couple of runs with idle correct.
Today, idle is back in the 2300 range. Darn it.
I think the high idle and slow start/turnover are related. When idling correctly, no issue at all starting.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to check throttle?
Today, idle is back in the 2300 range. Darn it.
I think the high idle and slow start/turnover are related. When idling correctly, no issue at all starting.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to check throttle?
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