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2008 gti 155 seadoo wipes out new wear rings

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ZR7000guru

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Hi everybody. New to this forum and having wear ring issues with my seadoo. I can't get them to last for an hour, the impeller just destroys them. I'am 99% positive I have not sucked a rock or debri in cause I have been so careful. When I installed the last 2 rings the impeller clearance was fine and can not get any movement in the bearings. The only thing I noticed is the impeller doesn't spin like a fan blade its just a little stiff in turning. I however can't get any play in the bearings. Are these normally tight turning or do you think these bearings are bad and taking out the ring under load. Ski ran fine for an hour but just with I was wide open checking top end It just blew the ring out, (no warning) , just destroyed it. This happened twice now new rings Has somebody had this problem or could give me a idea what I should do. I 'am going to rebuild the pump bearings, but does anybody think it could be the drive shaft or something else.
 
I would expect it's the installation; are you using shop manual? Are you installing the wear ring screws?

When was the last time your rebuilt the jet pump? I would suggest a rebuild, bearing inspection, and relubrication. Don't forget to order all the parts & tools you need for a rebuild.

Yes the impellers are a little stiff; they should not spin freely like a fan blade.
 
First two times I used the screws. I thought that where the screws where is were the ring stared to crack and desinigrate. The last time a couple days ago I siliconed the ring in thinking the silicone would hold it in place as good or better that screws . I have to mention that these all have been aftermaket rings, with the last 2 not having to put in the freezer. The ski only has 100 hrs on it. After pump is assembled I can not get any play in the impeller, I just can't believe rebuilding the pump would help. May be I will try an OEM wear ring and go back to the screws to secure it. PS I watched a vidio on Youtube and its pretty much an easy task,
 
Remove the driveshaft and check that it's true. Even a slight deflection can cause wear ring issues. Have you ever run over a rope?
 
Just by your description of not having to put ring in freezer, sounds like not much interference and when you went wide open throttle the pressure caused the ring to move and it only has to move a few thousandths of an inch and at 7000 RPM (whatever it is) it doesn't take but a second to do lot's of ring damage. Smartest advice so far is your own, an OEM ring, especially since it sounds like you've had the pump apart already. Occam's razor..... Look it up {;o) Lee
 
I'm going to try an OEM wear ring and rebuild the pump bearings. As for the driveshaft ,I never wrapped up a rope or any other thing in it. It is possible that the previous wear rings had spun and worn down the fit in the housing, that is one of the reasons on the last install I used silicone to secure it in but without installing the four screws. R-u-n2it you may have something there cause when they go out the ski is wide open and sounds like a bomb going off. I really think the bearings are ok cause I cannot get any play in the impeller, but I going to do it anyway. Should I also get a new pump shaft, or just bearings and seals THANKS PS I also thought about installing a stainless wear ring, That impeller can't destroy that thing.
 
First two times I used the screws. I thought that where the screws where is were the ring stared to crack and desinigrate. The last time a couple days ago I siliconed the ring in thinking the silicone would hold it in place as good or better that screws . I have to mention that these all have been aftermaket rings, with the last 2 not having to put in the freezer. The ski only has 100 hrs on it. After pump is assembled I can not get any play in the impeller, I just can't believe rebuilding the pump would help. May be I will try an OEM wear ring and go back to the screws to secure it. PS I watched a vidio on Youtube and its pretty much an easy task,

It's not a matter of it helping; it's a matter of following the maintenance schedule in your shop manual. BRP recommends replacing the front oil seal every 100 hrs. Water inside the jet pump bearing cavity can cause all sorts of problems.

These larger pumps have screws to keep the wear ring from spinning; silicone won't prevent that. Once I install the wear ring, I pre-drill it from the screw side to the minimum thread diameter. What I found was that if I didn't pre-drill, installing the screws would distort the new wear ring and put it in the path of the impeller. The screws serve two functions: 1, to prevent the wear ring from spinning, and (2), to hold it under tension to the inner diameter of the pump housing.
 
Thats some very good advise mkov608. I will follow the manuals instructions, go with OEM ring, change the front oil seal, bearings, and use the four screws. If the ring still doesn't fit real tight does it mean I will need a new housing or could I use the screws along with silcone or some type of glue.
 
Do not use any type of adhesive or glue on a wear ring. A normalized wear ring should not fit inside the pump housing without force; if it does, suspect the pump housing is out of tolerance. If you freeze the new wear ring, it will slide in the pump housing and then expand when it normalizes to ambient temperature.

Use a dial caliper to measure the inner thread diameter of the wear ring screws and pre-drill the wear ring through the jet pump screw holes to the diameter you measured. Use a depth limiter on the drill to make sure you don't drill through the wear ring. Install the screws.

Coat the wear ring with a thin layer of grease before you spin the impeller or start the engine. I've seen the impeller shave a few thousandths off the wear ring the first time the engine is started.

OBTW, if you are going to attempt a pump rebuild, get the tools. Part numbers are listed in the shop manual procedure. You can find the tools on Ebay. You will not be able to perform the procedure correctly without the special tools.
 
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