2007 Rxp Coolant in bilge

[RollinSmoke]

Yesterday I was riding the ski and got an alarm code and overheat light flashing. Got a tow back to the house and found all the coolant in the bilge. It has 60 hours on it and never had a problem. What are some ideas of what it could be. I only have 2 places around to service it and not a big fan of one. The other is going to be weeks before they can get to it. Im thinking head gasket.
Thanks

 

[devonte007]

I have heard that many folks have found loose hose clamps in and around the engine compartment, and I suspect that maybe this is what happened to you. Check all the hoses and clamps to make sure nothing popped off and no leaks. Fill the system back up with coolant and take it for a ride or run it on the hose. As long as you did not continue to run the ski after the overheat alarm sounded, I doubt you did any damage. Hopefully just a hose popped off, fingers crossed it is something simple.

Also, check the oil for any contamination. Any water or coolant in the oil (makes it milky color) would be a tell tale sign of bad head gasket.

Take a peek and let us know what you find.

 

[RollinSmoke]

I did check the oil but from what I have heard the head gasket goes between the combustion chamber and the water passage which then pressurizes the coolant system. I guess i do need to refill it with coolant and run it and see what happens.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Have you started it since being towed? Did you follow the towing procedures as outlined in your owner's manual? There's a risk of getting water in the engine if you don't follow the correct towing procedures as outlined in your owner's manual.

If it was towed correctly, I'd fill the cooling system back up with water (1st), check for leaks then run it on a waterhose on trailer with seat off to look for leaks (limit to 5-10 minutes max, as per owner's manual ok?). Once you figure out where the coolant is escaping from and fix it, you can then drain all the water out and put the antifreeze in (drain plug is in the end of the ride plate). Water is cheaper than antifreeze after all! LOL!

- Michael

 

[RollinSmoke]

Yea, looked at the owners manual to find the hose to block off and the pictures they showed in it looked nothing like what was under the seat of mine. So we towed it at like 3 mph. When i refill the system with water do I need to do anything special. How does the air get out etc. Sorry havent worked on these much.

 

[Michael211_2000]

That's great that you checked the owner's manual and that you towed it nice and slow! Good going! Saved yourself alot of grief there.

When you fill the coolant bottle up and start it air bubbles will work their way up into the bottle and the water level will drop down... keep adding water till it stabilizes. Remember to keep your on flush port run time to no more than 5-10 minutes, the carbon seal slowly heats up when being run dry. Let everything cool down 30 minutes between runs on the flush port.

- Michael

 

[RollinSmoke]

Found the problem.....Guess I need to pull the cowl a little more often but you would think they would use a little better hose clamp or double clamp it. Its stainless but rusted through. Hopefully nothing was hurt. Its such a pain in the ass to pull everything apart to get in there. The rust looks pretty on the shaft too huh?

 

[RollinSmoke]

That's great that you checked the owner's manual and that you towed it nice and slow! Good going! Saved yourself alot of grief there.

When you fill the coolant bottle up and start it air bubbles will work their way up into the bottle and the water level will drop down... keep adding water till it stabilizes. Remember to keep your on flush port run time to no more than 5-10 minutes, the carbon seal slowly heats up when being run dry. Let everything cool down 30 minutes between runs on the flush port.

- Michael

The way I found it is that I tried to fill the bottle and heard it pouring out the bottom. HA

 

[RollinSmoke]

One more thing. I filled the cooling system with water to test everything and ran it on the trailer. Everything seemed fine. Ill know more when i put it back in the water. How do I drain the cooling system to refill it and what antifreeze do i put back in it.
Thanks

 

[Michael211_2000]

There is a hex-head bolt in the center of the back of the ride plate... it looks different than the other bolts, and is right in the center as you look at the jet pump from behind. Remove that bolt and it'll dump the coolant out of the engine.

Glad you found the problem! (Whew!)

Are you running in a saltwater environment? That driveshaft shouldn't be rusted like that! That clamp is stainless steel also, what the heck is eating your metal parts up like that? Yours is newer than mine and mine's driveshaft is clean as a whistle... something doesn't add up. :-(

If you are in a saltewater environment then you haven't been doing the correct preventative maintenance every season. The driveshaft and all metal parts are supposed to be sprayed down every season with an anti-corrosive agent to prevent... yes, corrosion caused by saltwater. Bad mojo man. :-(

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

ps. Go to your local SeaDoo or Yamaha dealership, they sell PWC specific antifreeze ask them for 2 quarts (I think that's the capacity.... might be 3 wouldn't hurt to get 3 quarts I guess). What it's labeled for PWC's in particular I have no idea. It's still the green stuff, I don't know if it's less toxic than what you buy at Walmart or your local auto parts or what really.

Remember there will be air pockets again so fill it up to the top of the bottle initially then check it after running 20 minutes or so you may have to add a little more to get the level just right. Once it stabilizes though, it should stay at the right level.

- Michael

 

[RollinSmoke]

Yea, I found the drain. And yea, It is run in saltwater. Ive never pulled the cowling off on my own. so i have never been able to see down in there. Now i know. Guess i need to spray it all down good while I have it apart.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[Michael211_2000]

I think that boat has sailed already. That corrosion is not light by any means, it ate thru a stainless steel hose clamp already after all... and it's likely even worse inside the pump. All those metal parts stainless steel or not were supposed to be washed and sprayed down every boating season, and the cooling system flushed with fresh water after every use. Your RXP is in really bad shape already I'm sorry to tell you. I cannot begin to imagine what this has done to the electrical components... good luck!

- Michael

 

[RollinSmoke]

Yea....Not everything looks that bad. Its flushed every time it is run. And the only things that have been affected are things really low in the bilge. Its been run in brackish water. Not even full salt like the ocean or anything.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Well, it looks really bad in those pics and you haven't been doing all the maintenance for saltwater use.. even brackish water causes bad corrosion on untreated metal. The pump has 2 zink annoids on it that protect just the pump, they don't really help to protect the driveshaft and other components inside the hull. Do check your other hose clamps for similar corrosion problems though while you're in there, check the fuses and fuse holders also they could be corroding also.

Whoever has been doing the oil changes should have said something to you about corrosion prevention before now. There's a section on it in your owner's manual also I believe, check it out!

Good luck with it.

- Michael