2004 Sportster LE DI pump

[Madmudder]

I was experiencing poor take off so I pulled the pump. I had planned to replace impeller & pump ring. Shaft shows wear and pump oil was very milky. How do you determine if a new pump is necessary ? I realize all hardware needs to be replaced, I just dont want to replace everything to find out pump housing may be the issue and when does a new pump become more economical to replace over all the parts individually?

 

[POPPS]

Stop right there,,,i assume the wear ring is scored,,,replace it,,,if oil is milky,,,replace the front seal at the pump,,,(Remove prop),,snd replace the "O" ring at the cone, post a pic if the prop,,,in most cases they can be cleaned up...you would only need a new pump housing if the thrust washer and or internal bearings gouged the the internal hollow of the housing,,,this mostly occurs if the pump has pure water/no oil in it,,,its rare,,,do not go replacing things that don.'t need it,,,which happens a lot.

 

[Madmudder]

Stop right there,,,i assume the wear ring is scored,,,replace it,,,if oil is milky,,,replace the front seal at the pump,,,(Remove prop),,snd replace the "O" ring at the cone, post a pic if the prop,,,in most cases they can be cleaned up...you would only need a new pump housing if the thrust washer and or internal bearings gouged the the internal hollow of the housing,,,this mostly occurs if the pump has pure water/no oil in it,,,its rare,,,do not go replacing things that don.'t need it,,,which happens a lot.

Thank you for responding Popps, To my surprise the wear ring is in pretty good condition as well as the impeller. My concern is for the bearings & pump shaft then I noticed the broken vein as well. The shaft has a very small difference in diameter where it is discolored, you can also see the milky white residue on the throw back bearing. I have attached photos for further discussion & opinion. Thank you once again for responding & your time.

 

[POPPS]

You shaft is okay,,,that cracked "ear" unfortunately will be trouble,,,it will cavitate at that corner,,,you need a new pump,,,just the pump,,,the prop is okay,,,you have a bit of cavitation burns on that one edge,,,no biggie,,,when you are going to reinstall,,,make sure none of "O" rings on the transom,,,water cooling and bilge,,,have fallen off.
When you are ready to install,,,don't have the venturi on,,,its easier for you to reach in to align the shaft with the prop boot,,,when you are going to install the pump bolts,,,put them in a short 17 mm socket,,,with a 12 inch extension...easier to start the nuts.,,on the venturi do not use a torque wrench,,,the backing nuts are only encased in plastic and will strip out,

 

[Madmudder]

The cavitation burn is on all three blades in the same place. Pumps are no longer available from Seadoo So I am looking at a SBT complete pump and all should be good once again.
Thank you once again Popps for confirming what I suspected it puts my mind at ease even if it is an expensive fix. I think ill replace impellar with a new Solas 15-20 so when we do go out again it will be a noticeable improvement to our last outing.
I did look into a used one and it was $130 cheaper so I think i'll go new so Im not foing this again in the near future.

 

[POPPS]

I remember in the olden days,,,was a novice,,,bought a lovely shiny stainless prop,,,no change,,,the engineers design props so that you can have the best of all 3 worlds,,,1,out of the hole, 2, mid power,,,and of course 3,, WOT propulsion...I would do some research,,,of course in our racing days,,,with very modified motors from stock,,,more hp,,,we had to change the prop or we would cavitate out of the hole on the starting line,,,getting good low end and good top end,,,is not easy,,,costs thousands,,,find someone with your setup,,,and go from there,,,and thus not waste money,,,props are not cheap.