2004 GTX Oil Issue

[tp081234]

Ok, so... Let's start this from the beginning. I bought the ski from a guy who took pretty good care of it. The first time I took it out I got a warning tone and a code of P-1202 after 15 minutes or so of running. Awesome not too bad. I found out that the previous owner changed out the OPS on the back lower side of the motor. So I changed out the one that was on the front. Took the ski out and it happened again. I looked into it more and it said look at the T.O.P.S blow-by valve. I did and it makes the click when you put the key on and everything. Could it be clicking but still malfunctioning? Also, I noticed some oil slicks on my driveway when rinsing out the hull of my ski. I checked the oil and it is between the humps but just on the lower end. Should I check it after it has cooled down a bit and see if it goes back up? Another thing Is, could there be a very common area that would cause a slow oil leak? Like maybe a plug or a gasket that typically goes bad? Thanks in advance!

Tyler

 

[ski-d00]

On the front OSPS, did you plug the connector in backwards. The wire clip should face the block. There is only one terminal in this two terminal connector so make sure they are lined up. It will throw 1202 if installed backwards. Don't know why seadoo used a connector that could be installed backwards.

If TOPS is clicking, normally it is working fine.

There are 2 oil pressure switches, a front and a rear, both known to fail. Below is a copy of something I posted for somebody else that will help explain. This is a known problem...

Yes, I knew from your description that the problem was the rear oil pressure switch and not the front one. Your dealer should have known that as well.

To answer some of your earlier questions. Let me explain further...

The rear oil pressure switch monitors the actually liquid oil pressure of the engine that we are all familiar with in all 4 stroke engines. If you get an OIL warning on your display and the RPMs drop to 2500. It means either your engine has low oil pressure, oil pressure regulator issue, or your rear oil pressure switch has failed. I've changed lots of rear switches and have yet to see an actual oil pump complete failure(normally wear and oil pressure decreases) but it should be checked to make sure the pressure is adequate using a gauge because this is a serious situation. (I have seen someone forget to put oil back in after an oil change and this warning went off).

The front oil pressure switch monitors the air pressure in the lower crankcase and entire sealed oil system. This works in conjunction with the TOPS valve that it is located by and prevents too much pressure from building in the oil system area. Remember, the pistons moving downward also create air pressure on the bottom side of the piston. The failure mode of the front oil pressure switch is a check engine light and limited to 5000 RPMs with a P1202 engine code.

See bold below for the most important test.

P1202 — —
Oil tank
pressure switch
implausible or
blow-by valve
still closed

Possible cause:
Damaged oil pressure switch, blow-by valve failure, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector or damaged ECM pins.
Service action:
Check for 1.27 to 2.47 ohms between terminals.
Check if TOPS is connected to wiring harness.
Check resistance at 0 RPM and above 3500 RPM. At high RPM the resistance should be close to 0 ohm.
Check for 12 volts on pin 1 of the blow-by valve.

 

[ski-d00]

For the oil leak, nothing is really common. However, the one that I see leak the most is the driveshaft oil seal. This is where the driveshaft enters the engine. Check by feeling with your hand in this area. It should be free of any oil.

 

[tp081234]

Well, I know the back one was changed. When I get the tone and light the rpm doesn't change and it's not limited. Does that sound common? Or maybe I don't think it's limited. But either way, I would think it should be limited. When I check for the resistance, do I leave it connected and put pins in from the back side? I know I've read that somewhere