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2004 GTI LE RFI dies as soon as I let go of Start/Stop?!

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Duckhunter136

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Just bought 2 matching 2003 gti le rfi, 110 and 130 hours. One runs fine the other I just installed a new starter as it was out when I bought it. Also compression is 110 in cylinder 1 and 125 in cylinder 2. New Gas and spark plugs, good spark for both cylinders. Ski acts like it’s about to start while holding the start button down then when you let go it stops. About 10% of the time it Starts and runs for maybe 1 Second Then dies. Toward the very end of trying to start it the RPM Gauge will read 550 ish before it dies. No beeps after dying. Does sound a little rough Leaning to fuel injector problem. Has anyone else experienced this issue? These are my first Non carb skis. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
 
The conventional wisdom is that the cylinders should BOTH be about the same compression number....a couple psi difference AT MOST.....you tell us there is a 15 PSI difference between cylinders. That could be concerning.....the next bit of conventional wisdom is to DOUBLE CHECK your compression numbers with another guage (Harbor Freight guages are garbage btw....so don't use them)....you can borrow a good comp guage from an AutoZone store.
 
The conventional wisdom is that the cylinders should BOTH be about the same compression number....a couple psi difference AT MOST.....you tell us there is a 15 PSI difference between cylinders. That could be concerning.....the next bit of conventional wisdom is to DOUBLE CHECK your compression numbers with another guage (Harbor Freight guages are garbage btw....so don't use them)....you can borrow a good comp guage from an AutoZone store.
Just bought it at o’Reillys. Did same test with my father in-laws got a hair below 125 and 110 so about the same. Even with 15 ish different it should still start might just run crappy right?
 
Also don’t know if the seadoo have a priming process but it was bone dry when I got it. But I do hear the fuel pump turn on for 2 ish seconds when you plug the key in
 
At 125 and 110 that engine is done. Below 120 they typically won't have enough compression to start in the water and with 15 psi difference between cylinders you have one piston that is going south.

Perfect compression is 150 psi and 130 is tired and 120 is the end.
 
At 125 and 110 that engine is done. Below 120 they typically won't have enough compression to start in the water and with 15 psi difference between cylinders you have one piston that is going south.

Perfect compression is 150 psi and 130 is tired and 120 is the end.
We bought both skis and the double trailer for 2500 so not to bad. If the engine is done what’s the average rebuild cost. Or would it be best to sell the broken ski and double trailer and just get a single trailer.
 
The easiest and fastest is a swap engine from SBT for $1,000.
I talked to the local seadoo dealership and he said it’s not uncommon for one cylinder to get like that. Something is wrong but not catastrophic And that it’s fuel related. And it still would run. So before I drop 1000 dollars what would be some things I need to check fuel wise before
 
We bought both skis and the double trailer for 2500 so not to bad. If the engine is done what’s the average rebuild cost. Or would it be best to sell the broken ski and double trailer and just get a single trailer.
I've rebuilt a jet ski engine ONCE....only because I was curious and stubborn to do it myself.....from a COST perspective by the time you source all your parts, sealers, any machining (you'll need to bore it oversize), etc., etc., you'll spend near OR MORE than a rebuilt engine.....so, as Miki says....fastest option is to drop a rebuilt into it and get riding.

Only you can decide to ditch the ski and double trailer...but I wouldn't.....no fun riding alone, bring a "friend". :)
 
Sorry....I smell BS....fuel related to cause that much compression loss.....BOGUS. You can turn the FUEL OFF and still crank the engine....so HOW does fuel play into the compression equation......that "dealer" is hooking you in. RUN AWAY!

I talked to the local seadoo dealership and he said it’s not uncommon for one cylinder to get like that. Something is wrong but not catastrophic And that it’s fuel related. And it still would run. So before I drop 1000 dollars what would be some things I need to check fuel wise before
PLEASE remember...we here on this forum have NO FINANCIAL interest in your situation...we offer free advise and MANY responders REALLY REALLY KNOW their stuff....if the forum tells you that your compression is LOW, your cylinder is going south and the engine is on its last leg (or already past it).....you should believe it. Our collective goal is to SAVE you Money, Time and Aggravation...which the dealer is not interested in doing any of.
 
I talked to the local seadoo dealership and he said it’s not uncommon for one cylinder to get like that. Something is wrong but not catastrophic And that it’s fuel related. And it still would run. So before I drop 1000 dollars what would be some things I need to check fuel wise before
There sin't a single word of truth in this statement above.

This is total BS and the "mechanic" doesn't know what he is talking about. Low compression is not a fuel issue and one cylinder being lower is not "common". It will not run fine at those numbers.
 
There sin't a single word of truth in this statement above.

This is total BS and the "mechanic" doesn't know what he is talking about. Low compression is not a fuel issue and one cylinder being lower is not "common". It will not run fine at those numbers.
Next question could an average joe to the engine swap
 
I talked to the local seadoo dealership and he said it’s not uncommon for one cylinder to get like that. Something is wrong but not catastrophic And that it’s fuel related. And it still would run. So before I drop 1000 dollars what would be some things I need to check fuel wise before
If the dealer told you that to fix your engine you should go to AutoZone and go get a "can" of that there "Engine Fixer Juice", that seals all the leaks and restores full engine power and compression...would you do it? GOD, I hope not.....
Think about this logically - the engine has 2 cylinders that run opposed to each other.....REMEMBER from the Karate Kid movies......BALANCE Daniel-san.....the engine likes to be balanced....equal compression on BOTH sides, so each side contributes equally. An engine running LOW compression to start with and 15 psi difference (IF it'll even start/run) is just asking for trouble......
 
Next question could an average joe to the engine swap
YES, of course....BUT, then you start getting into having to do driveshaft alignments, etc......so you'll need to acquire certain tools, etc.....certainly do-able. I did it, and I'm a shade tree mechanic at best. More patience than brains though...most of the time.
 
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