2003 Utopia 205 with Mercury M2 240 EFI 2-stroke won't start

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Looking for a little bit of advice troubleshooting my 2003 Utopia 205 with Mercury M2 240 EFI 2-stroke Sea-doo boat. I have owned the boat for 11 years now and it has been very reliable. It is stored each winter in a heated garage. This year the boat started and idled from launch in no wake zone just fine and then abruptly died and would not restart.

Troubleshooting and work completed so far:
All (3) 20amp fuses, (1) 15amp, and (1) 3amp fuses are in good shape.
Ignition kill switch appears to be working.
I have replaced all (6) Spark plugs. The old ones were a bit fouled, but not too bad. I also pulled one and verified they are firing (getting spark).
I added 15 more gallons of fresh fuel.
I replaced the water separating filter. The old one didn’t appear plugged.
I replaced the fuel filter. The old one didn’t appear blocked.

When turning the key, I can hear the low pressure / lift fuel pump thump and can feel it actuate. The fuel filter leading to this is the one I replaced already.

Pressure at shrader valve on top of VST is at 22psi after/ during cranking. This seems low as I read elsewhere this should be 36psi.

I assume I’ll need to replace a fuel pump next as it still seems as not getting fuel (getting spark, although don’t hear it turning over). Which one should I replace next or any other suggestions?
 
A quick update: I pulled a spark plug again this weekend and could smell some fuel on it. I cranked with one plug out and verified it is definitely getting spark without a problem there. I downloaded the shop manual from this site to see what other advise might be in there for "won't start." I also checked the battery voltage. It was still at 12.4V. I attempted to restart again with unfortunately the same result as previous post. Cranks but engine won't turn over/ start. Should I replace the high pressure fuel pump contained within the VST next? Will I just need the o-ring/ gasket for the VST split line and the new high pressure fuel pump? Anything else or other suggestions on items to check before I remove the VST?
 
On the top of the vst, where the hose rises straight up. Can you disconnect that hose and check the fuel pressure there? This is an attempt to check the regulator. The pressure without the regulator in the circuit could be as high 90psi. Implying that you may not need a pump; but need a regulator instead. Sorry, but regulator is more expensive than a new pump. I spent considerable time looking for a similar item on RockAuto.com. Lots of similar ones but they do not provide any specs (pressure).

If you have a TPS, this would be a good time to check its function.

Sorry, not very familiar with your engine. Merc made several "advancements" between my engine and yours.

Battery voltage- More important than sitting voltage, is CRANKING voltage. The voltage at the battery while cranking. If it drops below 9.5-10.0 your ecm may have issues. Not damaging, just doesn't like to work at that low voltage.
 
I had pretty much the exact same thing happen to me. Did you ever get your boat running again? I was told it was the stator then told the 2002 utopia 205 doesn't have a stator but a ecu computer that tells everything when to start. Ive taking to several big shops and nothing still. So I'm hoping to find my answers here. Been over a year and still dealing with it. Boat drove fine for 13 yrs without a hitch and started one day and not the next. Please let me know what you find on yours for I am about to have my computer check.
 
Oh my GOSH. The SAME thing happened to my 185 to a tee this past Friday and my mechanic said it is the computer board and its $1600 for just the part, not including labor. I am at a loss and not being a "guy" and not mechanically inclined, I had to bring it straight to the shop. Will follow this thread to see what you come up with. Ran like a champ til I went into a no wake zone and just crapped out. Can hear it trying but no turnover. It's very frustrating.
 
Quick update: I ordered a fuel pump but still awaiting the part to arrive. I'll update here once I'm able to complete the next round of troubleshooting.
 
Oh my GOSH. The SAME thing happened to my 185 to a tee this past Friday and my mechanic said it is the computer board and its $1600 for just the part, not including labor. I am at a loss and not being a "guy" and not mechanically inclined, I had to bring it straight to the shop. Will follow this thread to see what you come up with. Ran like a champ til I went into a no wake zone and just crapped out. Can hear it trying but no turnover. It's very frustrating.

Simple check #1-
Is the rubber cap on your emergency kill switch full depressing the center plunger?

#2- on top of the engine, behind the flywheel is a small bracket that holds 2 electric connectors. One of these is six wires. Visual inspect the wires that lead up under the flywheel. Is the insulation solid and intact or crumbly? If crumbly, you probably found the problem. The trigger base needs to be replaced. About $175 + labor.

(The Merc ECU retails for about $1100 new, if you can find one. A racer version is about $900. Used, tested OEM about $750 on ebay.)
 
My 2003 Utopia 205 did the same thing this weekend. I started it in shallow water and suddenly died, thought I got a rock sucked into the impeller. Inspected impeller and didn't see anything, and now when I try to start the engine it gives off a screeching noise but not turning over. I'm assuming if I got a rock stuck in the impeller I would be able to visually see it? So if I don't see anything I could cross the impeller issue off the list of possibilities?

I will also try the two points listed above, thanks. I just bought this boat a couple weeks ago and am new to jet boats so look forward to hearing results from others on their problem. I'm not very mechanically inclined but that might have to change! :) Any other thoughts?
 
Does "turning over" mean cranking or starting (running)?
Screeching noise? Where is it coming from? Possible dry bushings in the starter. Not allowing the starter to spin up fast enough to engage the start gear.
Or- you did suck up a rock. Look up into intake tunnel. Look into the stator from the steering nozzle. It could be in the "cone" of the impeller and not visible from either place. You may have to remove the stator. It does not take a large object to cause issues.
 
It's not doing anything when I turn the key to start, and the screeching noise is best described as the sound when you try to start your car after it's already running, like some kind of grinding noise.

If it's a starter issue, what is the fix for that? Would I have to get a new starter assembly? I've downloaded the Mercury 250 manuals from this site and also looked at parts online (mercruiserparts.com) but not sure what I'd need exactly.

If its the rock issue, I've watched some videos online and looks like I could handle the inspection process that involves.

Thanks for the repy @Tim75! As I've never worked on an engine of any sort your help/advice/patience is very much appreciated.
 
Quick update on the saga: I had troubleshot it to likely a stuck float in the VST not supplying fuel to the injectors. I dropped the boat off at a marina that had quicker access to parts than I've had with ordering online. After waiting a few weeks, for my boat to be looked at, they confirmed a stuck float in the VST. Fixed that issue, but when lake testing the boat it loss power and apparently "jet pump locked up and stopped running. Jet pump full of watery gearlube and the bearings came apart and caused severe damage."
 
Quick update on the saga: I had troubleshot it to likely a stuck float in the VST not supplying fuel to the injectors. I dropped the boat off at a marina that had quicker access to parts than I've had with ordering online. After waiting a few weeks, for my boat to be looked at, they confirmed a stuck float in the VST. Fixed that issue, but when lake testing the boat it loss power and apparently "jet pump locked up and stopped running. Jet pump full of watery gearlube and the bearings came apart and caused severe damage."

Are you referring to the bearings in the stator? Those are relatively easy to replace after the stator is removed. Don't damage the end of the shaft. It is a seal and bearing surface. The bearings are actually bushings that get pulled out and new ones pushed back in. Replace seal also,

If you refer to bearings in the gearbox, Break Out Another Thousand.

I have had the dreaded stuck inlet needle in vst. Drain the vst before storage. That will help.

Which is it?
 
Looking for a little bit of advice troubleshooting my 2003 Utopia 205 with Mercury M2 240 EFI 2-stroke Sea-doo boat. I have owned the boat for 11 years now and it has been very reliable. It is stored each winter in a heated garage. This year the boat started and idled from launch in no wake zone just fine and then abruptly died and would not restart.

Troubleshooting and work completed so far:
All (3) 20amp fuses, (1) 15amp, and (1) 3amp fuses are in good shape.
Ignition kill switch appears to be working.
I have replaced all (6) Spark plugs. The old ones were a bit fouled, but not too bad. I also pulled one and verified they are firing (getting spark).
I added 15 more gallons of fresh fuel.
I replaced the water separating filter. The old one didn’t appear plugged.
I replaced the fuel filter. The old one didn’t appear blocked.

When turning the key, I can hear the low pressure / lift fuel pump thump and can feel it actuate. The fuel filter leading to this is the one I replaced already.

Pressure at shrader valve on top of VST is at 22psi after/ during cranking. This seems low as I read elsewhere this should be 36psi.

I assume I’ll need to replace a fuel pump next as it still seems as not getting fuel (getting spark, although don’t hear it turning over). Which one should I replace next or any other suggestions?

Disconnect the kill switch and see if that fixes the problem. It fixed the near same problem in my 2001 Utopia 210.

Dr. Honda also suggested deactivating the throttle Guardian. My boat doesn't have that apparently.

The kill switch disconnect should be accessible through the drivers helm cup holder opening.
 
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