2002 SeaDoo GTX Di

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Good evening everyone, I’ve just bought a jet ski, 2002 SeaDoo GTX Di. It starts right up and seems to have no problem, but previous owner told me, it would start and run great right away, but as soon as you give it close to max speed/rpm, it would like stall for a second, check engine light will come on, and it will continue to run on low rpm and you won’t be able to pick speed up again. Any idea what this might be, and what should I start looking into ? Thanks!
 
You need to see what codes it's throwing or we are just guessing. You need a code reader like Candoo Pro or take it to a dealer. THe DI skis can be a pain to diagnose.
 
CLEAN the carbs...carbs seem to be the root of all evil on "bogging" problems.....can't hurt to clean them...especially a 2002 machine if you have no history with the machine. All standard problems could also apply too...bad fuel lines, dirty carbs, plugged/blocked fuel filters (in the carbs), etc....
 
CLEAN the carbs...carbs seem to be the root of all evil on "bogging" problems.....can't hurt to clean them...especially a 2002 machine if you have no history with the machine. All standard problems could also apply too...bad fuel lines, dirty carbs, plugged/blocked fuel filters (in the carbs), etc....

There are no carbs, the DI ski is Direct fuel Injected.
 
Could be several things, sounds like limp mode so good chance it's throwing a code. Are you going to work on it yourself during ownership or take it to a shop? If you intend on keeping it and working on it yourself a Candoo will help diagnosing issues tremendously. The shop should have this diagnostic tool or they're wasting your money.
 
There are no carbs, the DI ski is Direct fuel Injected.
When/what year did the switchover to FI happen? Is that true for all SeaDoo models after a certain year? I know my 2017 & 2018 are FI....just curious. My bad....I just assumed carbs were still around in 2002.
 
When/what year did the switchover to FI happen? Is that true for all SeaDoo models after a certain year? I know my 2017 & 2018 are FI....just curious. My bad....I just assumed carbs were still around in 2002.

There was an overlap of several years, 2002 or 03 may have been the last year(s) of carbs.
 
The RFI came out in 1998 and the DI in 2000. Carbs were done in 2006. 2005 Still had the carbed 720 in the GTI.
 
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I took the ski out on the water today to see what’s actually going on, and I recorded a video. As I said it starts right up without a problem, run great on base throttle, as soon as I try to add more power, engine starts revving and like skipping, and the only thing I can think of is not enough fuel being pumped when I’m trying to accelerate ?
Sorry for bad quality but if you turn up the sound you should be able to hear it. Please let me know what you think and thanks everyone once again!


 
Sorry for forgetting all the above posts but have you checked fuel pressure under those conditions? Does/can it report any codes, some skis will?

It sounds like it's running out of fuel to me, just going by the sound but I also wonder if it's pulling air into the jet pump impeller. Still does this completely in water off trailer?

Watched it again, I'll go with a fuel system issue.
 
Yeah i was completely riding it on water, I’m thinking clogged direct fuel injectors but would like to hear mikidymac opinion
 
Try resetting your maintenance light just in case it’s a maintenance reminder. Not that this is going to fix your problem but it can help in the troubleshooting of it. The maintenance light should not come on for a fuel pressure issue from what I’ve read. You should definitely change your in-line fuel filter and the two filters inside the fuel tank. The two filters inside the tank -one of them is on The bottom of the fuel module and the other one is on the bottom of the pump itself and you have to pull the pump out of the module to access it. Even if you do find the problem you should still do the fuel filter maintenance as described. And as previously mentioned the candoo pro is a very helpful diagnostic tool. It is expensive about 400 bucks but who wants to wait a couple weeks to get in at your local dealer if you have one. One of the things that is a common problem on DI skis is the voltage regulator/rectifier. And easy way to test it is to unplug the connector for the regulator/rectifier and take your ski out and run it and see if the problem goes away. If it does then the regulator/rectifier is your problem. Dont run it too long because it will drain your battery. If that is the case only purchase a OEM regulator/rectifier. I know it is very tempting to purchase the cheapo regulator/rectifiers on eBay but don’t do it you will be totally wasting your money.
JIM
 
You might be thinking “aaaah can a regulator/rectifier make my ski miss and carry-on” - yes it can. It may not fix your problem but it costs nothing and is easy to do.
 
I’ve read on a different forum in foreign country that a guy had same problem and he had to replace the throttle position sensor. Any comments ?
 
I personally have not had an issue with that however I read a couple threads on people who did have issues with Tps. There is a way of testing the TPS it’s in the manual. You can download the manual for free at “seadoomanuals.net”.
Some people have had luck with sending their fuel injectors out to be cleaned a place that is recommended by number of people on the forum here is “south bay fuel injectors”. You should also have a way of checking your fuel pressure it’s very important on a DI ski.. personally I would start with the easiest and cheapest test and that is unplug your regulator rectifier like I previously mentioned. And take it from there
 
Start by double checking your compression gauge, it may not be correct. There's a schraeder valve in the hose, it should be on the end that threads into the cylinder head and not on the gauge end. There are some new compression gauges out there that are configured incorrectly.

And the gauge head itself may be out of calibration, this happens if they are dropped on the ground.

If you confirm it's really 80psi both, that's very low as you know. Remove the RAVE valves and have a look at the piston skirts and rings to see if they look damaged or have carbon on them. Some Evinrude engine tune solvent soaking overnight might loosen some of that up and restore some lost compression. Nothing to loose except the cost of the product although it's unlikely to help a worn engine appreciably.
 
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