-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
2002 GTX-DI wont run past 25 mph.
- Thread starter ronks001
- Start date
- Status
El Toro 33809
Well-Known Member
Is it getting full RPM's or not revving out?
Last edited by a moderator:
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
yes, more info needed... any recent upgrades? i've read in a few manuals that limp mode keeps it to about 3000-3500 rpms for safety...and i've heard that if the motor starts to overheat, it'll run in limp mode as well..
Is there any water in the hull? (meaning, have you sprung a leak anywhere?)
yes i would check your intake grate, possibly even take it off...
I've had "sargassum" stuck deep in there around my driveshaft and impeller, where at first i just stuck my hand in the grate, removed what i could, then tried riding again, same thing...
I dug my hand deeper in, then i felt it...its a form of seagrass/seaweed, but it is unbeleivably strong, like fishing string...it was wrapped around my driveshaft/impeller about 15-20 times...
Not saying thats your issue, but you MAY wanna check that out
DooWacka
Active Member
As already said, it is important to find out if you are getting rpms and only 25 mph (jet pump problems), or not getting rpms (limp or other issues). If you are not getting the rpms (revs), and it is not in limp mode, then it could be a piston problem. When a piston gets to hot and melts somewhat, there can be a hole, or folded or broken or mangled rings. A cylinder compression test would show this. Or, you can remove the RAVEs and look into the ports to inspect the sides of the pistons while slowly rotating the PTO. I have had this happen twice, and the Doo will run basically on one cylinder.
I cleaned the Rave and sparkplugs yesterday then tested the ski again and it's still doing the same thing, the RPM goes up to 4600 only and when you trying to start it its having a hard time starting, you have to press the start button and hold it for about to 5 seconds and at least 3x before it will start and when you press the gas while starting it will die right away. I tried the reverse and the RPM goes all the way to almost 6000 RPM, anybody have an idea on wahts wrong with the ski? thanks
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
you need to do a compression check..did you do that? it NEEDS to be done..
You didnt mention if you checked the intake grate or driveshaft/impeller assembly for debris, especially seaweed wrapped around the impeller
I had a similar issue where it was hard to start, and even when i nailed it on the water, i could barely get onto plane..
I wound up either cutting the plug wires back a little bit then replacing the boots and ziptie-ing them tight, or i had a spare set of wires at home and i changed them...
I'm not sure what i did to fix it that time, it was one or the other or both, and it fixed my problem, ran like a champ after that...
post results and get back to us..
also, as mentioned a few times already, your motor itself can be shot, so you can be wasting all this time trying to troubleshoot, when you can find out right away with a compression test
have you rebuilt your carbs lately? with GENUINE Mikuni kits?
You didnt mention if you checked the intake grate or driveshaft/impeller assembly for debris, especially seaweed wrapped around the impeller
I had a similar issue where it was hard to start, and even when i nailed it on the water, i could barely get onto plane..
I wound up either cutting the plug wires back a little bit then replacing the boots and ziptie-ing them tight, or i had a spare set of wires at home and i changed them...
I'm not sure what i did to fix it that time, it was one or the other or both, and it fixed my problem, ran like a champ after that...
post results and get back to us..
also, as mentioned a few times already, your motor itself can be shot, so you can be wasting all this time trying to troubleshoot, when you can find out right away with a compression test
have you rebuilt your carbs lately? with GENUINE Mikuni kits?
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
you need to go to autozone, advanced auto, etc..and get a compression test gauge..it will come with adapters to fit into your spark plug hole...
then look on this forum for threads containing "compression test", and you'll find all the info you need..
i did mine the other day, but i dont know if your 2002 is a 4tec or two stroke, so i dont wanna give you the wrong info...but, on mine i had the motor cold..( i think you can do it warm or cold on a 2 stroke...4 stroke i think its gotta be warm) took BOTH plugs out and grounded them to the posts...connect gauge, set to 0 by releasing pressure valve, then open the throttle and cranked it over until the gauge stopped...then did the same thing with the other cylinder...as i said, like on a 4tec, i dont know if you gotta keep the throttle open or not, but thats how i did mine...good luck..
oh yea, gauge was $25.99
then look on this forum for threads containing "compression test", and you'll find all the info you need..
i did mine the other day, but i dont know if your 2002 is a 4tec or two stroke, so i dont wanna give you the wrong info...but, on mine i had the motor cold..( i think you can do it warm or cold on a 2 stroke...4 stroke i think its gotta be warm) took BOTH plugs out and grounded them to the posts...connect gauge, set to 0 by releasing pressure valve, then open the throttle and cranked it over until the gauge stopped...then did the same thing with the other cylinder...as i said, like on a 4tec, i dont know if you gotta keep the throttle open or not, but thats how i did mine...good luck..
oh yea, gauge was $25.99
DooWacka
Active Member
You can usually borrow a gauge free from Advance Auto, Autozone, O'Reily, etc..
You can buy a basic compression gauge package at Harbor Freight for under $10.
On your DI, hold the throttle wide open before and while running the starter so the injectors won't be injecting any fuel. There will be beeping, just to verify the unit is in "Drowned mode".
You can buy a basic compression gauge package at Harbor Freight for under $10.
On your DI, hold the throttle wide open before and while running the starter so the injectors won't be injecting any fuel. There will be beeping, just to verify the unit is in "Drowned mode".
Here's what i did so far, I remove impeller housing and noticed that the WEAR RING and IMPELLER are in bad condition especially the WEAR RING. Is this enough reason for my ski to loose RPM and Speed while on the water (25 MPH and 4600 RPM).
I saw on different post that it could be a bad RECTIFIER, since my battery was drain to no charge at all while installed.
I fully charged the battery before we took it out, and it was running good (48 MPH top speed for my ski and 6500 RPM) for about 20 min and after that it start bugging or hesitation when pressing the throttle. I let it sit for about 10 min and it was having a hard time starting. You literally have to press an hold the start button for about 10 seconds and sometimes you have to do it 2x or 3x before it even start, and you cannot press the throttle when your starting it or it will not start.
Should i replace the IMPELLER or just the WEAR RING? What OIL should i use for the jet pump? Thanks
I havent done the compression test yet, still waiting for the tool for that.
I saw on different post that it could be a bad RECTIFIER, since my battery was drain to no charge at all while installed.
I fully charged the battery before we took it out, and it was running good (48 MPH top speed for my ski and 6500 RPM) for about 20 min and after that it start bugging or hesitation when pressing the throttle. I let it sit for about 10 min and it was having a hard time starting. You literally have to press an hold the start button for about 10 seconds and sometimes you have to do it 2x or 3x before it even start, and you cannot press the throttle when your starting it or it will not start.
Should i replace the IMPELLER or just the WEAR RING? What OIL should i use for the jet pump? Thanks
I havent done the compression test yet, still waiting for the tool for that.
You need to have a compression test done. Doesn't matter if anything else is wrong if your engine is no good. If I had to make a guess assuming the engine was good would be the fuel pump going bad. Since it's Direct injected if the pressure is to low in will have hard starting symptoms if it starts at all. Like I said though it could be alot of things, Could be fuel selector going bad or fuel line, Could be vaccum leak etc.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
have you changed your spark plugs? not just cleaned them, a fouled plug will look normal, change your plugs.
for the jet pump oil, you should use seadoo synthetic jet pump oil, but this is not your engine running problem.
change plugs, start it. if still bad, check compression.
for the jet pump oil, you should use seadoo synthetic jet pump oil, but this is not your engine running problem.
change plugs, start it. if still bad, check compression.
You said after you charged the battery it ran good for 20 minutes right? Then started acting up. What was the voltage on the battery then? Was it having a hard time turning over? Low battery voltage can do some crazy things especially on an injected motor. If the battery was weak from running than i think the charging system is where i would look to first. The worn wear ring will cause over revving with little forward movement and not stopping at 4600 rpms.
My guess is a broken reed.
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=94&B=4
Bills86e
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=94&B=4
Bills86e
searay1989
New Member
im new here i just pick up a 2002 gtx di from some one and trusted him. but now i have a problem can anyone help thanks .
i gased up and toped off the oil ,put in the water and it wont go over 4200 rpms , so i changed the spark plugs and that didnt work , took a compression check holding it full throttle and got 75lbs # 1 cyl and 100lbs # 2 cyl , checked running battery voltage and its 12.5 at idle and 13 when i rev it ,it starts to buck and sputter at 4200 rpms , also the red light is blinking on the dash and the maintence word is on the screen, if its in limp mode how do i read the codes could it be a coil breaking down on voltage help !!!!!!!!!!!
i gased up and toped off the oil ,put in the water and it wont go over 4200 rpms , so i changed the spark plugs and that didnt work , took a compression check holding it full throttle and got 75lbs # 1 cyl and 100lbs # 2 cyl , checked running battery voltage and its 12.5 at idle and 13 when i rev it ,it starts to buck and sputter at 4200 rpms , also the red light is blinking on the dash and the maintence word is on the screen, if its in limp mode how do i read the codes could it be a coil breaking down on voltage help !!!!!!!!!!!
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
you need to rebuild the engine, you should have done a compression check before you buy, not after. you also should start a new thread. 75psi means you have a major cylinder problem and at least the top end needs to be completely rebuilt, no other options. that is why it is running bad and the red light is blinking.
- Status
