2002 GTX DI runs for a while but then dies

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mibworms66

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We have a 2002 GTX DI we bought used. Has run great for 3 summers (approx 20-30 hrs per summer). This week twice it has quit 45-60 minutes into a run leaving us to have to tow it back to trailer. It will be running just fine, starts easily, gets up to speed nicely and then after about 45-60 mins of running it just sputters and die. It will not restart right away. Received MAINT on LCD and red light. If we let it sit for 2-3 minutes, it will restart, but not go more than 5-10 mph. After a while it will die again. It seems the longer we let it sit, the longer it will run when we restart. If I give it any gas at all, it will eventually die again after a few minutes. The 2nd time it happened, I let it idle while it was being towed and it idled for 20-30 mins until we got it on the trailer. It starts just fine when flushing and the next time we try to ride.

After the first problem, we took it to a local NJ beach SeaDoo dealer and he ran it but didn't find anything wrong with it. He said he ran it in the water, not just on the rolling trailer we moved it onto. He said it could be a loose battery cable since I had disconnected the battery cable after the first problem. He said the fuel pump has to get proper voltage and it probably came loose, which did not happen the second time it stopped running because it was tightened by the dealer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
 
I had soft fuel line that collapsed when fuel was demanded. It would uncollapse after a few minutes. It was half a summer before I found it.
 
Dealer does not need to just run it, they need to hook it up to their BUDS system and see what code it is throwing.
I have had a DI that acted the same way (limp mode) because the rectifier was allowing AC voltage into the electrical system. When I connected it to diagnostic system, sure enough the code was "overvoltage."

Maybe start the ski on the trailer with a volt meter connected to the battery and rev the engine to 3000rpms. If you are getting anything over 14.5 volts it is the rectifier. If you are getting anything under 12.9 volts it is also the rectifier, otherwise the code will meet to be read in order to figure out the problem.
 
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