RESTO 2001 GTX RFI

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So that is not a DI ski, it is a GTX RFI. Last two digits of the hull VIN are the year. 01 = 2001

It is on it's second SBT engine after the first one failed immediately so good luck with that.....

Do not use a crap chinese starter. Find a used OEM one and put new brushes in it.

New battery, do not boost or jump start ever!

Make sure you are only using API-TC rated synthetic oil.

I would change the in-tank fuel filters.

Plastic plates are the seat latch and you will see locating holes on the hull over the engine compartment.
 
So that is not a DI ski, it is a GTX RFI. Last two digits of the hull VIN are the year. 01 = 2001

It is on it's second SBT engine after the first one failed immediately so good luck with that.....

Do not use a crap chinese starter. Find a used OEM one and put new brushes in it.

New battery, do not boost or jump start ever!

Make sure you are only using API-TC rated synthetic oil.

I would change the in-tank fuel filters.

Plastic plates are the seat latch and you will see locating holes on the hull over the engine compartment.
Whoops! Shows how much I know. Okay, so this is the 787RFI model.

The seller provided me a replacement starter; I'll have to check if it's OEM or not.

I thought SBT was a well-regarded brand? The "second" replacement engine was ran for quite a while before the starter went out.

Just curious, why can jumping the skis be a bad idea? Stator damage?
 
LOL, SBT is anything but a trusted reliable brand.

It is what you have so no harm in trying it.

No boosting or jumping as it is well known to fry the MPEM (engine computer).

Here is the thread that lists the fuel filter numbers and how to change them.RFI Info Thread
 
I’m working on getting the engine back together. Finally wrestled the starter out (not even gonna get started on the atrocity the PO left that area in). One thing I can’t figure out is what this orange ground plate attaches to. Any help here?
 

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That is the grounding post for the spark plug wires, for when you need to purge the cylinders of water, oil, or fuel. Also used if you need to check compression

edit: it attaches to the PTO (rear) side of the exhaust manifold
 
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Item #1 is the bottom half of the air intake box, mounts to the top of the throttle body. #2 and #3 are the seat latch as mikidymac noted, there's a depression in the lip of the hull opening where they clamp onto. The threaded inlet for attaching a hose is at the back above the jet pump, water must be shut off if the ski is not running (read the manual). Google seadoo manuals and you can find the shop manual for your ski, it will answer most of your questions.
 
So guys, have a pretty big update! I got the ski put together and after rectifying lots of little issues, it runs pretty damn good. It started right up after sitting for over a year4B5802EC-3A05-4390-A6A0-7793F1EDE358.jpeg

It runs pretty cherry now, but my dad drove it yesterday and commented that it’ll randomly cut out around 35mph, not accelerate any more. Then the issue vanishes after a couple minutes

The only trivial thing I noted when reassembling the engine is these two sensors circled in the pic. The TPS and air pressure sensor. The 3-pin connectors for these are both keyed identically and I had no way to tell which one goes where, so I had a 50/50 shot of getting them right

Is it possible that the issue noted above could be caused by these sensors being swapped? Or would the ski not run at all?

If it’s not these sensors, anyone have any ideas what this cut-out issue could be?
 
I don't think you can get these backwards because the TPS won't reach to the ATS switch. I could be wrong. The other thing that can cause that issue is the rectifier. It is in Image 5 above resting on top of the computer. It can go bad causing the problem you mention. Search it and you can test a workaround by disconnecting the red wire. Also, check the voltage of the battery and then again when running. It should be 12.4 volts off and 13.7 approx when running.
 
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