2001 gtx di

[jimmyluke]

I just got the ski in October 2017 but because of registration/title issues That I just got straightened out, I did not want to put any time or money into it until now. I am planning on cleaning out the fuel tank, draining and cleaning out the oil tank because it has the wrong oil in it, putting new internal fuel filters and New in-line fuel filter, and pulling the fuel pump and let it clean itself by running it in a toluene/gas mixture. I pulled the engine out of it. Mainly to change the oil injection lines and all the water lines that were not easily accessible, change the seized steering cable and the carbon seal assembly, and the inside of the hull is a mess. My question is, while I have the engine out besides the things I mentioned, is there anything crucial or recommended that I should do to the engine or anywhere else for that matter while the engine is out to make life easier.

 

[mikidymac]

Change the balancer oil and you absolutely will have to align the engine.

 

[jimmyluke]

Thank you for your reply. Yes I will align the engine. I have the alignment tool- it came with the previous ski that I bought. As far as the balancer oil goes do I remove and replace The oil from the vent line in the picture below? And if so how much and what kind of oil.
Thank you for your help Jim
s

 

[mikidymac]

First clean that nasty girl up before you do anything. I prefer simple green on the engines and Castrol SuperClean in the hull. THe superclean is strong enough to take the shine off the engine paint.

Yes, remove that brass nipple for the vent and most people use a turkey flavor injector to suck out the old oil as there is no drain plug. The manual lists the quantity (I don't remember) and it is standard Heavy Duty 30 weight motor oil. Make sure it is standard 30 weight and not a multigrade like 10W30.

Now is the time to change the small 3/32" oil injection lines and make sure you have only API-TC Full Synthetic oil in the system.

 

[jimmyluke]

Thanks for the recommendations on the cleaners. yeah the engine has some gunk on it but man inside the hull it’s nasty. I am going to clean things up a bit but not get too anal right now because I want to get this on the water before summer is over. Actually that was the main reason I pulled the engine was to change these oil lines that you always recommend changing. and a few other things like I previously mentioned. But I just looked in the manual in the “technical data” section and there is nothing about counterbalance oil volume. Thanks again
JIM

 

[mikidymac]

The balancer takes 40 ml on a 951.

 

[jimmyluke]

Detergent or non-detergent oil?
When I pulled the Engine I broke off one of the plastic barbed fittings on the magneto cooling cover. Here is a picture of the cover and what lies underneath. It’s pretty nasty looking was this most likely a salt water ski?
Thanks again for your help I really appreciate it

 

[mikidymac]

Just standard HD 30W, Autozone brand is what I bought.

Yes, that's a salt ski, clean it ub the best you can and get a new cover if you need to.

 

[jhjesse]

I have had a couple of those mag cooler cover nipples break. I went to the local hardware store and purchased a brass (could be plastic as well) barbed nipple with a 1/8npt thread on the other end. Drilled and tapped it to 1/8npt.
Carefully screwed it in with pipe sealer.

Change the oil filter while you are changing oil lines. You will need to pre prime the three small oil lines. I use a cordless drill and spin the oil pump while the main oil line is in the oil container. Works like a charm.

 

[jimmyluke]

Nice tip thank you! Also when I removed the exhaust pipe from the manifold The lip on the manifold that holds the O-ring in was broke away about 60% of the circumference. As you can see it was the O ring style. I got a used one from Westside Powersports and he recommended the gasket style instead of the O-ring style and that is what I got. Of course I got new gaskets for both ends of the manifold. What sealant if any is recommended for the gaskets. The parts book does not show any sealant on either gaskets but the original was The O ring style on the discharge end of the manifold, and the used manifold that I just got has the gaskets that are stuck on with something.

 

[mikidymac]

It was always my understanding the o-ring ones were better and that is why seadoo switched. Nick at Westside knows his stuff though. I would use a very light coat of 1211 on both sides of the gasket as that joint is known to leak. Also make sure you have the "diaper" and the rubber deflector flaps to keep any leaks out of the intake.

 

[jimmyluke]

Nick at Westside said something about water getting in there and freezing and breaking it off that might be what happened to this one ?
Is this the correct stuff that you were talking about? If so none of my local auto parts store has it I will simply have to order it online. Thank you for your help. JIM

 

[jhjesse]

I have both on my skis. Both are good as long as you torque correctly using blue thread locker

 

[jimmyluke]

Even though the replacement exhaust manifold I bought is a gasket type- for future reference does the O-ring style require any sealant?

 

[mikidymac]

The o-ring goes on dry but......... you will find a lot of uses for the 1211 as it is not a typical RTV so just a thin coat leaving the material shiney will seal most anything, even o-rings that go in dry.

 

[jimmyluke]

Awesome thanks.

 

[jimmyluke]

I set my engine back in the hull. I primed the oil lines with a drill. Sat in there for about a day and I was suspicious that the oil in my lines May have leaked. So I put a mark on the oil filter and in about 20 hours the oil level went down about 3/8 of an inch on the oil filter. I do not see any X ternal leak so I’m assuming it went into the engine. What is most likely the cause and can I run it this way hoping to get a couple rides out of it this year- have not had on the water yet.
Thanks Jim

 

[mikidymac]

I have never done that or worried about it too much. I would just fill the tank. Could have been a trapped air bubble or something.

 

[jimmyluke]

Several days Prior to setting the engine in is when I primed the Oil lines. I’m pretty confident the oil was about 2 inches above the filter. A day or two after setting the engine in is when I thought I noticed the oil went down and that is when I put the reference mark on. Could it have gotten into the crank case? And if so by taking the plugs out and of course grounding the plug wires and cranking the engine over would that take care of any problematic excess oil before starting the engine?
And one more question and that is since the oil lines are bled from the oil pump to the crankcase, when I fill my oil tank if I simply open the bleeder screw at the pump until all the air is out will that be sufficient enough or do I need to prime the whole system again? Thank you
JIM

 

[jimmyluke]

I am ready to install the tuned pipe etc. I bought the special wrench to access that hard to get at stud nut on the manifold- to- head pipe connection. The wrench measures about 5-3/16” Center to center. The specification In the book calls for 35 foot pounds of torque. With my calculations I figure 20 foot pounds of torque on the end of that wrench. Sound right to you guys? Thoughts, comments, or experiences?
Thanks Jim.

 

[mikidymac]

I typically just use a regular wrench and tighten by feel.

 

[jimmyluke]

OK thank you. I’m pretty sure my calculations are right however I’ll find out tomorrow but I don’t think I can get the torque wrench in there parallel with the wrench and I think the torque wrench anything other than parallel will change the amount of torque being applied to the nut. So I’ll probably do like you said- go by feel. I just figured somebody had to use this wrench before. Thanks again Jim

 

[tkarvelis]

T

Several days Prior to setting the engine in is when I primed the Oil lines. I’m pretty confident the oil was about 2 inches above the filter. A day or two after setting the engine in is when I thought I noticed the oil went down and that is when I put the reference mark on. Could it have gotten into the crank case? And if so by taking the plugs out and of course grounding the plug wires and cranking the engine over would that take care of any problematic excess oil before starting the engine?
And one more question and that is since the oil lines are bled from the oil pump to the crankcase, when I fill my oil tank if I simply open the bleeder screw at the pump until all the air is out will that be sufficient enough or do I need to prime the whole system again? Thank you
JIM

The nipples on the engine have a spring and check ball to keep the oil from "free flowing" into the engine. It sounds like one or all have weak springs. It will smoke a bit more on startup, but I dont think you will get enough oil in it to do damage.

If you rebuilt the engine, a pressure test would show which nipple was leaking.

 

[jimmyluke]

Good information thank you Jim

 

[jimmyluke]

T


The nipples on the engine have a spring and check ball to keep the oil from "free flowing" into the engine. It sounds like one or all have weak springs. It will smoke a bit more on startup, but I dont think you will get enough oil in it to do damage.

If you rebuilt the engine, a pressure test would show which nipple was leaking.

Do the nipples on the oil pump also have a spring and a check ball or just the nipples on the block? Thank you