• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 gti motor siezed up

Status
Not open for further replies.

Cheflen

Active Member
So today I had my two seadoos out with my girlfriend and she was on my gti. After riding for about 30 minutes she just stopped. She explained to me that the throttle got stuck at about half throttle and didn't let it move at all and then the motor siezed after a few seconds. I assumed that this was the oil pump failing/getting stuck closed because when I had the RV out last week I put it back and the throttle didn't move, I noticed that the cable running to the oil pump was stuck so I took it apart and freed it up and then I had throttle again. Did this sieze because of the oil pump? Also I'm trying to find the fastest and cheapest replacement. I'm thinking of sbt even though their quality isn't the best. How quickly does sbt ship? I'm in the Illinois area
 
If your oil pump was stuck at the lowest setting and she was going half or more it could have caused a lack of oil.

SBT will be your only option if you want to be back on the water before summer. They ship in a couple days. Don't buy and of their carb kits or things like that. I would suggest rebuilding your carb with genuine mikuni parts, new fuel strainer, new fuel selector , new oil filter and flush the oil tank. Also make sure you align the new engine with the correct alignment tool.
 
If your oil pump was stuck at the lowest setting and she was going half or more it could have caused a lack of oil.

SBT will be your only option if you want to be back on the water before summer. They ship in a couple days. Don't buy and of their carb kits or things like that. I would suggest rebuilding your carb with genuine mikuni parts, new fuel strainer, new fuel selector , new oil filter and flush the oil tank. Also make sure you align the new engine with the correct alignment tool.
My question is, will I need to get a new oil pump or is it fine now that it has freed up again? I just don't want the same problem happening again
 
Update: you'll never believe this one. I decided to pull the engine apart to find the problem, and one of the bolts on top of the carburetor fell into the intake. It was lodged into the rotary valve and STOPPED AT THE ROTARY VALVE. I thought I was really lucky until I got the bolt out, took the (damaged) rotary valve off and the crank still won't spin. The bolt was all intact, and the only damage to the engine was the actual rotary valve, I see no signs of damage anywhere in the engine. So now I'm extremely confused on how this engine still won't spin. At all. Any thoughts?
 
You stripped the Brass gear that drives the rotary valve shaft off the center of the crank. You will still have the split the cases and typically this bends the rotary shaft too. Your crank is probably fine but you will need a complete gasket set with seals. DO NOT buy the WSM stainless rotary valve as it is not correct. Only oem
 
You stripped the Brass gear that drives the rotary valve shaft off the center of the crank. You will still have the split the cases and typically this bends the rotary shaft too. Your crank is probably fine but you will need a complete gasket set with seals. DO NOT buy the WSM stainless rotary valve as it is not correct. Only oem
So I can get away with getting just a whole rotary shaft?
 
It’s pretty uncommon since it’s cast iron but they have been known to move off center if the rotary gear locks solid. I would check it when you get the crank out.
 
Update. Got everything torn apart after a long work week. The rotary shaft was fine, but the inner crank bearings will barely move. I honestly don't know what to do at this point. Probably will just need a new motor but everything is torn apart so I am not sure how sbt will take it. This is extremely upsetting.
 
Just slap it back together and SBT will take it if that’s the way you decide to go.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top