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2000 Seadoo GTX DI wont rev over 4850 RPMS

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a315rider

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Hello all,
New to this forum but figured this is a place to start trying to figure out what is going on with my seadoo. The seadoo is a 2000 Seadoo gtx DI. I took it out on the water the other day and it won't go above 4850 rpms. It is slugish to get to the top rpm range but once there it just holds there with no change in rpm. Almost as if it is being held by a limiter.
Also the Maint display is on, with a red flashing light. When I push the start/stop button 5x it gives me one short beep followed by a longer one.

I have tried the following so far,
-New battery(I needed one)
-Changed spark plugs
-Checked RAVE valves on engine
-Checked all fuses
-Tried both keys (learner and regular DESS key)
-Pulled the air injectors, they both opened and closed when hooked up to power
Also what I just did was, while on the trailer I disconnected the rectifier/voltage regulator and reved the engine. The rpms are still held back whether it is plugged in or not.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
I had somewhat of a similar issue (although revs were higher) and eventually found the RAVE valve line had a hidden split in it. I found it
by running my fingers up the lines. Line replaced and all was good. Just a thought.
 
Well I checked the hoses going to the RAVE valves and they look good. I just used a multimeter to check battery voltage when running vs off. I was reading 12.68 when off and at idle it went to 12.88 then around 3k RPMS it went to 13.60.

Any other ideas?
 
check charging system with engine running at 3000 rpms, first check battery voltage engine not running, then start and see where it goes at 3k, then post results, on a di and a rfi, it will go into a failsafe mode when proper voltae is not achieved
 
Alright I will go check now and report back, how do I reset the computer? Just unplug battery and plug back in?
 
Where is the knock sensor and water temperature sensor located?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDjUWXjM0U8

I found this video on in another thread in this forum unfortunately he never posted his fix.

That video shows exactly what mine is doing.
Also just rechecked voltage, idle is 12.88 then from above idle on up its pretty consistent between 13.32 & 13.33
 
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Just took it to the dealer, the codes it is throwing are: something to do with starting relay i think it said faulty starting relay, and also the rave valve switch. Both of which are in operating correctly it seems (seadoo starts i.e.. how would the relay be bad, also the rave valves open and close as they should)
 
This is still going on, all dealers in my area have any idea what is going on with my jetski. My maint light is still on. There has to be someone on here that is knowledgeable with these machines.
 
I've seen the mounting bolt for the knock sensor come lose before on Mercruiser sterns drives, also causes a similar issue but throws a knock sensor code.

It seems your codes make no sense, could be a charging system problem. Try disconnecting the rectifier and see if the revs come back, the battery won't have enough power to run that way very long though. Don't charge the battery unless one of the terminals (I suggest negative terminal) are disconnected, overvoltage from many battery chargers or jump starting can damage the MPEM and they're $$$$!

Could also be a corroded ground somewhere, especially the battery to engine block connection.
 
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Any idea where the ground is on the block? I thought unplugging the reg/rec can cause damage to the mpem because it controls voltage?
 
The charging system provides the majority of current while the engine is running and charges the battery as well. The rec/reg controls the output voltage of the charging system (charging system consists of rec/reg + stator). Unplugging the RR disables the charging system completely, so it's the same as running the engine with a blown REG fuse, slightly safer, in my opinion. The battery will provide the current during this test instead of the normal charging system thus the engine cannot run very long because the battery will be discharging into the electrical system.

The full charging system testing, diagnostic procedures and electrical schematic are included in the shop manual.

There are several ground terminal connections on the engine block, some are low in the bilge and can corrode with moisture. I would pay particular attention to the reg/rec ground and the battery "-" cable connection but almost any ground can create ground loops and cause the MPEM to throw erroneous codes, including the MPEM ground itself. The electrical schematic provided in the shop manual shows the various grounds, you will have to locate each one physically though. Often, the factory will place several of them together under one screw. Inspect them carefully for lose fasteners and/or corroded terminals. Remove the fastener connecting them to the engine block and clean them free of corrosion with a small stiff wire brush or sandpaper, coat them with dialectic grease and reattach them to their original location.
 
The charging system provides the majority of current while the engine is running and charges the battery as well. The rec/reg controls the output voltage of the charging system (charging system consists of rec/reg + stator). Unplugging the RR disables the charging system completely, so it's the same as running the engine with a blown REG fuse, slightly safer, in my opinion. The battery will provide the current during this test instead of the normal charging system thus the engine cannot run very long because the battery will be discharging into the electrical system. The idea is to eliminate any possibility the charging system might be malfunctioning.

The full charging system testing, diagnostic procedures and electrical schematic are included in the shop manual.

There are several ground terminal connections on the engine block, some are low in the bilge and can corrode with moisture. I would pay particular attention to the reg/rec ground and the battery "-" cable connection but almost any ground can create ground loops and cause the MPEM to throw erroneous codes, including the MPEM ground itself. The electrical schematic provided in the shop manual shows the various grounds, you will have to locate each one physically though. Often, the factory will place several of them together under one screw. Inspect them carefully for lose fasteners and/or corroded terminals. Remove the fastener connecting them to the engine block and clean them free of corrosion with a small stiff wire brush or sandpaper, coat them with dialectic grease and reattach them to their original location.
 
Luckily (or maybe not?) I have two 951di skis to swap parts with. After I found the issue, I ordered a couple TPS of eBay to replace the bad one, so that both skis are still operational.
 
Must be nice to have a donor ski to swap parts. I checked all grounds and pulled the gas tank out, they all are good with absolutely no corrosion. Just to double check I did a 12v test with a meter between ground and positive to ensure proper ground and all checked out. Any other thoughts?
 
So for anyone that is curious about what happened and what fixed my issue. It was my MPEM. Ordered a used one off ebay, installed it, and the maint light never came back on.
 
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