I picked up this ski last fall. The maintenance light was blinking and it was running around 46 mph at 6600 rpm in warm weather. I chased down that the Air Pressure Sensor was bad, replaced, reset light. I also replaced the fuel pump and filters as they looked original and were clogged. I took the Rave Valves apart and cleaned. All looked normal but dirty. I took it out the other day on cold water and it ran around 49 mph at 6700 rpm WOT. I unplugged the Rave Solenoid and it ran exactly the same. I have tested the Solenoid with a 9 volt battery and it appears to open normally. I'm not sure how else to test the Rave system, but they do not appear to be opening. I had a 951 engine with Rave Valves and could feel when they kicked in. I don't feel that on this ski. Any suggestions on how to test or what I should expect for top mph on this ski? Starts up and runs smooth. Around 125 psi per cylinder.
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2000 GTX RFi Rave Valve Issue
- Thread starter rcgop
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Is there a way to verify if the signal is getting from the MPEM to the Solenoid? If the throttle position sensor needs to be reset, could that be the cause? I believe the Raves are good and I believe the Solenoid is good. I don't know how to DX the signal voltage or the positive pressure from the crank in the line. I appreciate any advice.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Could be no pneumatic pressure to actuate the RAVEs?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I believe to develop pressure on that one the pneumatic line connected to the crankcase nipple has a check valve in it located a few inches from the crankcase nipple so while the crankcase is pressurized (piston moving in the downward stroke) pressure is forced through the check valve towards the solenoid through a plastic tubing.
If so, make sure the tubing connecting between the crankcase nipple and check valve is sound, the check valve operates and isn't clogged with debris, and the tubing from the check valve to the solenoid is in good condition over it's length.
If you discover the check valve is clogged for instance, then replace or clean it using carburetor cleaner, replace any missing, disconnected or damaged tubing, or whatever you might discover that might interrupt pneumatic pressure from reaching the solenoid and RAVEs bellows.
If so, make sure the tubing connecting between the crankcase nipple and check valve is sound, the check valve operates and isn't clogged with debris, and the tubing from the check valve to the solenoid is in good condition over it's length.
If you discover the check valve is clogged for instance, then replace or clean it using carburetor cleaner, replace any missing, disconnected or damaged tubing, or whatever you might discover that might interrupt pneumatic pressure from reaching the solenoid and RAVEs bellows.
You are a genius! If you come to Kansas City I owe you a beer and some BBQ. The bottom 2" was the old gray Tempo line. Green goo filling the inside clogging the check valve. Replaced that line and cleaned the check valve. Feeling optimistic and anxious to get on the lake! Thanks for the help!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Nice, I'd forgotten they used the tempo line there but now it makes more sense. Amazing how many corrosion issues relate to the tempo stuff.
Come to think of it, mine's probably tempo too!
Easy fix though...
Come to think of it, mine's probably tempo too!
Easy fix though...
I believe I'll do some checks on a ski have. LOL
Should I encounter resistance to flow when pulling a vacuum through the crankcase pulse line toward the Rave valves? It takes a bit of suction to get the air flowing. The check valve is holding but I'm wondering if it is plugged up in the direction of flow. The power doesn't feel like it is coming in. I just came to the point during brake-in where I could give it some throttle.
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