1999 GTX RFI No Charge?

[JoeRJGR]

New to me 99 GTX RFI. 63 hours on the ski, I replaced the plugs, fuel, did the jet drive oil and installed a new battery. It ran great for about 2 hours, then would not restart. Just a click from the electrical box. As it was new battery, I assumed it was not charging.

I charged the battery and I still get the same click.

Ideas from here and after I find the issue, how can I check that it is charging?

I have a feeling the rectifier may have been replaced, and this why I say that. After the initial 2 beeps I get 4 short beeps. According to my SM it states that shows no connection to the MPEP. Thats impossible because it runs great. But I have read that later units do the 4 short beeps to alert you that the lanyard cap is in position.

Anyway, thanks for the post and as always any assistance.

 

[mikidymac]

First I would pull the sparkplugs and the rear plastic engine/driveshaft cover and see if you can turn the engine over by hand to make sure nothing is locked up.

 

[JoeRJGR]

great point..will do

 

[Ckrawiec]

Joe,

Your post was kinda confusing.....you said the ski runs great then you go on to describe a no start/click problem. You were also asking about a "no charging" issue.

The "no charging" thing is very easy to diagnose -> if the ski starts and runs....a running ski should have about 14.1 VDC (in that neighborhood) at the battery, it should be a relatively stable value....if you get a bouncing value...the rectifier is probably not working.

If the ski won't start on the Start button push, assuming your DESS is recognized.....what happens if you short the two solenoid posts together? Doing that sends battery power directly to the starter motor...the starter should be turning the flywheel....you can take out the plugs to lessen the compressive load on the starter.....if the starter is spinning the flywheel, the pistons should be pumping. If shorting the posts gets the starter going, then you probably have a bad solenoid (the clicking you hear is the little bar inside the solenoid trying to short the posts together to send battery power to the starter)...the posts may be burnt (carbonized) inside the solenoid itself.

Assuming you are doing your testing on the driveway, on the hose......and the ski can be started....Start ski, turn on the hose, do your testing, turn off the water, turn off the engine....IN THAT order. Many people start the water first.....that's a mistake. Don't run hose water into a non-running ski....

 

[POPPS]

Check that the battery is at 12.6, and do a load test.,,remove the battery easily from your equation,

 

[JoeRJGR]

Joe,

Your post was kinda confusing.....you said the ski runs great then you go on to describe a no start/click problem. You were also asking about a "no charging" issue.

The "no charging" thing is very easy to diagnose -> if the ski starts and runs....a running ski should have about 14.1 VDC (in that neighborhood) at the battery, it should be a relatively stable value....if you get a bouncing value...the rectifier is probably not working.

If the ski won't start on the Start button push, assuming your DESS is recognized.....what happens if you short the two solenoid posts together? Doing that sends battery power directly to the starter motor...the starter should be turning the flywheel....you can take out the plugs to lessen the compressive load on the starter.....if the starter is spinning the flywheel, the pistons should be pumping. If shorting the posts gets the starter going, then you probably have a bad solenoid (the clicking you hear is the little bar inside the solenoid trying to short the posts together to send battery power to the starter)...the posts may be burnt (carbonized) inside the solenoid itself.

Assuming you are doing your testing on the driveway, on the hose......and the ski can be started....Start ski, turn on the hose, do your testing, turn off the water, turn off the engine....IN THAT order. Many people start the water first.....that's a mistake. Don't run hose water into a non-running ski....

CK,

Thanks for the reply...The ski ran great for a couple hours and started and was restarted multiple times. Then it would not start. The battery was brand new so my original assumption was that it wasn't charging. I charged the battery and had the same issue so that assumption may be wrong. I will go through all the suggestions above. Can you or Pops explain how to do a load test on a ski? Thanks!

 

[Ckrawiec]

CK,

Thanks for the reply...The ski ran great for a couple hours and started and was restarted multiple times. Then it would not start. The battery was brand new so my original assumption was that it wasn't charging. I charged the battery and had the same issue so that assumption may be wrong. I will go through all the suggestions above. Can you or Pops explain how to do a load test on a ski? Thanks!

You do a LOAD test on the battery while it is OUT of the ski.....a load tester is a device that connects to the battery terminals and puts a high current draw on the battery (making heat). The load tester can indicate if you have a bad cell{s} in the battery.....any Autozone can do that for you.

What you are describing sounds like a battery "charging" issue to me......to get a ski started, the battery provides power to the starter to kick the engine over and the engine/ski starts making it's own electric power to maintain the "running" process (IF it starts and runs). The battery also provides the initial voltage to the ignition coil to fire the plugs. Once the ski is running, the ski is supposed to keep the battery replenished (via the charging system) so the battery doesn't get drawn down providing the juice to the ignition coil.

If the charging system is malfunctioning. the battery will get drawn down until it poops out.....not enough juice to keep the spark going and not enough juice to get re-started.

The charging system is the magneto, rectifier/regulator, wiring, fuses, etc.....ski magneto produces AC power (while running), the rectifier/regulator converts that AC to DC and sends the DC back to the battery (trickle charging). With a properly functioning charging system....a simple check at the battery (with a running ski) should show a nice STEADY 14.1 VDC (in that neighborhood)....if the voltage is bouncing around the rec/reg is probably fubar...if the voltage is 12.X voltage and possibly diminishing.....the charging system is not working - somewhere along the way.

There are techniques to test each component so don't just assume throwing parts at it will solve anything....take your time and dignose each component along the way...it's not hard to do.....I use nothing more sophisticated than a FREE Harbor Freight meter and some alligator clip extension wires.....patience and a service manual are required. You can find the service manual online here, it should be free.

Good luck and happy hunting.

 

[JoeRJGR]

Bad news...can't turn the PTO by hand...is my next to remove the pump?;can't believe in it .worked fine, now it's locked up?

 

[toolman60]

I would make sure there is nothing in the jet pump jamming the impeller. Then look at separating the drive shaft from pump then you should be able to narrow down the problem. I am brand new to jet ski's but the basics still apply.

My daughter is getting her uncle's I believe 99 year model GTX limited so that is why I joined forum.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, on these you have to remove the pump before you can remove the driveshaft.
On these models you have to slide the stainless hat towards the rear of the ski on the driveshaft seal and remove the retaining clip before you pull the pump or you will not be able to remove the clip or the driveshaft after the pump is out.

 

[JoeRJGR]

Pump is out...spins freely....shaft; not at all....I guess my next step is to look at the top end of the engine? what do I need to do ? what would have caused this? Like I said, ski ran great....pulled it up to the dock, shut it off, then it wouldnt restart....so bizare

 

[mikidymac]

You can pull the head, it’s just sealed with o-rings.

 

[JoeRJGR]

And what will that tell me?

 

[mikidymac]

You can see if the pistons look ok and any scaring on the cylinders.

 

[JoeRJGR]

You can see if the pistons look ok and any scaring on the cylinders.

Got it..but if the pistons look ok how would it be locked?

 

[POPPS]

You have could have a scored piston, a locked up crank bearing, metal from the piston is in the crank, or the rotary valve gear could also be locked up.

 

[JoeRJGR]

What about the starter being engaged, is that possible?