WhiteZombie
Member
To begin, this is a project boat that I am trying to get in the water soon. I have the jets off, seals out and the shafts out of this boat, so I feel pretty sure I can run the engines safely on a hose for adjustments, etc. About 5 minutes has been my max like one time. So I was adjusting the idle on my newly rebuilt carbs that ofcourse I used OEM kits on. The carbs seemed to work great! I adjusted the starboard side and fogged the engine, and had just started adjusting the port side when the coil gave out on me. No suprise as I had just changed out the seleonoid after having found 4 inches of water in the electical box. Funny thing was the selonoid worked until I dried up the box and after that I probably had it running a handful of times until it gave out. I assume the coil was ok until I reved the rpms up. I verified voltage to and none out at the plug. I ordered a used one off fleabay from a regular parts dealer cause I don't trust aftermarket clone coils due to timing issues I've had on small engines. I'd rather go Japanese 1998 over anything China ever anyways.
So that was that. Another thing i noticed was the tachs were not acting properly. I was planing to use the rpms to make some adjustments I need to do like the steer assist cable adjustments because mine was disconnected. So neither tach read at idle. Right side would finally jump up to 4000 from no reading when i had the engine reved up about half as high as I felt comfortable running it at. It would then gradually go up to around 6000 rpms. Left side was similiar but started showing a reading at 2000 rpms. When reved in Neutral both would make a bogging out sound at around 5000 rpm reading, and I think this should have happened at 3500 rpm if I understand the neutral safety switch operation/function.
So I'm getting very mixed info on this situation. From what I gather the tachs are most likely ok. So I'm more looking at electronics. So what I have done so far is verify connections on tach, checked the ohm reading of the stator connector on the engine, verified battery ok (not with it running, I will check the voltage tommorow on both rectifiers individually on the engine I have running(I already have them out and should be able to change them out to verify left engine as well for correct voltage at battery while running). I say I will do that because if I'm understanding it is the only way to check these rectifiers. I have ohmed and diode tested these based off experience and youtube videos. The problem is it seems there is no true way to verify these electronically with a meter, but some seem to do so on youtube. I looked in my Service Manual several times and to be honest I can't really find anything on the rectifiers except for a pic of one, so no factory ohm readings as there doesn't seem to be a section on it. If I missed it someone please tell me the page number, but I looked under several sections like charging and MPEM system and all (I do have the addendum book as well). I just can't locate the info if it is there. But visually the rectifiers look good, ohm and diode tests seem to be what others seem to get on good rectifiers, and I am using a similiar Fluke 77 meter that some use. I thought about hooking a 24v AC transformer to it to test it but sure as I do something will fry for sure. I may pull the schematic out to verify it is the black and red that gets the voltage. Seems that is right but then I hear power comes from stator on yellow wires so I'll check schematic
Any help or suggestions are appreciated. I want this boat as good as I can get it out of water before I drop her in. Girlfriend is getting antzy and its getting hot to be working on this in the shop. Thanks!
So that was that. Another thing i noticed was the tachs were not acting properly. I was planing to use the rpms to make some adjustments I need to do like the steer assist cable adjustments because mine was disconnected. So neither tach read at idle. Right side would finally jump up to 4000 from no reading when i had the engine reved up about half as high as I felt comfortable running it at. It would then gradually go up to around 6000 rpms. Left side was similiar but started showing a reading at 2000 rpms. When reved in Neutral both would make a bogging out sound at around 5000 rpm reading, and I think this should have happened at 3500 rpm if I understand the neutral safety switch operation/function.
So I'm getting very mixed info on this situation. From what I gather the tachs are most likely ok. So I'm more looking at electronics. So what I have done so far is verify connections on tach, checked the ohm reading of the stator connector on the engine, verified battery ok (not with it running, I will check the voltage tommorow on both rectifiers individually on the engine I have running(I already have them out and should be able to change them out to verify left engine as well for correct voltage at battery while running). I say I will do that because if I'm understanding it is the only way to check these rectifiers. I have ohmed and diode tested these based off experience and youtube videos. The problem is it seems there is no true way to verify these electronically with a meter, but some seem to do so on youtube. I looked in my Service Manual several times and to be honest I can't really find anything on the rectifiers except for a pic of one, so no factory ohm readings as there doesn't seem to be a section on it. If I missed it someone please tell me the page number, but I looked under several sections like charging and MPEM system and all (I do have the addendum book as well). I just can't locate the info if it is there. But visually the rectifiers look good, ohm and diode tests seem to be what others seem to get on good rectifiers, and I am using a similiar Fluke 77 meter that some use. I thought about hooking a 24v AC transformer to it to test it but sure as I do something will fry for sure. I may pull the schematic out to verify it is the black and red that gets the voltage. Seems that is right but then I hear power comes from stator on yellow wires so I'll check schematic
Any help or suggestions are appreciated. I want this boat as good as I can get it out of water before I drop her in. Girlfriend is getting antzy and its getting hot to be working on this in the shop. Thanks!