1997 sportster won't start with plugs in

[Moisture Missle]

My problems all started when I took the boat out, well the exhaust separated at one of the hose clamps. I had no tools with me so I tried to limp it back to shore and ended up fouling the plugs. I started to crank the boat it turned over a few times but then just went to clicking. So I just chalked it up to a dead battery at this point. Get it home and fix the exhaust, changed the plugs, still just clicks. I put it on the charger same thing just clicks. Put my car battery on still just clicks. I checked the cables they seem fine. Put a new starter on still clicks. It will turn over with the plugs out. Ive read about starters being weak, batteries, connections, etc. Any suggestions at this point? Thanks!

 

[Bills86e]

Remove both the Starter & Battery, take to auto part store and get a free <LOAD TEST>

 

[Moisture Missle]

Starter is new and I have a buddy bringing a new marine battery over tonight. Hope thats all it is.

 

[Moisture Missle]

New battery did not work. Any suggestions?

 

[Chester]

Did you test the starter relay? While pressing the start button, check for power at the starter side of the relay.

Chester

 

[Moisture Missle]

I bypassed it and had the same results.

 

[boby]

Have you figured this out yet? I had the exact same problem yesterday. Stalled it by fouling out the plugs and now I can't get it to turn over when it has compression. Pull the plugs and it cranks fine. Plugs in and it will just click or turn over once ever now and again. It's driving me crazy

 

[Chester]

I hope your "new" starter isn't one of those junk after market starters from e-bay. Is it OEM?

Chester

 

[Moisture Missle]

Have you figured this out yet? I had the exact same problem yesterday. Stalled it by fouling out the plugs and now I can't get it to turn over when it has compression. Pull the plugs and it cranks fine. Plugs in and it will just click or turn over once ever now and again. It's driving me crazy

No I have not, please keep me updated if you figure it out.

I hope your "new" starter isn't one of those junk after market starters from e-bay. Is it OEM?Chester

I bought it from Discount starter and alternator
http://discount-starter-alternator....froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle

 

[boby]

So far all I've figured out is that I had a lot of gas in my crankcase, although I don't think this was fouling the plugs. Since then I've pulled the carbs and am currently fixing that little problem. I've gotten it to crank with the plugs in it, but it takes my Jeep's battery to do so. It will not crank with the ski's battery. It just clicks. And now when it's cranking and it starts to run on it's own, it immediately dies and the starter disengages. So I'm still working on it for you, me, and my buddy who's is doing the exact same thing.

 

[Kawika]

I'm going through the same dang thing as well. I read somewhere that having too much gas/oil in the cylinder can cause this to happen too. Spraying carb cleaner (not sure if it's in the cylinder or the carbs) helps. The guy who mentioned this didn't specify. He actually took the whole head off to do this/clean the cylinders out but said it wasn't necessary and to do the carb spray. I'm waiting for his response as well. I'm wondering if it's either the starter relay or solenoid? Bad ground? It's very frustrating.

 

[searozz]

ahhhh same thing with me and im goin nuts.... plugs in low compresion, plugs out good compression, but spits out gas/oil mix... crank it till no more gas/oil mix spittin out, put plugs in and just boomp, booomp not click, click... tried another good battery, same thing just boomp, boomp...
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh:cuss:

 

[Bills86e]

your 717

1. Rotax motors, becauase they are the Highest HP two stroke engines, need BRP
oils designed for them. XP-S synthetic or Mineral oil. Other oils may have a degree
of ashless qualities, but can warp crank seals, and leak excessively into the lower
engine case.
2. Mikuni Carburetor(s) need disassembled and cleaned as regular yearly maintenance, and the needles & seats replaced every 2-3 years, along with the two
small 3/32"id x 6" long oil injection lines to the RV cover spigot, that inject the oil
into the gas & air mix that lubricate the raw crank journals & wrist pins, cylinders & seals. Useing a pressure gauge after re-assembly of carb(s) insure performance results.
3. Pinchering off the big oil line to the rotary shaft when storeing will help to keep
crank seal warpage to a minimum.
4. Replace the oil in-line filter to injection pump ervery 4-5 years, as oil will "jelly"
and cause premateur engine seizure shutdown.

 

[boby]

Well I got mine running. I took off the carbs and checked the diaphragms and pumps and needles and filters. Cleaned everything, them back on and viola! It runs again.