• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1997 seadoo gtx starter engaged but wont turn over

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have charged the battery it is 13.20 volts. When I go to start the starter engaged but it wont turn over. If I remove the spark plugs it turns over freely but right when I reinstall them it wont turn over. Also when the battery was 12.30v I was getting a 12v low on my guage idk what it considers low voltage.

Batery has new acid in it.

Starter has been rebuilt

Engine turns over by hand

Engine turns over with starter without spark plugs

If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated
 
Okay, when my '96 ski behaved this way.....I tried everything I could think of electrically....I changed out all the components....battery, starter, ignition coil, spark plugs, new cables, etc, etc....still wouldn't start, would turn over very strongly (especially with plugs removed).

Finally, the problem was the carbs......I was not getting fuel into the engine. Cleaned the carbs initially, ski started right up (eventually rebuilt carbs with Mikuni kits).

Simple test for a fuel issue.....remove spark plugs, pour a little pre-mix 40:1 gas into the holes, put plugs back in quickly hand tight...see if she'll start and run for a short period....that'll tell you that you are not getting fuel to the engine. The machine is 22 years old....has the fuel system ever been gone through? grey tempo fuel lines?
 
I
Okay, when my '96 ski behaved this way.....I tried everything I could think of electrically....I changed out all the components....battery, starter, ignition coil, spark plugs, new cables, etc, etc....still wouldn't start, would turn over very strongly (especially with plugs removed).

Finally, the problem was the carbs......I was not getting fuel into the engine. Cleaned the carbs initially, ski started right up (eventually rebuilt carbs with Mikuni kits).

Simple test for a fuel issue.....remove spark plugs, pour a little pre-mix 40:1 gas into the holes, put plugs back in quickly hand tight...see if she'll start and run for a short period....that'll tell you that you are not getting fuel to the engine. The machine is 22 years old....has the fuel system ever been gone through? grey tempo fuel lines?
What to you mean by Greta temple fuel lines

Also I tryed the fuel thing but it wouldn't turn over the starter just engaged
 
I

What to you mean by Greta temple fuel lines

Also I tryed the fuel thing but it wouldn't turn over the starter just engaged

Grey TEMPO fuel lines...the original fuel lines were GREY, Tempo I believe was the manufacturer. The fuel lines degrade internally and plug up the internal filters inside the carbs. Conventional wisdom dictates that all those lines should be removed and replaced with 1/4" black automotive fuel line (25' total). If you do that, you should also replace the fuel selector switch and replace/fix your gas sending unit (which may/may not be working (the internal F1 fuse on the fuel sending circuit board tends to blow and cannot be replaced without cutting the tube open)....used/fixed units are available.

When you say the starter just engaged....is the starter spinning the flywheel and pumping the cylinders?
 
The
Grey TEMPO fuel lines...the original fuel lines were GREY, Tempo I believe was the manufacturer. The fuel lines degrade internally and plug up the internal filters inside the carbs. Conventional wisdom dictates that all those lines should be removed and replaced with 1/4" black automotive fuel line (25' total). If you do that, you should also replace the fuel selector switch and replace/fix your gas sending unit (which may/may not be working (the internal F1 fuse on the fuel sending circuit board tends to blow and cannot be replaced without cutting the tube open)....used/fixed units are available.

When you say the starter just engaged....is the starter spinning the flywheel and pumping the cylinders?
Lines are all black automotive lines and no it just makes a clanking noise but dose not spin. But if you remove spark plugs is dose crank over the cylinders.
 
I don't like the description of a "clanking" noise....that just makes me envision bad stuff. Clanking noises are usually bad news.....like a broken rod flopping around inside the cylinder potentially.

Remove the plugs and put plastic straws or wooden dowels (bamboo skewers) into the spark holes and crank the engine....do the straws/dowels jump up and down alternating or get thrown out of the spark holes?

Have you tried to remove the starter itself and having it bench tested (any auto parts store can do that)....a weak starter that cannot spin the flywheel forcefully will never get the engine turned over fast enough to actually fire and start.

You need a really good strong battery at 12.6/7 volts to get that starter moving too.
 
I don't like the description of a "clanking" noise....that just makes me envision bad stuff. Clanking noises are usually bad news.....like a broken rod flopping around inside the cylinder potentially.

Remove the plugs and put plastic straws or wooden dowels (bamboo skewers) into the spark holes and crank the engine....do the straws/dowels jump up and down alternating or get thrown out of the spark holes?

Have you tried to remove the starter itself and having it bench tested (any auto parts store can do that)....a weak starter that cannot spin the flywheel forcefully will never get the engine turned over fast enough to actually fire and start.

You need a really good strong battery at 12.6/7 volts to get that starter moving too.
I know the clank noise is coming from the starter but yes I have taken the starter to the auto store to get tested it was bad but I rebuilt it but I guess the rebuild dident help I tested it on a battery before I put it in but mabe it is weak
 
I know the clank noise is coming from the starter but yes I have taken the starter to the auto store to get tested it was bad but I rebuilt it but I guess the rebuild dident help I tested it on a battery before I put it in but mabe it is weak
The conventional forum wisdom is that a rebuilt OEM starter is still better than an aftermarket starter. Is your starter OEM (that you rebuilt?) - DENSO brand or is your starter an aftermarket that you rebuilt?

I too have tested starters directly off a battery and I thought...seems perfectly good to me....but then I take it to a mechanic and he says - yeah, it works but it is too weak. Damned if they aren't always right!
 
Did you check for loose ground wire or positive wire? Possibly even a bad cable. They can corrode after that many years.

Really sounds like a weak starter but a bad ground or hot connection could be the culprit.
 
You need to test your battery. there's a huge draw on the battery when trying to engage the starter and is most likely the reason for the 12 volt low display. What do volts drop to when you hit the start button? If the battery checks out, check all cable connections and condition. They are known to corrode from the inside. If everything else checks out, I'm guessing it's your starter
 
When you turn it over without the plugs in, are you getting any oil spraying out the plug holes? Not sure how long your ski has sat, but if it has sat for an extended period of time it is possible that oil has leaked past the inner crank seals. With the plugs in, it hydro-locks and won't turn over
 
Last edited:
I agree with 32, my first move is a load test on the battery and check ground connections at the battery. Then follow the voltage to the electrical box, and then to the starter.
 
Some reference materials for your reading pleasure....
 

Attachments

Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top