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1997 GTX 6K RPM

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The valve is actuated by water pressure not exhaust.

BTW, I tired mine with the added o-ring form Lowes to stop it from leaking and it worked flawlessly for a full tank of fuel on Saturday.
 
The valve is actuated by water pressure not exhaust.

BTW, I tired mine with the added o-ring form Lowes to stop it from leaking and it worked flawlessly for a full tank of fuel on Saturday.
I used the gray stuff Ultra Gray but only a thin coat.
 
On a Modified engine a jet is installed to fine tune the volume of water and the cap is to tune the rpm it closes. After a test run splashing water on the pipe should barely sizzle, Factory Pipe tuning. More water is more bottom end power, dryer is more RPM. Just an FYI
 
On a Modified engine a jet is installed to fine tune the volume of water and the cap is to tune the rpm it closes. After a test run splashing water on the pipe should barely sizzle, Factory Pipe tuning. More water is more bottom end power, dryer is more RPM. Just an FYI

I would be very interested in that set u. I had Factory pipe on my SPI with a water solenoid that was adjustable. I used one of those laser pointer thermometers to get the temperature on the pipe. My question is, "How critical is the water flow amount going into the muffler? Does the standard jet need to be tightened up or enlarged?

What is the method used to decrease the water flow to the pipe? The valve does not shut it all the way off. Having it close early might help but not at top end.
 
The solenoid on your FP wasn't adjustable but the ECWI module controlled what RPM the pipe started getting water and the ECWI signal was PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to control how much water at different RPM was delivered to the spray tip in the head pipe The jet in the regulator controlled how much water went into the water box, the regulator adjuster controlled how much water went to the front sprayer, open the red adjuster (CCW) and the regulator would allow less water to the front sprayer. That's the basic setup. And even though pump fuel may say 91, 92, 92 etc doesn't mean all fuel the same "octane" number will run the same, R+M/2 = octane, but that's actually the "anti knock index" AKI, the crappy fuel uses a high Reseach octane component and low Motor octane component but added together and divided by 2 will equal the same as reversed components with lower R and higher M amounts but M is what makes power and resists detonation. Try this... fill your daily driver with AMPM and check mileage divided by cost then Chevron with same octane rated and check mileage / cost and see which is really the best cost per mile. Lee
 
Download the Seadoo Racing Handbook and it goes over replacing the WCV with a jet but you have to be very careful of debris plugging the jet.
 
This is the solenoid on the SPI I am referring to. The procedure was to adjust this device and check temperatures on the exhaust pipe. I mention this because I am curious as to the adjustment of the Water Control Valve on the GTX and it modifications can be made and tested based on the temperature of the exhaust pipe.

Question.... would anything need to be done to the jet size in the muffler? Larger jet would mean less water to the mid pipe or not enough change to affect anything?

A larger jet might also prevent the water control valve from closing at the proper time as "not enough back pressure" on the WCV bellows.

This is intriguing because my wifes. GTX smokes mine. It pulls hard initially and all the way to max RPM. Mine isn't slow but her's definitely performs better. Of course, I built the engine but nothing special there. Just good compression. :)


Jet Ski Exhaust device-E.jpg
 
Download the Seadoo Racing Handbook and it goes over replacing the WCV with a jet but you have to be very careful of debris plugging the jet.

I don't want to modify the existing systems just understand it better. If I can affect performance with a little tweaking.... I will. My only solution to getting beat by my wife is to ride the XP or switch to the RX I'm building. LOL
 
My bad, MIKI is right, it's the water control valve not an exhaust valve. Been lucky and haven't had any problems since last rebuild. That pic is a solenoid but it has no adjustment itself. I doubt doing all the exhaust tuning with a stock pipe even if you had the solenoid and Micro Touch ECWI you would feel much difference, if you had the Factory Pipe that would be a different story for sure. Buff your ski and do a switch with the wife's ski, and don't throttle past her riding together........
 
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