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1997 GSX Slow to rev down

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Yup. Pto seal is thrashed.

Luckily I have a wsm retailer around the corner so I have my kit.... just fighting with the flywheel now
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Ok at the risk of looking like an idiot...

I understand that I should be using 518 on the case bolt threads. I've looked everywhere for it and everyone looks at me cross eyed when I ask for it.

In lieu of that I opted to use blue loctite 242. I know I know, not proper.

Anyway. Start putting it back together and don't I run out of loctite after the main bearing bolts. Hardware store isn't close, threebond is setting, so I just grabbed ultra copper and applied it like thread locker.

Sitting here today, I really don't want to do this again if it doesn't hold so I want to fix it.

The bolts with rtv are all the smaller ones, last in the torque sequence.

Do you think I can get away with removing them one at a time in reverse sequence to remove the rtv and then apply loctite and re-torque? Or should I just pull it apart again?
 
Local NAPA has both 515 and 518 locite, about $15. I bought 515 lately (SM calls for it), I couldn't tell the difference comparing 518. Forget all the other auto places and hardware store big boxes, I tried all of them and NAPA was my last shot.
 
Yeah napas are few and far between here (at least in Ontario)... A bunch have closed up shop and now you end up with just Napa parts distributors that don't stock much of the other shop items that a corporate Napa does.
 
Screw it. I drove an hour out of my way home to find a tube of 518. I'm going to take it apart and do it again.
 
well glad i took it apart, for anyone reading this: RTV wasn't a good idea... Those bolts came out so easy they would have shook loose in a week. I also noticed that there's two round seals on the CB shaft close to the toothed gear. Where these seals are, some oil seeped between the case during assembly.

I just cleaned everything up yesterday before getting distracted by something else, still waiting to go back together.

How much 518 should i be putting on the bolts?
 
ok so putting final bits and pieces together last night....

A couple months ago i had bought two lengths of new oil injection line from home depot (tygon). bought two because i can use it for other things. Both had a label on it that said 3/32 ID. Went to go put it on and one roll turned out to be 1/8" ID, the other 7/64 ID. I guess i didn't notice because the OD was the same on both of them.

Obviously 1/8" ID is too big. the 7/64 isn't too bad and can be secured with zip ties... would the increased volume of the tubing affect anything? is it safe to use?
 
It is fine as long as it doesn't come off the nipples. The OEM hose fits super tight.
 
So pressure testing the case shows I have a leak into the cooling system...

If I remove the bolts for the head to replace all the o rings will the jugs get loose too or do they have more bolts underneath?
 
So manual answered my question on that. Now looking at it the book says to put 515 on o-ring groove of cylinder sleeves. Do I put it on all the o-rings or just the ones around the cylinders?
 
No, they won't loosen, there's those 4 bolts down inside each jug holding it to the case. The new gasket set didn't have the orings for the top? Using a little lithium grease, it helps seal the orings..
Oh it did but I didn't want to open it up if I didn't have to.
 
Oh it did but I didn't want to open it up if I didn't have to.

I'm misunderstanding, when you did the tear down to fix the vacuum leak you did it partial just the crank and bottom end? untouched certain parts like the top end?
 
I'm misunderstanding, when you did the tear down to fix the vacuum leak you did it partial just the crank and bottom end? untouched certain parts like the top end?
That's right. Pto crank seal was shot so I just resealed the bottom end. Shouldn't have planned on being lazy, no small job in an old house lol.
 
That's right. Pto crank seal was shot so I just resealed the bottom end. Shouldn't have planned on being lazy, no small job in an old house lol.

Ok, I understand now...I was trying to not to assume anything but since you had the engine out the ski....
 
Ok, I understand now...I was trying to not to assume anything but since you had the engine out the ski....
Yeah... I didn't want to find anything else to fix. I've kinda pieced together why the guy before me had issues but I didn't know what was done or bad things were damaged.

Everything pointed to an air leak on the pto side but I don't know if anything melted down.

Looking at the head cover I can see something came apart.

Picture is the pto side head, mag side is silky smooth. Is it safe to use it like this?
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Yes, just knock down any high spots or trash that might fall out.
I just smear the o-ring with a light coat of sealant.
 
I always do, but don't tell anyone.
Engine should hold 8 pis for a minimum of 10 minutes.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. Engine is back in and I went and had it aligned properly.

Just waiting on new bailer orings for the pump and rubber bushings for the lower half of the exhaust and I'm good to go.
 
So she's finally all back together, just got oil lines primed and idle set. She revs up then down like she's supposed to. I'm excited now and heading to the cottage tonight for an extra long weekend. Hopefully she's good to go.
 
Got it out today at least for a quick boot and she goes.

I have to really check out the transitions better tomorrow but holy crap am I happy now. Idles steady, goes when I hit the gas, I get by the rave transition no problem.

It's now turning more rpm than before. I hit 6850 no problem, previously I could get just over 6600 on a good day.

What should this motor ideally spin @ WOT?
 
6980-7050 ive hit 7100 once with a new build but that was with a stock prop.
 
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