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1996 Seadoo SPI HELP!

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AlexVieira

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So I picked up this 1996 Seadoo SPI super cheap last year and it has sat at my grandfathers since then. He got it started and last week and I asked him to have a friend compression test the engine... the guy claims both cylinders read a perfect 100 which seems unlikely and I plan to redo the test myself.

91FE8A06-C1B0-4044-844C-35339F95DE5D.jpeg I went to start her up today and it won’t turn over. Makes noise like it’s about to start and no clicking or anything. Tested the battery with a meter and it read 9.2V so I’m thinking I should charge the battery up. (Again it was just running last week, now it won’t.)

I decided I’d just wash it down today and while washing out the back I found some spider cracks around the jet pump in the rear. IS THIS SAFE or even worth repairing?
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Also the impeller edges seem to be a little banged up.... does that look salvageable? I hope this thing isn’t a lost cause I really wanted to clean it up and get riding. Any help would be tremendously appreciated!

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The battery is shot. At 9v it probably has a bad cell. You can have it load tested but it’s probably time for a new one.

I wouldn’t worry about those cracks. Looks like the pump might have taken a hit at some point but should be ok.

The impeller looks ok from the back but you really need to get under the ski and look at it from the front. It’s the leading edge and wear ring that get damaged the most and only visible from the front.
 
Thanks for such a quick response! Apparently the battery is new, at least within the last month or two so that sucks, I’ll still put it on a charger and see what happens for now but I’ll try and find another one to borrow so I can start it and compression test. I want to hit it tomorrow with the power washer.... I’ve also heard mixed things about being able to power wash the inside - should be fine right? Just want to clean it up. Kind of dirty but seems to be on the surface, so power washing would really do it some justice5BCF4477-3705-45F1-B328-1D0CB84B4FAE.jpeg
 
Use some super clean and just the water hose

Thanks for the advice! Ive heard simple green works really well and is better than purple power (don’t have super clean in my area) that should be fine too right? And sorry, I’ve read a lot of mixed opinions on this stuff and I’d rather be safe than sorry so that’s why I have so many questions
 
Simple green or purple power will both work, but not as well as super clean... you may have to take a brush to it to get into some of the tight spots, but it should come clean pretty quick.
 
Okay guys so I just bought a new battery today and it’s definitely sounding better but wouldn’t fully turn over. The spark plugs look fouled, and it still has the gray fuel lines that need to be replaced.
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I borrowed this generic compression tester and I made sure to use the right sized fitting. I initially took BOTH plugs out and tested completely cold.
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The magneto side was reading about 100psi and the other side read more around 105psi. After doing some more research I tried again while leaving one plug in at a time, hand-tight. Now both plugs are reading around 125psi. :( I hate to ask this question, but is it toast? Part of me is saying don’t bother fixing it up, I could buy a new(er) one. But part of the beauty here is it’s older and workable unlike the new stuff. I would love all the input I could get, what should I do next?
 
Simple answer...remove the carbs and clean them out...they will be gunked up, probably internal filters plugged.
 
Next, check all wiring harnesses and connections for corrosion. Reseat all electric connections.
 
Thanks dude, I'll pull the filter apart and try and get the carb out tomorrow. Should I just go ahead and replace the fuel lines while i'm at it?
 
Thanks dude, I'll pull the filter apart and try and get the carb out tomorrow. Should I just go ahead and replace the fuel lines while i'm at it?
Yes, might as well...general rule of thumb is 25’ of 1/4” automotive black fuel lines will do the deed. Get SS band clamps too to fit the hose OD.
 
Yes, might as well...general rule of thumb is 25’ of 1/4” automotive black fuel lines will do the deed. Get SS band clamps too to fit the hose OD.
Awesome! Do you think cleaning the carb and replacing fuel lines will allow me to get even a year out of it... I mean it's running, right? Things been out of the water for at least 3-4 years, I just don't want to do all this work to find out the engine needs to be gutted. Any simple way to tell if the engine is good besides pulling the head? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I read a lot of mixed opinions on the forums so better safe than sorry I guess.
 
Awesome! Do you think cleaning the carb and replacing fuel lines will allow me to get even a year out of it... I mean it's running, right? Things been out of the water for at least 3-4 years, I just don't want to do all this work to find out the engine needs to be gutted. Any simple way to tell if the engine is good besides pulling the head? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I read a lot of mixed opinions on the forums so better safe than sorry I guess.
Check the compression with another tester. If those compression readings you gave are accurate, the motor will need a top end rebuild at minimum. Check compression with a cold motor, full battery, plugs out, fuel off and throttle held wide open.

I would do another test before throwing time and money at anything else. If your compression is that low, it can start just fine on the trailer, but probably won't start in the water
 
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If you run as is or do a top end, either way you need to do the carb and fuel system.
 
Awesome! Do you think cleaning the carb and replacing fuel lines will allow me to get even a year out of it... I mean it's running, right? Things been out of the water for at least 3-4 years, I just don't want to do all this work to find out the engine needs to be gutted. Any simple way to tell if the engine is good besides pulling the head? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I read a lot of mixed opinions on the forums so better safe than sorry I guess.

Possibly, for sure change the fuel lines first and then take the carb apart and clean it good, drain any old fuel.

You have the same year and model that I have, I had to do the fuel lines and carb disassemble/clean and refill with fresh fuel to get it running properly. At 125psi your on the low end for compression but still should get some use out of it for a while, compression gauge could be innaccurate possibly as well.
 
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