RESTO 1996 Seadoo GTI rings

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I don't trust speedometers on any ski but this one is reading 51 or 52. The owner said it was running 47 before he brought it to me. I like GPS for speed runs. Ski has good power though. ! I love SeaDoos !!
 
Got my 80 grain springs today. Both carbs popping off at 51. Doing the 10 psi test for next hour. Hope to get a chance to try the carbs out tomorrow.
 
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They pass the 10 psi test. Hopefully this will resolve the carb flooding issue.
 
I know for sure the needles and seats on the one I'm working on are not Genuine. I put 115 springs in there and popping at 36. I like that you have them above 50 but not too high. Very good on the range !!
 
They are definitely black in color. I must have had the 95 gr springs in there as I was having a hard time getting PSI below 60. The ones that came with carb were at 41. Not black in color, but definitely in range.
 
People don't think there is a difference with the Genuine Mikuni. First thing I test on a carb is Pop-Off setting. That will usually let me know if the right seats and springs are in there. When I checked the 96" GTI I am working on now... both carbs popped at 15PSI and needles leaked badly. You know the range.... 36-60. People expect their carbs to work. Live and learn. Good job on the carbs !! They will reward you with good reliable performance.
 
Well she fired up and sounded good but then flooded out. I opened up the spark arrestor and gas sitting on the arrestor frame. Could a fuel valve that has failed caused these symptoms?
 
Same problem with fuel pooling that you started with. That gas is coming from some place. Did you follow Miki's Carb thread on the rebuild? I'm not sure but maybe that little bitty check valve is leaking. Remove the arrestor sounds almost like you are getting blow back through the carb pushing the fuel "out". Perhaps Miki or one of the guys can comment. I don't know if a bad rotary valve would cause this.
 
Found this on a google search, “
Mine just felt like it was running out of gas at anything pretty much above idle under load. On the trailer it was fine. Pin it out of the hole and it would launch hard and then fall flat, sputter and then die. Baby it up on plain and it was fine, pull it full and it would be fine for a sec and then just start to die... The valve fixed all of this 100%
Doug.” Maybe it’s starving for fuel? I ordered a oil tank valve and have the old one and it functions correctly as a one way valve so I have an extra. It’s a little larger, but could I use it if I find my fuel tank vent valve is bad. When I open the gas cap there is never a hiss like on my other skis?
 
I put in a new rotary valve. Marked exactly where the old one was and lined this one up perfectly. I guess it could be the engine side of the rotary valve since it had one scratch on its surface.
 
Yes I used his rebuild guide. If one of those small internal valves were leaking would the pressure test have detected it? Is there a way to check it?
 
Fuel tank vent valve is good. There is blow by coming through carb throats and will actually lift the arrestor grill upward. I bought this ski and trailer for $200, for the shorelander trailer. PO said motor was locked up and gave me the ski. After I pulled the pump, checked pistons/cylinders I found that he had dropped an carb arrestor bolt down the intake bending the rotary valve and making one fairly deep gouge on the engine side faceplate. I replaced the rotary valve and hoped there would be no problem. Guess I’m gonna have to get a new lower end and rebuild the motor or fine a good used donor engine.
 
Fuel tank vent valve is good. There is blow by coming through carb throats and will actually lift the arrestor grill upward. I bought this ski and trailer for $200, for the shorelander trailer. PO said motor was locked up and gave me the ski. After I pulled the pump, checked pistons/cylinders I found that he had dropped an carb arrestor bolt down the intake bending the rotary valve and making one fairly deep gouge on the engine side faceplate. I replaced the rotary valve and hoped there would be no problem. Guess I’m gonna have to get a new lower end and rebuild the motor or fine a good used donor engine.

Ah, there's a deeper background or history... did you check the RV timing when you replaced the RV? PTO @ TDC and a degree wheel?.... I wouldn't throw the towel in on a motor rebuild so quick, you have solid compression and decent carbs. Bottom end is spinning and not making horrendous noises correct? If nothing is down in the engine, you could try a new RV cover, RV and re check the timing. Also, wouldn't hurt to ck RV clearance, if it's out of spec can cause scavenging between cylinders etc. That can be fixed by having the RV cover lip and oring seat machined.
 
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I'd build it. Finding a good used engine is a crap shoot. Do it "once", :) But first I'd figure out what's going on.
 
Yeah it’s driving me crazy. Outside of the rotary valve I can’t think of anything else it could be. The carb was built with OEM MIKUNI parts. Unless I damaged one of the internal carbs check valves, I can’t figure this one out.
 
Yeah it’s driving me crazy. Outside of the rotary valve I can’t think of anything else it could be. The carb was built with OEM MIKUNI parts. Unless I damaged one of the internal carbs check valves, I can’t figure this one out.

As I replied above have you verified the RV timing is correct with a degree wheel? You stated you marked and replaced it exactly how it was...
 
I did not verify it with a degree wheel. It didn’t appear the Rv cover had ever been removed. If it is off a small amount could it cause my symptoms? It cranks first crank and will idle but boggs applying any throttle.
 
Your problem is the gouge in the cases. It’s causing the inlet charge of one cylinder blow back on the other one. This is what’s causing the blowback into the air cleaner.

Your only solution is to get a set of clean used cases.

Contact Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports Seadoo.
 
Concerning the gouge between the cases. I've used metal compounds to make repairs. Not the stuff on the shelves at stores of course but if prepared correctly It'd be cool to give some of that stuff a shot. Course... the engine was locked up previously.... good idea to rebuild or replace. Reliability is a good goal.
 
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I thought about trying a metal compound. What specifically did you use? Motor wasn’t really locked up. The arrestor bolt was keeping the RV from being able to turn. If that fails then new cases will be bought. I was afraid that might be the problem and cause of the blowback.
 
I did not verify it with a degree wheel. It didn’t appear the Rv cover had ever been removed. If it is off a small amount could it cause my symptoms? It cranks first crank and will idle but boggs applying any throttle.

You don't no if it's correct or not, so you can't rule it out., It could have jumped time, RV gear stripped, PO removed the cover or RV, you don't know until you verify.
 
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