1996 GSX hard starting after carb rebuild.

[cmeseadoin]

Hey all.....

I have a 1996 GSX with the 787 in it. I just finished rebuilding the carbs on my ski and it seemed to run ok on the water hose. I thought it was a little hard to start but attributed that to the fact the carbs were dry. Everything was switched out in the carbs and the low speed T handle shaped needles were reset to where they were before.

Well, came home from work tonight and decided to take it to the river and water test. I tried cranking it really fast on the trailer and NOTHING, cranked and cranked even with choke out. I used the same starting process as I used to before the rebuild and it would not do anything. Shot some fluid down the plug holes and finally fired and got going (hmm seems lean right...keep reading)

Im having the SAME symptoms as JBLEGG83 who has the same boat:

He said in a posting from 3/9/09:

"I just completed a complete carb rebuild and I replaced the grey fuel lines on my 96 GSX. I reinstalled the carbs and the engine fired up and ran great on the hose. I took it out for a test drive a week later and it seemed like it was hard to start, then when it did start, it seemed like it was only running on one cylinder. I pushed it a little and it got on top and then seemed like to run like a champ, WOT was at or just under 7K. But when I got back to the ramp and tried to start it again, I had to crank and crank to get it going. I never seemed to have this problem before the rebuild. The motor has 158 hours on it and I installed a primer kit. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks."

SAME ISSUE for me!! I never had this trouble before. She is FINE at WOT and anything above idle, but if I turn it off after riding and let it sit for more than a minute, I have to GRIND and GRIND and feather the throttle and she'll finally catch. When it does, it is like one cylinder fires and then the other and "ping ping pa pa ping ping ping" and then after mashing the throttle a few times she'll clear out what seems to me to be a RICH condition and then act normally. It bogs though so as to indicate that she's really rich and you have to just crank like no tomorrow and then mash it a few times to clear excess fuel...I even think it looks to me like more blue smoke when this happens.

I saw in JBLEGG83's posting that they eventually put the original springs back in the carbs AND readjusted their needles to 1 and .25 turns out each to solve the issue. Mine are about 1 and 1/8 turns out and that is what I measured before pulling them apart. These are the ones that have a "T" on the end of the needle right? That is low speed? The other screws I did not touch with the stop on them so they can only rotate X degrees one way and X the other. Those are left where they were.

I am curious as to what we think FIXED his issue since he put springs in AND adjusted the needles? I have the SAME BOAT and the SAME problem after the same carb. rebuild. What do you guy think?? If I bog when starting and have to crank and crank, seems to me I am rich?? Or am I lean? I did notice tonight that if I hold the throttle WOT when cranking, it helps. Please help, I'm highly annoyed because it runs so good yet has become a BIT-H to start

 

[cmeseadoin]

In addition, I am reading about this pop off test. I dont have much exp. with carbs...can someone explain what you are doing when you do the test? I know you have the needle and seat in there which connects to the pivot arm thing that has the spring applying backpressure on it to keep the needle pressing INTO the seat and thus sealed. I am ASSUMING the pop off pressure is the pressure at which through that orifice of the carb that the NEEDLE will come AWAY from the seat, thus allowing flow. The leak down is making sure that the spring pressure of the needle into the seat is such that there is no pressure leakdown?

Where do you hook the tester to test this, to what ports on the carb? I dont have a tester either and really dont, at this point, know enough to know what I am looking for or doing. I need someone to explain it to me like im an idiot even though I'm not :cheers:

I replaced my springs (the little spring that presses the pivot arm) with the new ones in the mikuni sbn kits from SBT. They are probably longer. Someone somewhere mentioned a "black" spring...what is that? I'm thinking I need to tear these carbs out again and put the original springs and pivot arms back in my carbs. I wish to god now that I had not touched the carbs as my ski ran really fine.....I just took someone's advise to rebuild them because they were famous for running lean at my hours, 290. I have 150psi in both cylinders, my engine is tight as a drum. These carbs are a PITA to deal with but looks like from that I glean on here that those springs are the devil incarnate. Why the HELL dont you get told to leave ORIGINAL parts in there if putting the new ones in is going to F-it up!!??:reddevil:

 

[cmeseadoin]

Ok, so no one seems to want to respond so I will talk to myself here.......even though I would like some feedback from some of you guys that are more knowledgeable in this arena.

I took my carbs out and put the original springs back in and thought I might have something...took it on the river yesterday, still did exactly what I described in my threads above. Shut it off and recrank IMMEDIATELY, will start...if it sits for more than 30 seconds you will crank a little and feather throttle and it will start, if it sets for ten minutes you're gonna crank for three minutes. Once it does start, you must hold throttle WIDE open and she'll just barely stay running and graaaaadually clear herself out, I can smell raw unburned fuel rising off the water, blue smoke in excess and then she'll be fine. Run flawlessly once you get through this process.

I listened to the advice of everyone, put original N/S springs back in carb (even though I have though she's too rich the whole time) and that has done nothing as I predicted knowing what I know. I have a 1976 buick with a 455 V8 that did this EXACT same thing. If you cut her off and started it back up within a few minutes, you just had to stab the key. If she sat, you went and ate and came back out of whatever, you had to crank and crank and crank and you'd smell raw fuel and then when it fired you were RICH RICH RICH and had to mash it a few times to clear it, then it was fine. This SEADOO, same EXACT thing. I can smell raw fuel....for some reason, I am loading my engine up with unburned gasoline when it is sitting, almost like the Buick which turned out to have too high a float setting in the carb so it was getting hot when she shut off and boiling over down into the intake flooding her causing way too rich of a condition upon recrank.

I came home and checked my LSA. I was out on both about 1 and 1/4. I reset both to 3/4 out and on the trailer, I might see a diff, not sure. The problem on the trailer is that the starter can spin the engine over faster because there is no drag on the crankshaft. This equals firing faster than when I am in the water having to crank more. I still dont think it is right and I am puzzled at what can be causing this hard to start condition. All I did was rebuild the carbs and I have had them apart two more times checking my work. The ONLY thing in a carb rebuild that I can see changing what it was PRIOR to the rebuild are the springs. My N/S are the same in both carbs, were not replaced. I dont mind a little cranking as the ski is 13 years old and has 287 hours on the engine, but this issue totally cropped up after the rebuild. Other than that, she accelerates fine and runs great. God help you if you dont have a good battery though, you'll be paddling. Any technical thoughts from anyone? Would be nice to at least get one GOOD reply ;-) :cheers:

 

[popasodatastie]

try this

have you check your plugs to make sure they are gapped corectly or not fouled out you did say that you smelt unburned fuel, also check your fuel water seperator make sure theres not alot of water, another thing do you have spark after you let it set for a while.

 

[cmeseadoin]

have you check your plugs to make sure they are gapped corectly or not fouled out you did say that you smelt unburned fuel, also check your fuel water seperator make sure theres not alot of water, another thing do you have spark after you let it set for a while.

Thanks for the reply! I replaced the plugs with bran new plugs when I did the carbs and the wear ring/jet pump oil. So they are bran new. I have not checked for spark, but that is a good thing to check. I guess I could shut it off out in the water and just pop a plug wire, stick another plug in the wire and grind it like I was trying to start it and see if she sparks. I am fairly sure I do. What is the fuel / water separator? Thanks!

 

[cmeseadoin]

I could always pop the old plugs back in too just to make sure one of my new ones is not bad? It was running fine with them...Process of elimination!

 

[cmeseadoin]

Ok here is the latest.....checked my fire during this extended cranking, got plenty of spark to the plugs. I even cut off some wire and put in bran new ends just to make SURE that was not it. I popped in the old plugs which were working fine (just decided to put new ones in) and took her to the lake this afternoon.

Got there and my god, thought I was gonna drain the battery cranking on the trailer before dropping in water....it FINALLY started firing then the starter would miss and I'd have to let the bendix stop spinning and then recrank again once it could grab the flywheel teeth. After doing this for about 5 minutes, I was able to hold her wide open and she finally fired and stayed running but barely. It was blowing out a smoke cloud of oil smoke and raw fuel odor like mad. I eventually was able to gun the engine enough to clear it all out and shut her off. This is the hard starting I am talking about!!! Pulled one of the plugs and to my affirmation, SOAKED in fuel. It aint that I am NOT getting fuel, I am getting way too much....

Put it in the water and was able to crank and crank again once I parked my jeep and got it going....it was running poorly as it was clearing itself in the water again after being shut off for five minutes as I parked the jeep. Got out past the no wake zone and mashed it and took off like normal, running fine. Blew it out really good and then shut it off out in the lake.....took my tools to adjust low speed while out there to see if I could tune it out. Long story short, NOTHING I did with adjustments equally on both carbs made ANY difference in this fuel loading up issue.

Bottom line, I am going to pull my carbs again (already took air box and plenum off the carbs so I could adjust out in the water) and build them back with the old parts I took out. Im going to soak every old gasket and low speed oring in fuel to make them moist again and put them back and see if I cannot get back to where I was. The ONLY thing in my carbs that needed replacing were the filters and hell, Im gonna clean the originals and put those back in too and hope that I am I have been messing with engines since I was 5 years old so I am NO idiot, and you have NO idea how sorry I am that I listened to that saleman at SBT over the phone telling me that with my aged ski and my hours, that I should rebuild my carbs. It'll be the last time I take someone's advice with regards to a matter like this. My damn ski was running fine and now I took some salesman's advice and have MORE issues than I have ever had before and its all because I messed with something that was not broken. :reddevil: If that does not work, I'll buy two bran new carbs for it regardless of how much it costs. I dont care about the money. I want my ski running like it was and everything changed after I F'd with the carbs! It is NOTHING more than a fuel delivery issue. :rant: Thanks for letting me vent, I am pissed off as hell at myself for listening when I know more and better than to F with something that is working fine.:boxing_smiley:

 

[cbjrumble]

Couple things to check.

-Did you gap your new plugs to spec? I don't believe it is the issue but the guy above asked you and you never responded.

-I would say for sure you have fuel delivery issue. The doesn't mean its the carbs. My guess is your carbs are fine if you put them back together correctly. I would use your old spring then you shouldn't have to worry about Pop off pressure.

What color are your fuel lines? If they are grey you need to replace them. If they are grey Im going to venture to guess you probably need a top end rebuild. Get your hands on a compression tester, test the compression on both cylinders. If you are unsure about how to do this let me know.

Replace any grey fuel line you have with regular fuel line from autozone, advanced auto, etc.

Check/clean the front fuel filter.

Check/clean the fuel selector.

If you have done all of this and it all checks out then maybe consider new carbs but even then I highly doubt thats your problem.

 

[cmeseadoin]

Couple things to check.

-Did you gap your new plugs to spec? I don't believe it is the issue but the guy above asked you and you never responded.

Yes, the plugs are bran new and gapped correctly. As I described above, I also tried it with the old plug which were working fine. Same problem.

I would say for sure you have fuel delivery issue. The doesn't mean its the carbs. My guess is your carbs are fine if you put them back together correctly. I would use your old spring then you shouldn't have to worry about Pop off pressure.

I def. have a fuel delivery issue. I know that from the symptoms that I have and my experience with gasoline powered internal combustion engines. I scientifically determined it by pulling a spark plug while experiencing this long cranking issue and finding my plugs absolutely SOAKED in fuel.

What color are your fuel lines? If they are grey you need to replace them. If they are grey Im going to venture to guess you probably need a top end rebuild. Get your hands on a compression tester, test the compression on both cylinders. If you are unsure about how to do this let me know.

They are the stock grey ones that everyone hates. Mine were completely gone over and cleaned from one end to the other even though there is no internal degradation or signs of failure. I was going to replace them but seeing the condition of them, decided against it knowing if I had any issues, look there first. My problem is not starving for fuel, my problem is that the engine is flooding after it is run and shut off. (IE. as if pop off pressure too low)

Check/clean the front fuel filter.

I see the filter up front under where the removable storage compartment is, but I am not sure how it comes off the ski as I dont want to break it. Do you just replace this or is there a way to unscrew and clean?

Check/clean the fuel selector.

It's working as designed.

As far as compression....dead on 150 in both cylinders. :cheers:

This entire problem started the minute I rebuilt the carbs. I had the ski out on the water the day before and it was running just fine. I am 99.9% sure the carbs are the issue and it is something to do with pop off pressures. I thought by reinstalling the stock springs, I'd have something but nope. SO, I am now going to build a pop off gauge this afternoon and tear the carbs down again. It is time to get scientific with it. The problem I am having is totally carb induced, I'm certain of that. As said in a previous thread, I have a 1976 car with a 4bbl rochester quadrajet I rebuilt and had my float settings in my carb set too high and it was doing the EXACT same thing. If you immediately recrank it was fine, but once she sat, the fuel was superheating once I shut the engine down and vaporizing down into the engine making it such that I had to crank and crank to get it fired back up, and when it did fire, it was flooded and I had to gun it a few times to clear it out. This ski is just a different piece of machinery, SAME exact symptoms.

 

[cmeseadoin]

I made a pop off tester from parts at Lowes....$29.00...Probably could have done it cheaper but I wanted a good tester. One of the other guys did a fantastic write up on this and I was basically planning the same thing, so here are some pics. :cheers: I tried to attach a pic so here it is, hoping it works so everyone can see it. It's raining here today, so cannot pull off my tarp and cover and work on ski. I have the ski out of my shop and at my house, but no room for it inside because of all my cars and bikes LOL.....Will have to wait for better weather to pull the carbs out again.

 

[cmeseadoin]

Ok, pulled carbs out of the ski again tonight and since I have my pop up tester made and ready, what I did was to pull each cover plate off over the needle and seat side of the carbs and then removed the diaphragm. I then checked pop off pressure by blocking all ports to the carb with block off caps except the fuel inlets. I used the tester on those inlets and this is what I came up with after doing the tests multiple times and averaging it out since it is not exactly the same each time.

MAG SIDE:
Initial - 33-35psi

PTO SIDE:
Initial - 19psi

Spec for these Mikuni sbn's is 23-43psi (could PTO side be flooding my rear cylinder at 19psi??) which IMO is a huge range. I made some adjustments and changed the PTO spring and came up with the following:

MAG SIDE:
Final - 35psi

PTO SIDE:
Final - 38-39psi

Now, the questions is....this test is SUPPOSED to be done with the diaphragm cover and diaphragm out...correct? I ask because I put the two diaphragms back in and then tested each carb, and because the center of the diaphragm works the rocker arm of the mechanism that drives the needle, I lost all pressure slowly down to waaaay low...close to zero...because that diaphragm just lightly applies pressure to the rocker arms. Is the spec 23-43psi supposed to be seen ON THE BENCH and with the carbs apart....because I surely dont have those pressures with everything together, only torn apart, diaphragm out!

Please advise! Thanks!:cheers:

 

[chasenfish16]

Please let us know what you figure out, I am having the exact same problem after rebuilding the carbs on a 98 XP. I am guessing on mine is that the rocker arm for the needle was a bit higher then being flush with the surrounding assy when I looked at them. I left them alone thinking they were working fine. Before I rebuilt the carbs, I never had a starting issue. I read a post somewhere that some of the aftermarket diaphrams have a larger knob that pushes on the needle when the cover is installed causing a flooding condition. This is what I am going to look at when I get a chance to pull them back off. Hope this helps. I do not think mine is a pop off pressure problem because I used the original springs.

 

[chasenfish16]

I meant a 95 XP in the previous post.

 

[chasenfish16]

I saw a SBT package on your bench looking at the picture of your Pop off tester, did you buy your rebuild kit from them??? Just curious, that is where I bought mine and we are having the same exact problem.

 

[chasenfish16]

Look at your old diaphrams, I looked at mine. The button on the inside of the diaphram that contacts the needle rocker arm appears to be the same length as the old one but there is a button on the opposite side that is alot longer. I am guessing when we are putting the cover on it is causing the rocker arm to open the needle valve slightly. This would explain why you are losing your pop off pressure with the diaphram and cover installed, I wouldn't think that should happen.

 

[cmeseadoin]

Look at your old diaphrams, I looked at mine. The button on the inside of the diaphram that contacts the needle rocker arm appears to be the same length as the old one but there is a button on the opposite side that is alot longer. I am guessing when we are putting the cover on it is causing the rocker arm to open the needle valve slightly. This would explain why you are losing your pop off pressure with the diaphram and cover installed, I wouldn't think that should happen.

Hey! Thank GOD... someone else that can relate. As mechanical as I am, this is bugging the HELL out of me, LOL. I have really got these carbs under a microscope now and I think you are on to something!!! It all started coming to fruition when I began running pop off tests on my needles and seats under various conditions and started analyzing things more scientifically and closely.

Yes, the carb rebuild kits for both carbs are the SBT Mikuni SBN1 rebuild kits, I bought two of them. My problem started no later than the MINUTE I installed them in my carbs. I take it you have read my detailed threads about the problems I am having, and it is totally loading up on fuel after being shut off to the point I have to crank it for extended times to get it fired, then it is running WAY too rich until it is cleared out.....

I am starting to think I see why now.....with my new diaphrams in, I think I am losing all my pop off pressure resistance because the new knob on the inside is slightly working the pivot arm causing that pressure to bleed off and the flip side of that is that I am loading my engine with a way rich fuel flow.

I stuck my same original springs back in and still had the issue, so that tells me something else has changed....Well, the new diaphrams have been in the whole time so that is the variable that I have not changed. I think when I get home from work, I am going to install the old ones back in the carbs and retest pop off. I would SERIOUSLY think that there should be NO loss in pop off pressure when the diaphrams are in the carbs and the cover plates are on. IN other words, I should see the same pressure held with the carbs apart or put together.....THE ONLY variable I wondered about was, maybe with the carb dry as I took it apart, having no fuel under that diaphram might cause it to press the pivot arm more than when the carbs are primed in normal operation and normally with fuel all in that chamber????? What do you think?

Also, I took a look at my pivot arms with respect to how they sit in comparison to the top of the carb body.....both pivot arm ends that the diaphram works sit juuust slightly ABOVE the rest of the carb surfaces on either side, such that if you take a straight edge like a razor blaze and run it across, it depressed the pivot arm just a little which cracks the needle/seat open and loses pressure. I pumped up my carbs to "pop off" and then used a straight razor blade over the pivot arm and that little bit of depression caused me to lose all my pressure. This further exacerbates the arguement that when that is the case, AND you install the diaphram, its no wonder I hold no pressure with the carbs put together!! This cannot be correct? Should that pivot arm be bent so that it sits perfectly flat or? I need to know exactly how to set all that up....thoughts?

So, you are having the same problem? What have you done so far and figured out? Im going to get to the bottom of this if it is the last thing I do, because I am highly annoyed.....it is something simple. I need to go look at my diaphrams and CLOSELY compare them to the old ones. Fortunately, my old ones are fine and can be stuck back in easily. No rips, or tears or pin holes.

 

[cmeseadoin]

I saw a SBT package on your bench looking at the picture of your Pop off tester, did you buy your rebuild kit from them??? Just curious, that is where I bought mine and we are having the same exact problem.

Yeah, what you see on the bench is my Jet Pump rebuild kit that I did not need when I did the wear ring and jet pump oil change. Thank the lord I did not need it, I don't have the specialty bearing pullers and seal tools for that jet drive, would have had to buy them which I will do later down the road should I need to install the kit......My wear ring and jet drive is great....once I get the damn engine cranked and running LOL!

 

[chasenfish16]

I will not be able to get to them for a week I will be on vacation for a week starting this afternoon and will not have regular access to a computer. I have the exact problem you do from right after rebuilding my carbs with the SBT kit. When I get a chance I am going to either bend the arm flush with the surrounding body or put the old diaphrams back in. I would prefer to use the new parts if possible. To answer your question when I first relized I had this problem I pulled the carbs back off and retore them all the way back down thinking I put something in wrong. Which of course I didn't.

 

[chasenfish16]

Please let me know how you fix yours by either bending the needle arm down a little or reinstalling the old diaphrams. I am with you this is bugging the heck out of me by spending good money and time only to have it run worse.

 

[cmeseadoin]

Please let me know how you fix yours by either bending the needle arm down a little or reinstalling the old diaphrams. I am with you this is bugging the heck out of me by spending good money and time only to have it run worse.

I could not agree more! I am tempted to call SBT and explain to them all of the problems I have incurred as a result of "their salesman's recommendation" and their parts. I assure you that I installed it all correctly, I double and triple checked my work as I did it and am no novice to mechanical things. If you are going to make a product that is supposed to be of high level engineering, then you need to tell your customers a HELL OF A LOT more than, oh just check your pop off pressures! As we have found out, there seems to be differences in the engineering of these new parts that differ enough from the old that we are having issues.

Going forward, I am going to keep my pop off springs where they are I think....if I recall I have about 35ish on both carbs with is two psi higher than exactly in the middle of the 23-43psi range. The middle makes sence to me! I then am going to compare diaphragms and see what I see...and reinstall the OLD ones. If that solves my issue, I am going to call SBT and let them know what I think. I have WASTED so much time and frustration with this and not for nothing, I took their somewhat good advise but I messed with something that was supposed to better it, and what does it do but make it WORSE. That is ridiculous and I am not happy. If I have to run OLD parts in my carbs I am going to be pissed. I guess I could keep the old pivot arms and bend the new ones flush and try that with the NEW diaphragms, but then if that does not work, then I am pulling carbs again. LOL!

I have found that if you just bolt the carbs in and hook up all the linkages, you can run the ski on the water fine with NO breather box and no air box installed. This makes access to remove the carbs AGAIN a lot simpler and less time consuming. I am not reinstalling all that sh__ till I get her right!

I will let you guys know what I find!

I hope you have a nice vacation! I am supposed to be taking my ski to my buddies new house on this huge lake in Va. called Smith Mountain Lake and leaving it up there on his lift.....hell, I am trying to fix it by this weekend so I can get it up there. Screw this carb rebuild!

 

[HappyMongo]

Hi Guy's

Im having the same problem but am about to fit a mikuni kit not a SBT, from what reserch I have done the pin arm should sit flat on the body and you should bend to get that way.
Be carefull and hold the pin on the pivot while bending, to stop damage to the pin or seat.

Im fitting mine on the weekend as my MAG was running far to rich, Fingers crossed.

GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE LET ME KNOW ANY OUTCOME:cheers:

 

[cmeseadoin]

The fix!!!!!!!!!!!

Alright folks, looks like I have it figured out and running back to normal again.....

Came home from work and started looking at my carbs again. To make a long story short, I basically calibrated VERY carefully both pop off pressures to 33-35psi each, bent the pivot arms such that they are PERFECTLY flat with respect to the rest of the carb bodies, and put my original diaphragms that are in good shape back in. Fired it up...perfect. Have not water tested but the problem presented itself very much so on the trailer as well. I ran it on the hose and got the carbs all primed again and working fine and full of fuel.....shut her off and on with various times in between and when I hit the button I just tapped it quick and RIGHT to life she came....no running rich, no nothing but running RIGHT.

Now for the process.....you HAVE GOT TO get or make a pop off tester. I made mine to run on shop air from my compressor and used a 160 psi gauge from lowes and all the fittings as I describe way up in that thread. It cost 29 bucks.

It turns out I was wrong in my view of what POP OFF pressure actually is. I was thinking I could block off all ports on the carbs except the fuel supply, hook my gauge to that port and blast it with air and then shut my pop off pressure tester valve and lock the pressure in it and the point at which the pressure fails to drop lower than is the pop off pressure. Well, it is a little different. What you do is hook your gauge up, depress the pivot arm so that the needle dislodges from the seat and spray some wd-40 down in there. Release the pivot arm and let it seat, then EVER so slowly crack the valve on your tester with shop air running to it until the needle on your gauge slowly rises and watch it as it climbs....once you hit pop off pressure you will hear that needle go PSHHHHHHHH and blow off or POP off. THAT initial pressure point is what you are looking for. I ran the test about ten times to make sure it was about the same PSI every time. Do this to each carb and keep retuning your spring until you get both as close as you can. I got mine to pop off at about 35psi each. Perfect! You need to shoot that needle and seat up with WD-40 or gasoline each time to test again and be accurate because when it pops off, it blows it out.

Now, once I had attained a 35 psi pop off on a carb, I'd then shoot up the needle and seat with wd-40 again and then reinstall the diaphragm and put two diagonal screws in the cover plate and hand tighten them so I could run the test with the cover on and listen for the pop off. I'd retest and make sure that my pressure pop off point did not change and it did not. I reused the old diaphragms, the HELL with the news ones. I think the new ones are at least part of the problem.

So, in summary.....you want your pivot arm perfectly flat with respect to the carb.....you want to equalize your pop off pressures about in the middle of the 23-43psi range (33-35) and you want to make sure you test that pop off pressure with cover and diaphragm removed then get the SAME reading with it back on. Once this checks, put those carbs back in and fire that engine. The difference is NIGHT and DAY! If anyone has specific questions, feel free to ask. I cannot wait to water test, I am sure it's going to be just fine. :hurray::cheers:

 

[Dr Honda]

Hey cmeseadoin…

Did you get a chance to put it on the water this weekend? I have a buddy who has carbs that are bleeding down after it sits (same as you) and he has been bugging me to look at it for him… but I haven’t had the time. I figure it was losing pop-off pressure, and I figure it was his needle and seat… but if this works for you… it will make it a faster job for me. I’ll just order new seats, and Mikuni diaphragms before I yank his carbs.

Thanks for all your hard work on this… and posting up want you find.

Oh… BTW… once I do his carbs… I will post back here, and we will have a double confirmation of this issue, and it’s fix.

 

[chasenfish16]

Glad to hear you got it fixed, did you ever try the pop off test with the new diaphrams and the covers bolted on after you bent the arms? I hate to put my old diaphrams back on after buying new ones. Did you see the button on the back side of the new SBT diaphrams I was talking about? I think that is what is causing the problems with mine. Did you have any problems bending the arms and getting them flush with the carb body? how much did you have to bend them?

 

[spikedbat]

I'm having the exact same problem my engine is filling up with fuel after it sits. Impossible to start and floods badly. Take plugs out to drain and its like a volcano of fuel shooting out of the rear cylinder.

I (tore down and cleaned) my carbs prior and probably messed up the seating, never tested pop off pressure but I guess i'm going have to go ahead and do this now.
Initially when I bought the boat buddy was running used engine oil in the 2 stroke tank. I noticed and drained and cleaned right away.
When it was running it was shooting a oozing goo out of the exhaust pipe. I removed the rear can and it was half full of fuel. I thought that was my problem but was still flooding. Gotta get this issue sorted.

going to built a pop off tester and re-check.

Great post and thanks for going into details.

ps. you should write a manual on this subject :hurray: