I’m not sure what you mean by this... The RAVE valves are pressure actuated in the exhaust, so there is no manual opening of them. If the springs are removed from them or the caps are taken off, the motor will have a hard time getting past that rev range as well.I open up the valves of the engine is still the same,
valves open when engine starts
As jts32 has stated where the rectifier is and what it looks like....there are 3 yellow wires and 1 red wire as part of the rectifier. The yellow wires take AC voltage generated by the stator inside the engine and the rectifier converts that to AC voltage for the ski's electrical needs and to also keep the battery maintained above 12.5/12.6 for the next start cycle of the machine.what is the rectifier.
As jts32 has stated where the rectifier is and what it looks like....there are 3 yellow wires and 1 red wire as part of the rectifier. The yellow wires take AC voltage generated by the stator inside the engine and the rectifier converts that to DC voltage for the ski's electrical needs and to also keep the battery maintained above 12.5/12.6 for the next start cycle of the machine.
To test your stator.....remove the 3 yellow connections to the rectifier and hold them in your hand, using a voltmeter set to the OHMs scale, test the wires 1-2, 1-3, 2-3.....you should get roughly .5/.6 between the pairs (all equal or pretty close - I got .6, .6, .5 (close enough)). Reconnecting the yellows doesn't matter just match the connections (male to female). This will tell you if your stator is OK. Machine is NOT running for this test btw.
A running machine with a good rectifier will put out roughly 13.5 to 14.5 V DC out of the rectifier onto the RED wire. That RED wire then feeds the ski the DC voltage it needs and keeps the voltage on the wire back to the battery side of the solenoid post. A simple way to test is the rectifier is working properly is to meter the voltage at the battery with the ski running...you should see 13.5 to 14.5 at the battery....if its bouncing all over the place...suspect bad rectifier....if you see 12.5 therabouts steady (good battery voltage).....the rectifier could be faulty OR you don't have continuity on the wires through the ski from the rectifier back to the battery (so test all wiring through the ski for corrosion, etc...)
The two large red wires are going to your starter solenoid. Underneath the solenoid you will find the rectifier. Unplug the red wire from the solenoid and see if your rpm's improve.Thank you for your interest attached to my mpem
The two large red wires are going to your starter solenoid. Underneath the solenoid you will find the rectifier. Unplug the red wire from the solenoid and see if your rpm's improve.
With the red wire unplugged, your battery will not be charging, so don't run for an extended period of time.
With the boat on the trailer and shift lever in gear, are you able to rev to full rpm? If yes, your limiter is not the problem, as the boat doesn't know if it's in the water or not.
If you are hitting full rpm on the trailer, my guess would be your RAVE valves aren't opening under load. Had that issue with a couple of skis. New RAVE valves and bellows and all good
what yammi installed. I have to replace a 787 on a 97 challenger120 hp Yamaha engine installed I got rid of Seadoo