RESTO 1995 XP Stator Stuck!

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I bought this Sea-Doo, about a month a go and can’t get it to idle, I have gas, air, but lack of quality spark. So I decide to go after the Stator. I have removed the Stator housing cover, and broke the torque on the nut. I took the lock washer off and reinstalled the nut about 3 turns so the ring gear downs shoot off. I have about 1/4 inch gap from the nut to the ring gear. I put my harmonic balancer puller on and started to tighten it down. Not moving. I heated it up with a heat gun. No help. I stood the engine up vertical and let penetrating oil sit on top of the shaft to soak in. As the puller is tight, heat gun on it, and penetrating oil going somewhere, I’ve begun to tap on the puller to try to shock it to loosen up.... STILL STUCK!

Send help! Any ideas?
 
More heat. You say you are using a heat gun, most times that is not hot enough to get things done on a really stuck flywheel. Use a regular, home style, propane torch (not an oxy rosebud) and take that heat up a little more. You don't need to go crazy, just take it from a heat gun "10" to an 11 or 12 with the extra heat the torch can give.

MAKE SURE the puller bolts are fully engaged in the flywheel but no further to avoid damage to the stator. Get the flywheel puller good and tight pulling on the wheel. Small taps normally do not work on a really stuck wheel, a sharp hit will break things loose easier. Not a big baseball swing that is going to bend metal or damage the crank but a medium swing with a good snap at the end.

More heat, sharper hit.

HOWEVER - Before you mess with the flywheel anymore you need to be absolutely sure the fuel system/carbs are in perfect condition.

What year and type of machine is this?
 
It’s a 1995 XP, so I have the 717cc Rotax with dual carbs! And I’ll shoot for more heat when I get home!

Also, all New fuel lines and carb kits, I have case pressure and getting good fuel!
 
propane should do ok but mapp gas works quicker and would be my recommendation. The less time you put that much heat on these kinds of things the better. You do NOT want to heat soak the crank. Heat with the puller tightened up and then tap the puller with a steel hammer. It should pop off quite spectacularly.

Also, no bull about don't go deeper with the puller bolts, the stator coils are literally right under those holes if you look for them.

I would rule out whatever else i could before pulling one of those magnetos, they are one of the harder ones I have pulled
 
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Did you use original mikuni parts in the carb kits? Generic aftermarket kits DO NOT work.

A problem in the stator is rare, having it cause idling problems is, I've never heard of it.
 
You need enough heat to melt the red Loktite ( according to their site) that is on the tapered crankshaft end...and I just use your basic propane torch,,,and eventually, the fly wheel pops off.
 
I'd be careful with map gas in this situation you don't want to get it too hot.

This job would be 100 times easier if the motor is still in the ski.

I have run into an issue where my puller was actually bending and not getting enough torque to break the nut. Had to buy a much heavier duty puller.

A nice long breaker bar will be a big help as well.

Just know that it will probably be violent when the nut finally breaks. I have has a flywheel fly across my work bench and knock over a bunch of stuff on its way
 
With an air impact wrench and the correct puller you shouldn’t need any heat or hammer. FYI heat and a hammer can damage the magnets on the flywheel.
 
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