1995 Twin Speedster oil?

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Yes, the rabbit hole goes deep.
Also keep in mind Rotax makes the engines not Seadoo. The API-TC spec actually came for the Rotax aircraft and snowmobile engines before the watercraft as they found the high horsepower per cc needed a better oil than outboards.

Also good insight.... API-TC rating

And 2-stroke Seadoo’s also made more power per cc also.
 
because you can literally google what oil to use and find 4 billion discussions that usually end up as a s*it show with hurt feelings and puffy chests.

I use, and what I recommend to others to use, is Mystik JT4 synthetic. I use it on everything I own.. raves, no raves, RV, reeds, whatever.
100% percent agree with Dan. If you're going to run API 2 stroke oil, mystik jt4 full syn is the way to go. Buy the PWC if you can find it, or you can use the snowmobile oil. It is exactly the same. I have a mom & pop oil distributor in my area that sells a 4-gallon case for $80. Don't care to debate the benefits of API oil or tcw3 or mineral oil.
 
I've been using the Quicksilver PWC. It's purple. The Mystic is purple as well. I combined a little of both in a mason jar just now. They seemed to mix together just fine. I'm going to let it sit overnight to see if it does anything funky, like separating, spontaneously combusting, etc. :) I know this isn't an indicator of what they'll do once burned together, but it's an experiment to occupy my mind at least. My oil system is deleted so I don't have to worry about clogging lines and such.
Thanks for testing that out, I run the same exact quicksilver PWC oil. I will probably introduce it a little at a time to work it in
 
Thanks for testing that out, I run the same exact quicksilver PWC oil. I will probably introduce it a little at a time to work it in

Nothing crazy happened as of this morning. It didn't separate or anything. It's still homogenized.

At first when I saw purple in the Mystik bottle I wondered if they were the same oil with two brand names. But upon closer inspection I found that not to be true. They definitely have different consistencies. I'm not sure that "thinner" is the right term, but the Mystik seems that way for lack of a better term. When I pour it on a flat surface it spreads out faster and becomes more transparent than the QS.
 
Nothing crazy happened as of this morning. It didn't separate or anything. It's still homogenized.

At first when I saw purple in the Mystik bottle I wondered if they were the same oil with two brand names. But upon closer inspection I found that not to be true. They definitely have different consistencies. I'm not sure that "thinner" is the right term, but the Mystik seems that way for lack of a better term. When I pour it on a flat surface it spreads out faster and becomes more transparent than the QS.
Quicksilver definitely makes a mess that lingers. I am trying to get all the oil out of one of my engines right now(leaking rotary crank seals) and have sprayed quicksilver all over the place.
 
Is that that recommended spec cleaner per SeaDoo? Can you please cite your source?













JUST KIDDING! LOL.

Unfortunately no, just 29 years of experience.
I will warn you though, it will take the shine off the engine and exhaust parts if you use it full strength so I try to only use it on the inside of the hulls and plastic and use Simple Green on the engines.;)
 
It will also eat the paint off the engine if you forget to wash it off within a few minutes. Don't ask how I know....
 
Do you just spray it on, let sit, and then wash out? My bilge is embarrassing. :D
I usually mix it 50/50 with water and spray it anywhere that I get greasy hand prints. My hull is far from the shiniest so it absorbs grease like nothing else.

My bilge was disgusting and stunk when I got the boat and I cleaned it out with superclean undiluted full strength. Took a couple applications to cut through all that gunk. I found a bunch of stainless hardware in the process!
 
I spray it on everything except the engine and exhaust and let it sit for about 5 minutes full strength and simple green on the engine. Then use an electric pressure washer to blast it clean.

They come out really nice.
 
In the end the Mystic will serve you well and is the correct oil.
Be sure you drain out all the old oil and replace the inline oil filters before switching oil as most oils don't mix well with each other and can clog your oil system and trashing your engines.

So. . . do Mystic JT4 and XPS mix OK, or do you HAVE to drain and replace filters to make this switch? I have been running XPS (new 787 engine) but I like the Mystic price. Can I just switch or should I wait for winter for the change-over when it makes more sense to do the whole drain and clean cycle?
 
So. . . do Mystic JT4 and XPS mix OK, or do you HAVE to drain and replace filters to make this switch? I have been running XPS (new 787 engine) but I like the Mystic price. Can I just switch or should I wait for winter for the change-over when it makes more sense to do the whole drain and clean cycle?

engines cost a lot of money. oil is relatively cheap. do you want to risk clogging up your filters or oil lines if your mixture doesn't play well together? the only way to know for sure is to try it. if you don't want to take the chance as i wouldn't, perhaps it would be a great idea to drain out your "yesterday's oil" before you replace it with "tomorrow's".

by the way, academy sports has stopped selling Mystik oil. i can't seem to find it locally now. i just ordered a case of 4 synthetic gallons for about a hundred bucks. unfortunately, shipping was almost 50. at least my order should last a year or two and it keeps me from having to flush my system in order to go with Lucas.
 
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