1995 Speedster

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Kanto92

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Hey guys some of you may have already read my last posts about this boat but long story short I need to replace my port engine, i found a running 1995 gtx 650 with a bad hull but a working engine with good compression and a fresh carb rebuild. Is there anything different between the carbs and engine from the speedster to the gtx pwc?
 
There is a 650 and a 650X. The X has different parts that are not interchangeable and more horsepower so you need to make sure you get the correct 650.
 
I did see that when doing some research The name plate says 657x I’m just wondering if the electrical fuel and oil hook ups are all interchangeable.
 
Fuel and oil will be, not sure about electronics.

If you have a 2 engine boat you don’t want different horsepower or you will always be struggling to keep the boat going straight.
 
The 95 GTX should use the correct 657X. The electronics are the same between them, with the exception of the MPEM, which is specific to the boats. The carb setup appears to be the same, although the popoff is lower and the adjuster settings are slightly different. If you’re going to swap the motor, I would go ahead and order a back to OEM carb kit with the correct spring and new needle/seat from OSD.
 
Hey guys so change of plans the seadoo I looked at is garbage.... I’m getting my engine rebuilt, is there any way to test my oil and fuel lines while I’m waiting for the engine to come back? Don’t wont to blow up a brand new one this time hahaha
 
I would go ahead and change both of them while you’ve got the motor out... You’re talking about less than $40 worth of hose, and the only difficult part is getting to the fuel selectors. You’ve got to pull the throttle quadrant to get to them, but it’s really not that bad as long as the screws aren’t rusted...

If you have any grey tempo lines in the boat, they 100% need changed. If they are the black automotive type, you may be okay with just blowing them out with an air compressor, although I’d probably go ahead and just swap them.

The only oil lines that tend to fail are the little clear or painted lines that run to the intake manifold/RV cover. They are 3/32 Tyson lines, and you can just pick up a few feet from either a hobby store or possibly even your local Home Depot. They’re easy to change...
 
Awesome will do while I’m waiting for my engine. I’m having the engine and carbs rebuilt so I think I’ll just need to verify my lines are in good working order. Now can I just use a syringe and fill all the lines before connecting them back? Would I need to prime the carb maybe pour some oil in before the first start up ?
 
Well first, the oil lines are Tygon, not Tyson lines. I got hit with autocorrect there! I would add a capful of premix to the cylinders before the first start, but you’re going to be running premix for that first tank, so you’ll actually be over-oiling through the break in period. You really don’t need to prime the fuel lines, as they will fill pretty quickly while the engine is running on that initial bit poured in the cylinders, but you will definitely want to bleed the oil pump and be sure the small lines are filling up on the first start. Do a search for bleeding the oil pump, I believe there is a how-to somewhere here.

This is also an excellent time to clean your oil tank and swap to a API-TC rated oil if you’re not already running it. You don’t need to use synthetic in your boat, but definitely make sure it has that TC rating.
 
So if I bleed the oil pump that should take care of the air that got in during the time the engine was out ?
 
I’m going to run the first tank 40:1 , would the system work the air out of the oil lines during the first tank of gas ?
 
There will be air in the small tygon lines going from the pump to the manifold, but you want to get the air out of the lines that feed the intake side of the pump. You’ll open the bleed screw up until a steady stream of oil comes out, and then close it. The lines after the pump will fill themselves on the first start. I would definitely watch those lines fill though, as it’s a good visual indicator of how well the oil is flowing from the pump. Once the lines are full, it’s easy to see that the lines are full, but it’s hard to determine the flow through them.
 
Hey guys first of all thanks for all the input and advice it’s a real life saver when your trying to get the hang of the seadoo life. I’m trying to order new oil lines I feel that mine are no longer clear, no oil is pouring out but they are not transparent. I found that the larger hose is 12mm and the smaller one feeding in is 8mm. All the tygon lines I see are in imperial and I’m not sure if the 12 and 8mm is the id of od. Is Tygon the only hose you guys recommend for the larger oil lines ?
 
Unless you see something wrong with the 12mm and 8mm hoses, I’d leave them there. They don’t normally go bad... The clear tygon lines are the ones that seem to get brittle, and they are 3/32 size.
 
I only feel I need to change them because they’re not very clear anymore, and I’m not sure if there should be substantial amounts of oil coming out since they’re disconnected it really just drips out which concerns me I’m going to take the filter off today and change it
 
Go ahead and change the filter, but you should be fine with just changing the small lines. Once those are replaced, you’ll be able to see the oil pumping through on the first start. Once you fire the ski up the first time, you’re going to reach in while it’s idling and pull the oil pump lever over to the wide open position. You can literally watch the oil fill those lines then...
 
I just though about this, but it it the port or starboard motor that you’re replacing? The starboard engine is easier to see and reach the oil lines/pump than the port side... You’ll want an inspection mirror for sure on the port motor.
 
its the port, I feel the starboard is the harder one to see I’m trying to change the small tygon lines now and can’t see a thing. At least the port side faces the center !!!
 
But I am still concerned about the lack of oil coming out of the disconnected 8 and 12mm lines , I was expecting a lot of oil to pour out when they are below tank level
 
But I am still concerned about the lack of oil coming out of the disconnected 8 and 12mm lines , I was expecting a lot of oil to pour out when they are below tank level

Yeah, you should have more oil than just drips coming from those lines. You can buy the correct oil lines from OSD, or anywhere that carries tygon in 8mm and 12mm sizes. Some of the home improvement stores do carry tygon, but I don’t know that I’ve seen it in metric sizes there...
 
Hey all thanks for the help have ran 2 tanks of gas (premix) through the boat and all seems well switching to straight gas with a bit of oil. Anyone know what type of hose I should use for the clear line that goes from the top of the tuned pipe to the end right near the water box.
 
The factory lines are black for those lines. If you want them clear, I would try to find something with some silicone in it so that it doesn’t get brittle... It’s not a super high heat line, and it only flows water, so I personally wouldn’t worry too much about having any particular ratings on that hose.
 
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