1995 speedster help

[mikemorganne]

I recently purchased a 1995 speedster. I took it out on the water once I put new plugs in. All went well for about 15 mins. Engines were running about 7k rpm's. I shut it down and when restarted one motor would only get up to about 3500 rpm and seemed to be bogging down. By the time I got back to dock neither motor was wanting to run right. I brought it home, took of carbs and cleaned them, put new fuels lines on and cleaned spin off filters. I checked compression on all cylinders and they were all between 140-150 psi. each engine will fire up immediatley. I have not had it back in the water to check it and dont have a hose hook up so I can only run it a few seconds. One motor seems to smoke more than the other. Also I pushed each throttle lever full throttle for just a second and both only get to 3500 rpms. Is this normal for being out of the water? Also is there anything else I should do before heading back to the water? it is about a 45 min drive so anything I can do in advance would be great

 

[mikemorganne]

the reason I question about one smoking more than the other I dont want one engine to be oil deprived

 

[Jimimad]

I bought a 95 Speedster this year as well. Immediately I found this forum and started asking pretty much the same questions. You're not alone !

I'll address the smoke issue first. Typically, if the boat has been sitting for a week or more , its gonna smoke at startup. Oil settles in the cylinders from various sources ,ie: oil tank , mixed fuel, and burns up when you start up and run. Its a 2 stroke. Its gonna smoke at startup.
I start mine in the parking lot before putting it in the water and run it a few seconds just to get things warmed up and let a little smoke blow out before fogging the boat launch.
Starting out , most would advise to run 5-7 gallons of premix fuel in the gas tank , and keep checking the oil level in the direct injection oil tank to make sure its injecting , and this will have a bit more exhaust smoke than normal.
My Speedster has had the Direct Injection bypassed , so I am premixing fuel. 40:1. Thats one quart of oil to every 10 gallons of fuel.

3500 RPM out of the water is typically the rev limiter kicking in , while in Neutral. Its a feature that , as I understand , keeps the boat from getting away from you at the dock if the throttles are pushed accidentally.

As for the other problem youre having , Im going to defer to the experts on that one.

 

[voodoo]

If you still have the old hull seal/s with grease fittings give them a fresh pump so you do not lock the bearing and burn the tube out from the hull, this will be under the gray cover about the size of a 3lb coffee can, once you do this you can get more shore run time, the newer carbon seal driveshafts do not like the dry running at all, mark the oil tank and use the oil from the previous owner, mixing 2stroke is a gamble of making paste like jelly left on the outside of the jar - this jamms the spray nozzles but it can be cleaned out with kerosene and then choose a oil from a reliable source and stick with it - when you use all of your first bottle cut the front off and put it in the glove box.
From reading your fuel line service overview it sounds like you did your homework pretty well, 2 more items, the fuel control switch and the small screens inside the carbs, the switch has rubber parts that can get torn and block the ports and they are repairable if you want to save 25bux for new ones, the tiny baskets are the last stopping place then the steel gas can trash goes into the carbs and complete removal-cleanout-reset pop pressure is the cure if the spark plugs come out white after your next test run.

 

[mikemorganne]

I already greased those fittings and took the little screen filters and cleaned them when I took them out of carbs. How to I get to the fuel selector switches? are you talking about the 2 nobs that turn fuel on/off/reserve

 

[voodoo]

Sounds like you did your homework before dropping in the water regarding the hull seals, grease them about monthly unless you only go out a little, do it before you leave the shore - it is a big leak when it does. Anyway the fuel switch comes out of the hull and can be opened after removing the small screw on the side, there are 2 rubbers in there, each motor has one - new ones only about 25bux if too much corrosion from brackish water spills.
The rev limiter is engaged in nuetral, but you can make the wave machine - head for beach really fast then idle-reverse buckets-full throttle, the wave has arrived. Have fun.

 

[mikemorganne]

two more questions as I am waiting on my manual in the mail. Where is the wear ring and how do I check it.
Next, how to I flusk my coolant system. I ordered a coupler but dont see anywhere it screws on, and thought I read there isnt a place on the 1995 models and you have to cut and splice something in
I found one kit made by atlantis, looks like a fitting with o-ring that will push into wanter inlets to seal, just not sure if that would work

 

[mikemorganne]

ok I pulled out fuel selector valves and blew them out, they were clean with no obstructions. I went ahead and replaced oiler lines while I had carbs off. Put clear lines on so I can see if oil is in them. Bleed the system and they filled up. I guess next stop is testing on the water

 

[Jimimad]

two more questions as I am waiting on my manual in the mail. Where is the wear ring and how do I check it.
Next, how to I flusk my coolant system. I ordered a coupler but dont see anywhere it screws on, and thought I read there isnt a place on the 1995 models and you have to cut and splice something in
I found one kit made by atlantis, looks like a fitting with o-ring that will push into wanter inlets to seal, just not sure if that would work

"Where is the wear ring and how do I check it.

Right here . Its a black plastic ring , fitted into the pump .You can check it in place with a feeler gauge. Youre looking for very close tolerances between the impeller blade and the ring wall. You pull the pump to get it out , and it takes some effort from what Ive read to pull it and replace it. There are a few threads on this forum pointing to advice on how to pull it. Good luck !