1995 sp 587 not running correctly

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Cory880688

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Hello guys im new to the pwc forums. I recently picked up a 95 sp and 96 spi. Im having a really hars time getting the sp to run right. I have already changed the grey fuel lines with black ones, cleaned out the selector valve, rebuilt the carb minus the needle and seat. I tried everything ik how to do to set the carb and put it back to stock settings. Lets see how to put this. The ski will idle if i richen the mixture but will die when throttle is applied. If i start the ski with the throttle wide open it will get up and run wot forever but if i let it go back to idle the only way it will get back wot is if it dies and i start it with the throttle wide open. It really has me stumped at the moment. I did the lanyard pull at wot and checked the plugs its a good milk chocolate color and not wet. Hopefullu one of you guys can point me in the right direction.
 
It’s flooding if you have to hold it wide open to start. Leaking needle and seat. Did you use oem when u rebuilt it? The fuel selector also needs to be oem. When you cleaned the carb we’re you getting a good spray from the 3 small holes in the carb throat when you sprayed through the jets ?
 
Also u can’t clean the fuel selector. Replace it with oem. Did you reuse the black 80 gram spring under the fuel pump lever when u rebuilt. The springs from the kits are not the correct ones.
 
The kit it ordered said it was for the mikuni carb. It did not come with the needle and seat. The needle and seat looked to be in good shape and i didnt put any springs that came with the kit bc i read to just put the factory one back. I cleaned the selector valve and got all 3 passages cleared up. I do have a question about the return line. Are you suppose to be able to blow through this line and it be clear? I tried blowing through it and it pressured up and spit fuel back out.
 
Would a clogged return line cause the carb to flood out like its doing? Im thinking it running wot its burning all the fuel and when on idle the carb caint get rid of the excess fuel if the return is clogged up..does this make sence?
 
You need to verify the carb kits were actually genuine Mikuni, if the package didn't say Mikuni USA they are not. Also replace the needle and seat with new Mikuni.

You can't clean the selectors because the rubber inside gets destroyed from age and the cleaner and will suck air. Change it with a new OEM.
 
It came in a clear bag so im guessing its not a oem kit. Going to look for a oem kit and replace everything with it. Will look for a oem selector valve.
 
The kit i found was 72$ and has the needle and seat..does that sound right for the oem kit? First one i bought was about 30
 
Update..installed the new oem carb rebuild kit and oem fuel selector valve. Ski started on the hose and ran really well. Next day i went to start it again and it would not turn over. Pulled the battery and put on charge. Hooked up my big marine battery and same issue. Pulled the plugs and it spins over freely. Install plugs makes almost one turn and thats it. I dnt think its a solenoid issue bc it turns when the plugs are out. Maybe the starter? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Likely to be a starter or cables issue. Best bet is to pull the starter and rebuild it with a kit. You can also perform a voltage drop test across the cables.
 
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Just dropped the starter off at a local place in town and the guy bench tested it and something is wrong with it. I left it with them to figure out whats the issue
 
Also i read these engines are notorious for the seals going bad and leaking oil into the crank. If this happens when you pull the plugs oil should shoot out of the plug holes right? I dnt get any oil just a gas/oil vapor when cranking
 
The ski sat up for 13 years in a garage..the compression is 150 mag and 148 pto with throttle open. Inside the electric box is like brand new and nothing has ever got wet in there. I guess just from the age all the problems im having is normal just have to fix one at a time and hopefully get it going again
 
If your crank seals were leaking while sitting, you would see a noticeable drop in your oil tank. If you suspect this is the case, take reference as to how full the oil tank is and then check it every so often when sitting. Your plugs would be wet with oil too if enough oil leaked to hydro lock it.
As you said, from sitting, stuff just drys up, amd can become brittle. The starter may just have some pitting on the commutator, or weak springs on the brushes, anythings possible. As you said. Go thru everything and replace/repair as needed.
 
Update. Got the starter back and all the inside was corroded. Its fully rebuilt and back in the ski. That solved my problem and it started up fine on the hose waiting to go put it in the water
 
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