1994 gts won't rev past 1/4 throttle

[deeretrain]

My GTS seems to start OK but a s soon as I give it a little throttle it will bog right out. At first I found that my fuel bowl o ring was torn and leaking gas,so I replaced it thinking that was my problem but it still does the same thing.
Carb was rebuilt a year ago
Fuel lines were replaced and selector valve cleaned +filters
Also sniped the ignition wires back but the caps are a little rusty inside so I will replace them this week.
I'm also running a little premix since I had to put another engine in last season so it is still on its first precautionary tank.

After sinking $1200.00 into it last year and it still doesn't run really makes me feel like I shouldn't own jet skis
Any help would be appreciated

 

[griz400]

how did it run when you put it away last year ??? if it ran good, im guessin it maybe some old gas, or too much oil, you probably should throw a couple plus in it, then see, smell gas, see if smells like varnish

 

[deeretrain]

seemed OK! I only got it dack from the shop at the end of the season so it was never water tested(which pisses me off) but I emptied the tank and cleaned it out befor putting her to sleep for the winter months,so I put fresh gas in for the first ride added some oil and stabil. First ride it was boging out but I was able to get it up on plane and run it but it wouldn't maintain a steady throttle.than yesterday it not even go past 1/!4 throttle it just wants to bog out.could it be that those little holes in the Carb that's talked about be a little cloged

 

[- BiRkS_]

It is deffinatly a carburator issue. Take the ski out and when it starts to bog, pull the choke and see if the engine picks up speed. If so, plugged carbs, or the carbs are not tuned correctly (too lean). I beleive the factory settings are Low 1 turn out, H 0 turns. I bet the shop tuned the ski on the trailer and not in the water where the extra load from the water will change it completly.

Also, pull plugs and read them. if the insulator is white=bad (lean). if its black and sooty=rich. They should look light tan coloured.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... definitely a carb/fuel issue.

If it was ignition... it wouldn't be starting, and running OK at low RPM's.

So...

1) your rotary valve is out of time.
2) Pop-off is too high
3) Transition ports are plugged up
4) High speed check valve is leaking back.
5) you have a massive air leak

Do you have the stock flame arestor on the carbs?
Do you have any mods on the engine?
Have you pressure checked the fuel system to make sure there are no air leaks?

 

[deeretrain]

Dr. Honda
Everything is stock and no mods. And I believe there is no air leak in the system cause the tank holds a good amount of pressure,cause when I open the cap it will let out a good amount of air.unless your referring to the Carb? And yes I did try running it after I released the tank pressure and nothing changed.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... that built up pressure would say that there aren't any air leaks in the system.

I would start with pulling the carbs apart again. And... checking the rotary valve while they are off.

 

[griz400]

deertrain, here is a quick way to check rotary valve timing, while you have the carbs off, i dont mean to interupt tony, deertrain is a buddy, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULL5gfQs_UA this here video is a cut away motor that shows pretty good how it all works -- sbt sells the degree wheel also, pretty cheap -- http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1994-gtx/80-101.html also, i believe you rotary valve timing is 130 degrees -- (587 eng ??? correct ???)

 

[mikidymac]

If you do not want to wait to order a degree wheel just find out what your spec is for that model and print one from the manual on paper and cut it out. Cheap and easy.

 

[deeretrain]

Yeah I was hoping I wouldn't have to take the Carb off,cause it's no easy task. Is there a way to clean or check the transition ports without removing the Carb or could I add a good cleaner to the fuel just to try an easier approach without tearing things apart right of way?
On the rotary valve situation I,m not saying that it can't be nor do I think anybody is wrong but I'm putting my faith on the mechanic that did the engine change out for me that he set up the rotary valve properly cause he seems like a no BS.guy and talked to me alot about the valve cause the last engine seized a cylinder and messed up the rotary valve. So the second engine that was put in was a good.second hand one with all good internals. Do you think it,s worth calling the.guy to let him know it,s not right and he would honer his work and not charge me an arm and a leg to check over it again.