1994 GTS engine stuck -- engine or driveshaft?

[PorkChopsM]

So earlier in the summer I made a thread (1994 GTS Detailed troubleshooting after dying but still not working) about getting a new-to-me Seadoo up and running. You all were very helpful and we made many good memories on it. A few weeks ago I had to flip the Seadoo over to cut out a piece of rope I sucked up and immediately had big problems. Water got inside of the Seadoo and the injection oil hose popped off making a mess of the inside. I was able to get it running for a while and eventually when I went to start it to run in out on the lake all I got was a "thunk". After a lot of trouble shooting, my main question is if there is a good troubleshooting way of seeing if the motor is locked up or if it is a drive shaft problem? I originally thought the battery was dead or the starter was stuck because of the thunk when trying to start it, but after charging the battery and verifying it's charge and removing the starter/taking off the top of the engine the pistons aren't moving. They pistons aren't chipped or broken... one is at the top and one is at the bottom of their travel and I can't spin the driveshaft via the large metal circle under the plastic cover where the engine meets the driveshaft.

I did a lot of searching and it seemed like the starter was a good place to start. Now that it is ruled out, and did work with 12V, I need to verify if the engine is locked up or if it is somehow the driveshaft. Any recommendations on where to begin? Ideally I would like to disconnect the driveshaft and see if the engine moves freely before figuring out what to do.

Thanks!

 

[NickCawks]

Id say they only sure fire way to know is to pull the drive shaft out of the pto.

By that point you should know if it is the pump and you can try to spin the pto by hand to tell if it's the motor

 

[PorkChopsM]

Thanks for the help. Is there a guide on how to do this quickly for troubleshooting? I've reviewed the manual and the pump servicing looks very tedious.

 

[Gasngo]

I know this is common knowledge but the unit is direct drive. If the pump has damage or obstruction then it could create a no turn situation. If the motor is seized or has some major internal damage it wont turn over. Can you get under the ski and look into the intake side of the pump and see anything obvious. Grab wiggle what ever you can do. Do you have the splash cover over the PTO ? Can you remove it and get a hold of what I would call balancer and get a grip to see what kind of movement you can get. Not sure of the exacts but if the pump is like the others 4 nuts and a couple connection points and tug it out. Once it clear theres nothing in the way. Either the motor turns or it wont. Taking the plugs out will make it easier to turn. Heck you might pull a plug and see all kinds of junk all over it and that might be a sign you have internal damage.
Good luck

 

[AKnarrowback]

The manual describes how to remove the pump better than we can. Not that we don't know how to do it, but we would just be repeating the description of what you already read and have the pictures for already.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Just don't hit the pump with a metal hammer. Sometimes the pump us sealed using silicone and gentle pressure pushing on the sides will work it loose but it takes a few minutes.

You do not have to drain the pump oil to pull the pump off.

 

[PorkChopsM]

Thank you. I will be doing that this weekend. Wish me luck!

 

[AKnarrowback]

It is not difficult. The toughest part can be getting the pump free of the hull if it was sealed with silicone which was the standard practice for your year machine. Gradual pressure over time will stretch the silicone until it releases hitting it will not help. DO NOT pry on the tabs where the reverse gate springs loop onto the aluminum pump body, the tabs break easy. The "new" standard practice is a neoprene ring seal with an adhesive backing that gets stuck onto the ride shoe, zero resistance when pulling things apart and is trouble free. The neoprene ring is available all over eBay and Amazon, order one up if your machine doesn't have one already. Maybe $10 at the most.

 

[BucksNasty]

Nylon rope is a nasty thing. When small amounts of it get wedged in a tight spot and then heated up they fuse when they cool.

 

[Poormanracing]

Make sure you remove the water intake hose and the two bailer hoses.on those old skis there is no plastic pump shoe there matted right to the hull.pull pump and see if motor or pump frozen

 

[PorkChopsM]

I'm stuck on getting the starter back on. I was able to remove it under the exhaust manifold but getting it back on is proving very challenging, even with the right length extensions. I'm try to remove the exhaust and can't wrangle off the rubber hose connecter between the exhaust and the water catch can. It's tough working in these tight spaces!

 

[AKnarrowback]

I'm stuck on getting the starter back on. I was able to remove it under the exhaust manifold but getting it back on is proving very challenging, even with the right length extensions. I'm try to remove the exhaust and can't wrangle off the rubber hose connecter between the exhaust and the water catch can. It's tough working in these tight spaces!

Extensions, gel seal filling the socket to hold the bolt as you gently feed the entire mess under the exhaust. It takes patience, time, luck....

 

[Brewey]

So earlier in the summer I made a thread (1994 GTS Detailed troubleshooting after dying but still not working) about getting a new-to-me Seadoo up and running. You all were very helpful and we made many good memories on it. A few weeks ago I had to flip the Seadoo over to cut out a piece of rope I sucked up and immediately had big problems. Water got inside of the Seadoo and the injection oil hose popped off making a mess of the inside. I was able to get it running for a while and eventually when I went to start it to run in out on the lake all I got was a "thunk". After a lot of trouble shooting, my main question is if there is a good troubleshooting way of seeing if the motor is locked up or if it is a drive shaft problem? I originally thought the battery was dead or the starter was stuck because of the thunk when trying to start it, but after charging the battery and verifying it's charge and removing the starter/taking off the top of the engine the pistons aren't moving. They pistons aren't chipped or broken... one is at the top and one is at the bottom of their travel and I can't spin the driveshaft via the large metal circle under the plastic cover where the engine meets the driveshaft.

I did a lot of searching and it seemed like the starter was a good place to start. Now that it is ruled out, and did work with 12V, I need to verify if the engine is locked up or if it is somehow the driveshaft. Any recommendations on where to begin? Ideally I would like to disconnect the driveshaft and see if the engine moves freely before figuring out what to do.

Thanks!

Stupid question but I sucked up a rope as my seadoo wouldn’t start got under it took the grate off cut the rope off and found a stone jamming the prop all good now , just a thought

 

[AKnarrowback]

Even slight dents I the leading edge of the impeller can set off the performance of the machine on the low end/holeshot/ take off. If you notice the motor reving while trying to get up in step consider pulling the impeller out and doing a touch up.

Rarely does a rock jammed I the impeller or pump not do some damage. Good thing is small blemishes can be done on a bench with a file and some patience.

I put a knife edge on all three blades of my 94 xp and did notice a difference in less engine reving under heavy loads.