RocketFox650
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Low speed set screw- 1¼ turns out from "slight resistance"? It's screwed into a spring... Is there something a little more concrete as a starting point? Or should I just run it a bit rich and slowly adjust?
1¼ Out From What?
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RocketFox650
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Thanks mate. I kinda figured that's what the answer was going to be, but I wanted to put it out there. What I meant about the spring is that the Service Manual literally just says "turn in until you feel slight resistance, then back out 1¼ turns" and it's tightening down on a spring, I feel a "slight resistance" every turn. Is there a better shop manual than the Seadoo ones? I can share the ones I use, but there's a lot of places they seem unnecessarily vague like that.
RocketFox650
Member
Huh. That sucks. Getting actual info, like PSI on something, or temperature ratings for materials is already a pain. There's just flat out a lot of stuff it never gets into other than "buy a new one". Thanks for confirming that carb one for me tho. The manual wasn't helpful. It basically just says "don't touch the top end screw" as well. I need to go out tomorrow and try to tune, but I've been trying to replace all my lines.
The seadoo factory manual is the best there is but it's written for trained mechanics so it won't walk you trough every step.
If you have a stock seadoo there really isn't any "tuning" if everything is correct they will run great on the stock screw settings.
If you have a stock seadoo there really isn't any "tuning" if everything is correct they will run great on the stock screw settings.
RocketFox650
Member
Hey Miki, can you double confirm this again for me? I've been trying to dial mine in all day and getting kind of inconsistent results, so I decided to run them in and back out to start over. I found my MAG was set about ¾ out and looking pretty good, but it struggles a little and seems a little fouled at the 3-4k/20-30mph range, PTO side was like 2⅛ out, and seems a little fouled. I'd gotten to the point I almost wanted to adjust one at a time by how it was running.
But anyways, my question- it's 1¼ from STOP right? Not from difficult to turn in further? I was turning my one in to factory and it stopped but it broke free and was a little harder to turn in. I'm not talking about screwdriver or reefing it in, I was just using my finger tips on the spokes of the adjuster, but it did def feel harder to turn in. I may not have noticed it so much if I'd been using a tool. It just seemed significant and I'd rather ask twice on this one.
Before I set the screws in a carb servicing,,,I take them off,,.remove the "O" ring, remove the washer that secures the "O" ring,,and the spring,,,,and then gently remove any crud on the threads of the screw,,,I also thread the screw into its orifice to see that it "seats" properly,,then I put a light coating of grease on the threads and the "O" ring,,
,when you reseat the screw, it should thread in easily and seat/stop easily and firmly.,,,if you are not replacing the "O" rings,,,take note of their taper for reinstallation..the pilot and high speed screws should rotate easily on their "t" s by hand,,,you should not need a screw driver,
,when you reseat the screw, it should thread in easily and seat/stop easily and firmly.,,,if you are not replacing the "O" rings,,,take note of their taper for reinstallation..the pilot and high speed screws should rotate easily on their "t" s by hand,,,you should not need a screw driver,
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