03 GTX supercharged troubleshoot

[veggin]

Hi there! I'm new to seadoo and this is my first post. I've called about 25 shops and it seems no one in Ohio can get me serviced for 3+ weeks, so I want opinions for a trip in a week or so..I've been lurking around the forums and decided to make my own thread.

My 2 stroke is idling bad but I'm hoping spark plugs will fix that, but the 4-TEC supercharged is a bit more complicated. Here goes:

We bought these off family who had taken pretty good care of them and wasn't aware of any problems.

We have changed the oil and topped off the coolant to the correct amount. After running the old gas out, it seemed to be running great. Fast forward 2 weeks later, back on a lake, ran well for about an hour. BEEP, the check engine message reads on the gauges. Now the engine won't allow itsself past 5,000 RPMS Within that 5k rev limit it seems to idle well and such, it just wont go any faster. (i think limp mode is less rpm than that?) I can turn it off for a minute, turn it back on, and have another 5-10 minutes of play before the problem returns. Other possible symptoms: Sometimes a small amount of white exhaust smoke in the water. Starting out of the water yields a light clanky noise that apparently isn't from just being out of water. Any input is appreciated and welcomed. karma is good. Thanks.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Sounds like it's going into limp mode and being rev limited down to 5K rpm's. Did you get the P code from the display? There should be an error code starting with the letter P. Once you get the P code you can google it and find everywhere anybody else has talked about that error code and what it took to resolve the issue.

You topped off the engine oil... to where on the stick? It should be right in the *middle* of the bend in the stick when cold. Overfilling will hurt the engine and inhibit maximum rpm's (but not down to 5K rpm's that sounds like your limp mode kicking in to me).

Also when were the spark plugs last changed these 4TEC engines are bad about eating the plugs they may look ok when you take them out for inspection but they won't spark right under compression nobody really knows why but the spark plugs need to be changed annually to insure proper performance.

Oh and also you might want to go ahead and drain the coolant system completely and refill, the antifreeze is only good for 3 years roughly then it should be changed sounds like this one may never had had a coolant change either!

Lastly how many hours does it have on it and has the supercharger been rebuilt at all? It has a 100 hr rebuild interval, and you really want it to be rebuilt if they blow apart they do so INSIDE of your engine and cause all kinds of damage it can cost more than you paid for the watercraft!

- Michael

 

[veggin]

Sounds like it's going into limp mode and being rev limited down to 5K rpm's. Did you get the P code from the display? There should be an error code starting with the letter P. Once you get the P code you can google it and find everywhere anybody else has talked about that error code and what it took to resolve the issue.

You topped off the engine oil... to where on the stick? It should be right in the *middle* of the bend in the stick when cold. Overfilling will hurt the engine and inhibit maximum rpm's (but not down to 5K rpm's that sounds like your limp mode kicking in to me).

Also when were the spark plugs last changed these 4TEC engines are bad about eating the plugs they may look ok when you take them out for inspection but they won't spark right under compression nobody really knows why but the spark plugs need to be changed annually to insure proper performance.

Oh and also you might want to go ahead and drain the coolant system completely and refill, the antifreeze is only good for 3 years roughly then it should be changed sounds like this one may never had had a coolant change either!

Lastly how many hours does it have on it and has the supercharger been rebuilt at all? It has a 100 hr rebuild interval, and you really want it to be rebuilt if they blow apart they do so INSIDE of your engine and cause all kinds of damage it can cost more than you paid for the watercraft!

- Michael

thanks for the response michael. I didn't top off the oil, My uncle and I used the pump and changed the oil out. I haven't tried spark plugs yet but that would seem like almost a miracle fix. Ill check the hours on the seadoo and return. The code isnt telling me which one. I assumed thats why I needed to take it in and have it read. All it says is MAINT. or something like that. Is there a button i can press to show the P code?

EDIT: 114 hours. Im doubting a rebuild has been done

 

[Michael211_2000]

I understand you changed the engine oil (and filter right?).... I was asking where on the dipstick you topped it off to?

I'm not real familiar with your model some model's automatically show the P code (mine for instance) other's require you to press buttons on the handlebar... if you have a Mode button press it 5 times in a row while the Maint light is lit, it should then show the P code that triggered the light.

Also many models automatically trigger the Maint light at 100 hrs of operation because the supercharger has to be rebuilt at 100 hrs and then the maint reminder has to be reset by the BUDS system at a dealership so it won't trigger the light for another 100 hrs. If there is no P code then it's just telling you that scheduled maintenance on the supercharger is overdue.

ps. All jetpumps emit a light clanky noise when run out of the water. There's no load on the impeller and it shakes back-n-forth just a little bit as the engine turns it with no water to press against. The noise is gone once you put it back into the water.

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

Take new spark plugs and put them in. Get the correct ones from a local dealership or pull 1 out and take it to local auto parts either way. The Maint light may be lit because you're past the 100 hr mark to service the supercharger. You NEED to have the supercharger rebuilt if it fails it does so inside your engine crankcase and bearings and metal all go into the engine where they wreak havoc!

- Michael

 

[veggin]

I understand you changed the engine oil (and filter right?).... I was asking where on the dipstick you topped it off to?

I'm not real familiar with your model some model's automatically show the P code (mine for instance) other's require you to press buttons on the handlebar... if you have a Mode button press it 5 times in a row while the Maint light is lit, it should then show the P code that triggered the light.

Also many models automatically trigger the Maint light at 100 hrs of operation because the supercharger has to be rebuilt at 100 hrs and then the maint reminder has to be reset by the BUDS system at a dealership so it won't trigger the light for another 100 hrs. If there is no P code then it's just telling you that scheduled maintenance on the supercharger is overdue.

ps. All jetpumps emit a light clanky noise when run out of the water. There's no load on the impeller and it shakes back-n-forth just a little bit as the engine turns it with no water to press against. The noise is gone once you put it back into the water.

- Michael

I don't know if i can run it out of the water until the light comes on, But I just got a call back from one of the shops that can get me in on monday! Its such a relief. And the sound out of the water is good news as well. I will probably get the supercharger rebuilt next week along with a full tune up while I'm at it. I'm more of a car mechanic haha. I appreciate the help and will be back soon to check in with the progress of what the mechanic has to say. I just got off the phone with him and he said my particular model only has a certain problem with an oil pressure switch sensor? and thinks thats more than likely the problem. Hopefully the repair wont go into the 4 digits..
I'll post what the final diagnosis is to help other people that may run into something like this

 

[Michael211_2000]

One last thing comes to mind... do you know if your supercharger is actually working? Take the intake air hose off the supercharger push it aside and reach into the supercharger with your fingers and try to turn it... if you CAN turn it by fingertip then it isn't working anymore!

There are slip washers that allow it to slip when it starts to overload on boost and needs relief, there are spring washers that hold tension on the slip washers so they work right, all that can wear out over time and start to slip full time then you have no more supercharger boost so your rpm's will drop down. It's unlikely you have lost any bearings in there yet, but the longer it's run past 100 hrs the more likely the bearings will finally fall apart and into the engine.

There also was that problem the oil pressure switch going bad I've read about that before, to confirm it you'd need the P Code though. At 110 hours I kinda think it could be just the maint reminder going off as you're at that point where it's supposed to return to the dealership for the supercharger to be rebuilt... I think there's a 10 hour maintenance point then a 100 hr maintenance point, which puts you right at that spot where the light would be triggered now.

Glad to hear you can get it in to be checked next Monday though. Would definitely like to hear what they find. Did you happen to run those rpm's by him to see if he thought that was in fact limp mode being activated?

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

Oh yeah don't run it out of the water for more than a few seconds without running water to the flush port... the exhaust will overheat otherwise and things start to melt! Even on flush port water limit run time out of water to like 5 minutes or less as the carbon seal starts to heat up without water.

Regards!

- Michael

 

[veggin]

He didnt mention limp mode and I told him everything I told you. He is a certified seadoo- tech and I asked if the 100 hour reminder for the supercharger was a possibility and he said no. Im guessing its because it probably would't put a rev limiter on it for just a regular maintenance time? Anyways I'm sure the supercharger works. I had it on the lake a week ago. You can hear it, and boy does it fly.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Yeah but it only flies up to 5K rpm's now it should go up to ~7.8K rpm's and then it would REALLY be flying! That's why I thought to point out that possibililty.

- Michael

 

[veggin]

sorry if I wasn't clear, but I can turn off the seadoo for a minute and then back on and it does go to full rpm 7.8k, 10 minutes later, back to 5k limit. Its really fast but the little 2 stroke is still faster lol

 

[Michael211_2000]

Ahhhh! Yeah I did not understand that it takes 10 minutes for it to go into what has to be "limp" mode then. Must be a faulty sensor in that case, nothing else would be that consistent.

If you want to go a little faster fill your ride plate bolt hole recesses with marine epoxy and sand them flush... the recesses are like 6 little anchors holding you back. Also fill the ride plate seam with black RTV silicone and do the same for your intake grate bolts. The undersides of our 4TEC SeaDoo's are a lesson in how not to be hydrodynamically clean I swear!

I also really like the handling improvement of mine's R&D Aquavein intake grate it really turns tight and drives like it's on rails. It also more evenly loads the pump by sending water to the top of the impeller giving better thrust and slightly higher top end speed as a result. The OEM intake grate was nothing like this!

- Michael

 

[veggin]

Ahhhh! Yeah I did not understand that it takes 10 minutes for it to go into what has to be "limp" mode then. Must be a faulty sensor in that case, nothing else would be that consistent.

If you want to go a little faster fill your ride plate bolt hole recesses with marine epoxy and sand them flush... the recesses are like 6 little anchors holding you back. Also fill the ride plate seam with black RTV silicone and do the same for your intake grate bolts. The undersides of our 4TEC SeaDoo's are a lesson in how not to be hydrodynamically clean I swear!

I also really like the handling improvement of mine's R&D Aquavein intake grate it really turns tight and drives like it's on rails. It also more evenly loads the pump by sending water to the top of the impeller giving better thrust and slightly higher top end speed as a result. The OEM intake grate was nothing like this!

- Michael

sounds interesting ill for sure look into this. And yes my gtx needs a little boost in speed =]

 

[Stuart310]

I have the same problem with my 2003 GTX 4tec. They replaced the oil sensors and the problem is still there. My ski has 24 hours on it. I was told today that there was a recall on the oil pump. They say the pump has grooves in it and causes low oil pressure. They said he supercharger, oil pump and oil sensors were all subject to a recall.

It goes into limp mode until it warms up. Then it will intermittently beep and go into limp mode.

Stuart

 

[Duane72]

It definitely sounds like an oil sensor/pressure issue. I have seen sensors go because the fluid they are in gets changed. Not that they go because of it, but like a thermostat that works perfect and when you change the coolant for whatever reason it starts sticking. No explanation why this happens, but it does sometimes. If you changed the oil it could have just been enough of a "jar" to the sensors to put them over the edge if they were going bad. I know I know... sounds far fetched, but it does happen if the sensors are on the verge sometimes. Run the ski warm, let it idle for 30 seconds, shut it down, wait 30 seconds, then check the oil. Should be between the marks or "bends" on the dipstick. If you check it cold or right after shutdown it can give you false readings letting you run it low or making you overfill it. These 4 tecs are picky motors, but they'll last a long time if you maintain them right. And they run like a bat our of hades when they are!

Oh, and you should be able to pull your own codes this way... put the key on the post. when the display comes up press "set" 5 times. it will show you a "P" followed by a number. Write that down or remember it. Press "mode" and it will skip to the next code or say "end" if there are no more codes. Press "mode" again and it will return to normal display function.

The "maint" comes on every 100 hours on these machines. SeaDoo calls for a supercharger rebuild every 100 hours (but the maint is reminder for several other maint things as well... should be in your manual). The ceramic washers are only said to last that long, but they have been known to blow out much earlier. I would HIGHLY suggest investing in a supercharger rebuild if it hasn't been done. Anything over 100 hours is borrowed time according to specs. I personally would change them out for the metal ones as soona s I could after buying any seadoo with the ceramic ones still in it.

 

[mjf80]

Did the mechanic find the problem? I have the same ski with the same problem

 

[veggin]

Did the mechanic find the problem? I have the same ski with the same problem

Yes I do believe it's been solved. I haven't personally had it out since then, but my family did and I heard no complaints. It was the oil pressure sensor or something like that. Sorry its been a while. He said it was a common issue. May have stated it above. It makes perfect sense, because going into that limp mode would help protect the engine if it "wasn't" getting the oil it needed. It was a cheap fix.

Also: Duane72 nailed it. The supercharger rebuild is a must-do. 100 hours max! That cost About $300 in parts and labor for the supercharger kit

 

[door54]

Also: Duane72 nailed it. The supercharger rebuild is a must-do. 100 hours max! That cost About $300 in parts and labor for the supercharger kit

If you got a full upgrade rebuild kit and labor for 300 you did very well.